panchovisa

Don't know the torque specs, but it is not high. Remember the bolts are going into aluminum and you don't want to pull them out! On old engines I'm not a big fan of trying heavy detergents in the oil, where do the bits of varnish/crud end up????? Rebuild costs? Depends how much you do, how much machine work, what parts you end up replacing. Get rid of the oil leak first, you may just find you don't need a rebuild yet.

Strange that the valve cover would leak on the "up hill side". Of course the best thing to do would be to replace gasket. Could have been damaged during polishing. Also be sure nothing has blocked oil return holes in top of head and that breather in valve cover is not blocked by polishing crud. Check that threads for valve cover bolts have not pulled up from head (counter sink them slightly). Tighten bolts in a pattern a little at a time (don't over torque).

Seerex, I've had the same problem with one of my carbs. If the car isn't used for awhile the fuel evaporates from the bowls and the floats drop. When fuel is supplied again to carbs one float sticks as if there is no fuel, and gas flows from overflow vent. I then pull the cover off of stuck bowl and free the stuck float and reinstall.

Dattozed, Like Greyghost said my car was sitting at a full race height. I need to get an idea of what height works in real life street driving. My suspension (old and new) was fully adjustable, and I can set the ride height anywhere I want to. BUT, the main thing is that the front shocks have only 5.81" (the rears have an inch more) of STROKE. The urethane bump stops steal some of that travel. I need to know what ride height WORKS for the street/autocross so that I can properly place the shocks in new shortened tubes SO THAT AT RIDE HEIGHT I HAVE EQUAL TRAVEL ON BUMP AND REBOUND. With the coil overs I can set ride height anywhere, BUT once the struts are shortened the shocks travel is locked in. I know that most people probably have their shocks touching the bottom of tube. It maybe that to do what I want there might have to be a 1/4" to 1" spacer under shock BEFORE I section tube. I really NEED a good ride height dimension to set my parts up correctly. The front cross member and the very rear cross member are easy places to measure without to mush confusion. Good dimensions to a 1/4" would be appreciated (along with information about what obsticals you have trouble negotiating). Thanks, Pancho

I'm re-doing my full suspension and I want some reference. Previously my car was extremely low (1 3/4" to front cross member) which caused problems for street driving. I want to raise the car, but not too much! What do others have from bottom of front cross member to ground, and from bottom of rear cross member to ground???????? I'm thinking from 2 1/2'', to 3 1/2", would be in the streetable range for the front. The back I haven't even measured yet. I want to make it into driveways and over speed bumps (with care), but I want the low look also. Thanks, Pancho

I take it HP stands for high performance? Most "performance" strut inserts are made for cars that have been lowered. Contact the manufacturer and find out if their strut inserts are for shortened strut tubes. If yes, ten you will have to "section" out a portion of strut tube. Do a search on this site for shortened struts.

Thats rice.