Sonic

has anybody here tried this muffler? how do you like it? how did it sound? i heard from sombody that manages a independantly owned exaust shop, that the best "glass-pack" type muffler i could get would be a twister. i'm planning in getting a new 2 1/2" custum exaust system done soon. btw, my car is a 240z mostly stock, soon to be built for autox. here is the website: http://shop.ivalueinternet.com/bigexhaust/index.cfm/action/productdetail/product_id/551.htm thanks

New or used, I want the ones that have a pollished lip! also, you don't have to be in Sandiego county just close enough to get there via car! If you are interested in selling, email me at: sonic2k@nethere.com with info. thanks

Well I am running rebuilt (by ztherapy) 1970 su carbs. When I first got the car, the electric pump wasn't wired up, so I just took it off and ran a line directly to the tank. I was having the same problem before so I thought that if I remopved the electric pump that it would solve it. Than I got a new pump, same problem, than I blew out the lines, with an air compressor. still, nothing improved. So I just put the electric pump back on and wired it up. it runs great and the fuel filter (in the stock location) fills up all the way, But I still see bubbles!!!! The thing is I don't want to depend on an electric pump! shouln't a 73 240z mechanical pump be sufficient enough for round tops and a good radiator and cooling system? The car origonally had a frigi king a/c system, that I removed, if that helps any? I also removed all emission control. did the frigi king intall people, that hacked up my car to install the a/c, do anything to the fuel lines by chance?? sorry about the long message! anybody else have this problem?

I have had this problem since i bought my 73, 240z. When I have the engine running i can see tiny bubbles coming out of the base of my clear stock fuel filter. Under a load, the fuel level will fall below the filter 'sump' and the pump will suck air. I have replaced all of the rubber lines, filters, fuel pump, and checked the lines for damage. Still not resolved! The only way I keep my car from dying going up hills or when under load for long periods, is a temparery electric pump. What could be causing this?

you may just want to check the rotors to see if they are warped. my car does the exact same thing once in a while when i get on the brakes when turning left. it make that funky squeal! i just don't have the time to get them resurfaced!

it could be the: brake rotor is warped, the bearings going bad, wheel lost balance weights, tire going bad, loose lugs, or worn-out, old rack bushings but most likely related to the brakes or bearings.

i got a 240z when i turned 17. i had a minimum wage job, and school. the car cost me $2,800 and i paid for it in full on the fourth of July. with money i saved for a year. getting it to run reliably was expensive, but well worth it! i probebly had less time to work on it(1 to 2 hours or less a week). borrow the caprice, save your money, get the fairlady back on the road later! now ive had this car for over a year, and its the most reliable car out of 3 others that are newer at my house. but it looks like you want to give up! i bet my car will out live your caprice in reliability and, its value will continuosly go up, the caprice will go down. what are you going to do when your caprice overheats on the freeway? or the alternator dies, or when time comes to smog it? ALL CARS COST MONEY TO MAINTAIN. do you know when a rod throws, or the timing belt falls off destroying your engine! life is full of surprises!!!! besides, isn't this car what you've always wanted? if so is somthing you can spend the extra cash on>> "and I'd like to keep my paychecks to spend on stuff I've always wanted" i will do just about anything to keep my DATSUN 1973 240z! it seems that you won't!

the polygon model looks almost the same as the one in tokyo xtreme racer 2 on the SEGA Dreamcast. the 240z is the fastest car in the game, out of over 200 rice burners, porshes and the viper, when fully modded! notice it's not copywrited because of the missing datsun badge in front. also the name datsun is spelled incorrectly on the back of the car. but, other than that, its a perfect match.

i have a 73 240z with the smog removed, 71 su carbs, and just tuned up and syncronized. i have the same problem, most often when going uphill. it seems runs fine when not under a load. sounds like i'm no getting enough gas to one of the carbs; like its running on three cylinders. and there is air bubbles going out of the new nissan fuel filter when i pull over to check the engine. what should i do?

i have a shield, 71 carbs, a tune-up, $-row radiator and,,,,new filters. i think its my coil. could that be it?

also. . . .i use 92 octane gas!

i was driving my 1973 240z up a winding medium grade highway, on a hot day (about 85 to 90 degrees ferenhight)in S.California; then it lost power and the rpms were becomig irregular, going up and down! i put it in 1st gear but that didn't seem to help! i got worse when i pushed on the gas. it also didn't help when i put on the choke i all the gages read mostly normal 'cept for the engine temp. was about 75% but it seemed normal since it was a hot day. later when it cooled down i reparked it and it seemed fine? in case you need to know when i purchased this car the original '73 carbs. were swiched with '71 carbs. and the smog junk was removed, mostly, and everything else is stock(it was left in a garage for 20 years with 90,000 miles, by the origonal owner) i got it from the second owner who only had it for 4 months after replacing the muffler(afer it fell off) and swiching the carbs,and cutting off the smog. has no rust, good paint job and almost perfect interior, 'cept for the cracks in the dash! i'm getting carried away! any way....... i think the problem could be vapor lock, but i'm not positive! how would i fix this problem? P.S. most of the fuel line isilation is still there, 'cept for about 1 and a half inches directly in front of the cam.