SteveJ

Sorry, that's not accurate for the 73. The Hazard switch light is a BA9S, but there is a strand of optical fiber from the bulb to the switch. I'm not sure about the seat belt warning light for the 73.

From the wiring diagram

Is it a European model? It might be the same as the US model. Your earlier post asking for the light bulbs for that and the hazard switch led me to believe you had a 74 or later, so I gave you the wrong answer for that post. If you haven't already done so, you can download an English language version of the factory service manual from the downloads section of this website. There is a link in my signature. The circuit comes off the fusebox and goes to the dash harness as a green wire. The green wire goes to the body harness. It branches off in two directions. One goes to the weight switch under the passenger side seat. The other branch is a green/black wire going to the driver side seat belt latch. From the weight switch the wire comes out as green/black and goes to the passenger side seat belt latch. From the latch, it comes out as a green wire. From the driver side seat belt latch the wire comes out green and joins with the wire from the passenger side latch. That green wire goes to the transmission neutral switch and comes out green. That wire branches off to the seat belt warning light and the buzzer. I believe the buzzer is only grounded when the driver door is open.

The system changed over the years. Put the year of your car in the signature. Click on your username in the top right corner of the screen. On the left hand side of the new screen, you will see Signature. Click on that and add the year of your car to the signature block. Save it, and in future posts we will know what year car you need help with.

I swapped my 260Z to headers, and it wasn't for any performance gains. I had a massive exhaust leak that turned out to be from a huge crack in the exhaust manifold. You can see photos here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/intake-and-exhaust/ I also had to replace the gasket on my 240Z not that long ago because I had the engine worked on 25 years ago, and I didn't know to re-check the snugness of the nuts on the manifold. Heck, there were even a couple of missing studs. With the low mileage I've put on the 240Z, the studs were no problem. On my 260Z, a good mechanic worked on the car a few years prior and fixed a broken stud. Again, there were no headaches for me. Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good. If it seems too daunting, there are a couple of really good Z wrenches in Virginia. Eiji Hosami has Datsun Spirit in the DC area, and Todd Wagner runs Tidewater Z Auto Service near Newport News. https://datsunspirit.com/ https://tidewaterz.com/

Since the gasket for the intake and exhaust are combined, yes, you need to remove both so you can replace the gasket. Headers need a thicker gasket. A friend of mine who has worked on Z cars for 30+ years uses 2 gaskets with plenty of Ultra Copper spray to hold them together to seal. Check for a flat mating surface on the header to reduce the opportunities for leaks. Have new studs available. Be prepared for studs to break, especially any near the exhaust. You can get studs from Motorsport Auto (http://www.zcarparts.com/) sold as a kit or from ZCarDepot (https://zcardepot.com/) sold individually. I purchased JIS style M8 nuts from Bel-Metric since the Motorsport Auto kit had the wrong M8 nuts in their stud kit (I actually bought a lot of those nuts for various applications on both of my Zs.). The MSA kit does include spacers, so that is nice. You'll need to plug the EGR on the intake since you won't have exhaust gas coming up from the exhaust manifold anymore.

Here are photos of an aftermarket slave cylinder from my parts shelf. I removed the actuator rod for this photo. What I don't see in your photo is the bellows to hold the rod in place.

What ignition does the car have? Points? Pertronix? ZX? MSD? Crane? Have you verified there is no wobble in the distributor shaft?

It could be a Xenon air dam. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/datsun-260z-280z-xenon-urethane-front-air-dam-3125/

That's a BA7 bulb. https://www.google.com/search?q=ba7+bulb&oq=b&aqs=chrome.1.69i60j69i59j69i60j69i61j69i60l2j69i65l2.2339j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Send me a PM with your phone number, and I'll pass it along to someone I know in North Georgia.

Yes, what are you looking to have done and in what timeframe?

And Mike McGinnis has it: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php

I believe Les Cannaday used to sell engine paint. I'm not sure if he still does.

First put the year of your car in your post. It looks like you have a 77 or 78, but I can't be sure.

The short answer is, "No." The longer answer: How much have your researched the electrical wiring in the 280Z? The harness has 3 main sub-harnesses: engine, dash, and body. Here are some of the changes over the years that come to mind. This list is not all encompassing. (This sounds like a good group project.) It would take a lot of effort to do this for a VERY small market. The 75 wiring harness used the 260Z harness as a starting point, removing some of the wiring needed for the carburetors and adding the wiring for the licensed version of the Bosch L-tronic fuel injection. There is also an extra fusible link for the EFI that is not in the 260Z harness, and they deleted the PITA seatbelt interlock relay, though it's still shown in the wiring diagram. The 76 added more fusible links and dropped the ammeter in favor of a voltmeter. The 77 changed the connectors for the interconnections between the sub-harnesses from Yazaki to AMP. (Did I get that right @Captain Obvious?) A relay block was added over by the battery. The 78 changed from having an external voltage regulator to one integrated into the alternator. The ignition deleted the ballast resistor. The EFI and Fuel Pump relays changed. While a lot of modern cars will have a wiring harness that accommodates all sorts of options, Nissan did not do that with the early Z. There are 12 part numbers in the parts catalog for just the engine harness. If you look through the parts manual you will see variations like Federal (49-state) manual Federal auto California manual California auto This isn't meant to discourage you. It's just to let you know that you're going to need to be creative with your project. Good luck.

Good thinking. What year brake master are you looking for?

Watch what you say about Earl Scheib. Heck even one of their paint jobs would make my 240Z look better.

Even Hondas want to be Z people.

Looking at the BBB website, quite a few people have registered complaints over the last 3 years. Apparently they provide good customer service after they have been called out in public.

If you submitted a credit card number with that order, I would monitor it carefully. I have NEVER had to submit extra documentation to a vendor and to hell if I ever would. Pay a few bucks more and buy from a reputable vendor like Motorsport Auto or ZCarDepot.

I believe so, since their units do AC, heat, and defrost.

Fusible link diagnostics: It helps to have a DC clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07Z398YWF Test the voltage at the battery with the car off. Record the result. Test the voltage at the battery with the car running. Record the result. Note: If it is above 15V at idle - there is your problem. Test the current through the fusible link with the key in ON but car not running. Record the result. Note: If the meter shows a negative value, remove the clamp, face the meter in the opposite direction, and put it back over the fusible link. Leaving the ammeter around the fusible link, test the current through the fusible link with the car running. Record the result. Note: The polarity of the current should change. From this we should get a better idea of whether or not @siteunseen is putting you on the right path. If I have time, I'll make a short video to demonstrate. Setting idle speed: You can buy a multimeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K or a fancy timing light like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8 (Yes, I have both.) You can even find a handheld tachometer, but I haven't used one myself.

Close, it was to keep the points from burning up.