panchovisa

Pusher, Go back to the beginning of this thread. I told you that if the three pieces that make up the rear cross member have been moved sideways it would f-up the toe settings. Maybe it's time now to loosen some of the cross member bolts and knock stuff back where it belongs?

Pusher, I believe your talking about the gland nut that retains the shock insert in the strut tube? If you broke off the hex, than the shock insert is still in the tube right? Find a large nut at Home Depot/ hardware store. It should be small enough across the flats to allow welding to what remains of gland nut, but you may have to drill out inside of nut to fit over shock rod (leave some clearance). The taller nut (even after laying a weld against the flats) will give you more to grab onto than the thin hex of the gland nut. Try heating the strut tube (to expand it) and cooling just the gland nut in water ( to shrink it) before wrenching. Good luck.

Mr Camoflage, thanks for you translated the. Race three x's, 3x's lace victory! Max ponypower to thee.

I also clean all my bolts. What I use is a Scotch-Brite wheel on my bench grinder. It is a medium grade so it doesn't remove material. I don't believe that you can completely remove the cadmium plateing this way. Yes, the color changes from "gold" to a "chrome" color, but unless you remove .0005" worth of plating it's still plated. Cadmium is a "chrome" colored material by itself, the "gold cadmium" plating is a coloration for asthethics. Regardless of how much Cad is still on the bolt, the finish is so much smoother that there is little for rust to start it's attack from. I also clear coat the bolts to protect the luster and it's easy to re-touch after your wrench slips! I have reconditioned rusted bolts to shining beauties this way. See my gallery, the big bolts to the inner rear a-arm pivots were restored this way.

I asked the same question and got some good feedback. For your trany SWEPCO 201 gets rave reviews. Here is like to forum: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12080

I also believe that the VERY BIG sloted screw is where you adjust the pinion gear. I'd have to look in my manual. You should get one (or visit the library) for your car. Anybody sure about where to adjust pinion to rack clearance?

sblake, where do you think the $590.00 "re-manufactured" (wiped off with degreaser) came from??? The previous mark????

Hold on a second! I think your jumping the gun a bit. "The rack and pinion was leaking"????? The rack doesn't hold oil, just grease. If you over fill it, it will leak out. Not a problem, you know it's lubed! They were scaming you and you didn't fall for (all) of it. Don't try to outsmart a liar, because you base your decision upon their lie. Just go to a good shop and get it aligned. Keep the rack.

The races I like most nowdays are the Vintage cars. To see the famous cars I saw and/ or read about in my pimple-faced days is the best! GT-40's, Ferrari Daytonas, 60's and 70' Trans-Am racers, 917's, McLarens, Lolas, and the list goes on. And these cars aren't on parade, they whip the snot out of them!

Man I would love to be there! I've got the wifes family coming from Cancun at that time though. I don't think ditching my guests would go over to well. Next year I've got to plan things out better.

Ed, you sound like your an old timer like me. Yea, Formula 1 back in the 1970's was fantastic! I loved it, know why? Because except for Ferrari and Matra all the cars had the same engine (Cosworth DFV). They were basicly kit cars built by tuners. Sounds low-tech, and by todays standards it was. BUT, what the homemade "specials" lacked in sophistication actually made for better racing! Back then it was driver vs driver and the battles were legendary. Today its constructor vs constructor with the drivers plugged into the car like another programable chip! I would like to see F-1 go back to simple cars driven by stars. Today the cars are the stars and the drivers parade until the checkerd flag. Bernie keeps saying he can't figure out why NASCAR is so big. The reason is because the cars are secondary to the drivers. When he finally understands then F-1 will return to glory.

Tomohawk, don't think your going to find ANY manual transmissions shifted by cable. Automatics yes, manuals no. I've had Hondas, VW's, Chryslers all with front wheel drive and manuals. All have had rods and bellcranks. Maybe some example from Suzuki (motorcycle experience with cables, though Honda has same and uses rods) or Daewo (bicycle experience?) might just be the exception. I just wonder how you think cables could be an advantage over rods for shifting a manual? Besides, the Z has one of the best linkages you'll ever find, stock.

Open wheel race cars are ultimate tool of wheel to wheel combat. No 18 point, 1,000 lb Brooklyn Bridges to save you from your mistakes. Make a mistake and get new bone grafts. I don't make these comments lightly, I'm not interested in seeing my HERO's get hurt. I only mean that open wheel racers are probably (by necessity) more talented in the art of driving at the limit of human skill. Now I don't want to enflame others passions for their favorite type of racing. I love all racing from local dirt track stockers to hydroplane and air races. Heck, I even watch motorcycles, off-road, snowbobiles and pinewood derby races. But, high powered open wheel racers are the pinnicale of motorsports. I personally would rather watch a USAC Silver Crown wingless race on a 1 mile clay track then a Formula ! race. I'd rather see the "national" open wheel series be contested on short ovals, super speedways, and permanent road courses (you can keep the street races, thank you very much). CART had it all (except for the crown jewel) at one time. They probably had 8 of the twelve best drivers in the world at one time. They put on races that had more excitement than 6 F-1 races together. It's all over now except for the sale next year of new owners rights to Tony George. Cart should have won the war, but they fumbled it away by not going head to head with the Speedway AT THE SPEEDWAY. They should have shown up in May and taken the few spots open to non-IRL and embarrassed the krap out of Tony and his has-beens! They shouldn't have run a poor copy of the 500 at Michigan like they did. Well now it's all over but for the crying. Now T.G. will have to run road courses and international events. The sponsers will demand it. In effect he will have to put on CART's old show. SOOOOooo, lets hope it is all dead and buried soon!

The first race car I made I took off the drip rails. The previous advise is correct, you must leave at least every third spot weld until you weld the gaps back together. I did it for aero reasons, but it looked nice also!