SteveJ

I can't say for sure, but I'm thinking that if you torque in the air, that will twist the bushing upward on each side when the car is on the ground. When the suspension gets loaded further, it may be twisting more than the compliance of the bushing. When torqued with weight on the wheel, the suspension is in a neutral position, so the bushing can twist in either direction as the suspension is loaded or unloaded during driving. Too bad John Coffey is no longer around to give the full answer. 😞

It's simple. I have the ramps, and I trust them more than the old cinder blocks I have. I also REALLY appreciate the increased room I have under the car with the ramps. I'm not exactly svelte. I keep looking at the dead blow hammers at Harbor Freight. It's about time I get one. It's not like it would break my budget.

This also this listing on ebay. I don't know if he would ship to Germany. https://www.ebay.com/itm/301847950526

I could have used a rubber mallet if I had just been willing to crawl out from under the car and walk over to the workbench to get it. With my knees I have to economize on those trips.

https://zcardepot.com/products/front-lower-control-arm-bolt-240z-260z-280z

After I posted about changing out the inner bushings for the LCAs back in September, @Captain Obviousposed the question, "Did you remember to load the suspension before tightening the bolts?" If I had of bothered the RRTFM (That's re-read...), I maybe would have remembered. I figured that I should make a video of tightening the bolts since it may help someone figure out how they can do it. (Hint: Ramps!) I finally got around to editing it enough to post. This also gives you guys something to watch between unwrapping presents and watching football (or cooking the turkey/goose/ham/etc.). Merry Christmas!

We received notice from our power company to cut back today so the grid doesn't collapse. There is ice on the inside of the window in the bathroom from condensation running down to the bottom of the window. Fortunately we have a propane heater in case of emergency.

I was hoping you would stumble across this thread.

From the Remembering the Original Road Atlanta group on Facebook: The picture below is from Oct 1980 According to the comments, it's Jeff Curlee in the 280Z in front. The 240Z was driven by the late John Williams. That 240Z is still owned by someone I know, and he tracked the car at the Mitty a few years ago.

That's not how we operate in the South. Red clay is part of life. It will get on your car, even if it never leaves paved roads, so we don't worry about infield parking.

That certainly looks like the infield of Road Atlanta to me. I just don't see a car from later in the 70s in the photo. Am I missing a 80s era car?

First two guesses would be Underhood inspection light Glove box light (if the door isn't shut completely)

How much is your time worth? You might be able to recondition the tank, or you could save time with buying a tank from S30.world.

Thanks for following up to share your solution. Many diagnostics I have offered people were based upon hearing how others solved their own problems.

With unmolested wiring, it's unlikely to be the fuse unless the right headlight is dim. (Note: This only applied to sealed beams and halogens.) Some LEDs don't have polarity set right, but since you said the incandescent bulb didn't work either, it's not likely a polarity issue.

I believe the circuit is pretty much the same for all S30s. The power for the high beam light comes off the fuse for the right headlight (red wire). It comes to the high beam indicator bulb, and on the other side of the bulb, you have a red/white wire that goes down to the high/low beam switch. In the high beam position, the red/white wire for that bulb and for the headlights is grounded. Things to check off the top of my head: Make sure the right headlight fuse is good. Make sure the bulb is seated properly in the socket. Make sure the socket is seated properly in the gauge. If you don't want to remove the speedometer, I have had good luck in the past removing the tachometer to get to the bulbs behind the speedometer. Are there any modifications to the wiring that we should know about? Are the headlights coming on and switching properly between high and low beam?

If you are looking at the solenoid, you should only see 1 wire attached to it.

This hit my inbox via Hagerty this morning. https://www.hagerty.com/drivers-club/my-garage/76xlk0bd/yafa/90724980-90b3-444d-8f83-638ae7f6f615 260Z 2+2 with this in the description: Power with a 2.6L with a longer wheelbase that makes her look even prettier. I guess everybody is entitled to his/her own opinion, but the car does look nice.

Thanks for pointing that out. The 12+8 are available on Rockauto, too. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13416221&cc=1277243&pt=1704&jsn=1404

Definitely 'yota calipers. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9744180&cc=1272260&pt=1704&jsn=1203

When I have a car up on ramps/jack stands, the wheels on the ground always get chocked. As a matter of fact, when the wife guides me up the ramps, she chocks the back tire as soon as she hears the car go in park. I am pretty good about not rushing anything that I think can crush me.

Get the SUs on the car, and I'll help you tune them. The only better way would be to install triple carbs, and that's above your budget.

The 250 mA seems high, but you would have to do further testing to see if that's from your alternator.

It's not a short to ground. The field wire should be dead with the ignition off. The VR controls the field wire.

That makes sense. Like I was saying before, the voltage regulator is trying to excite the field of the alternator to produce voltage even when the car is off. The way it works is that when you are trying to raise the voltage of the alternator you inject current (This is your current draw.) into the field coil.