SteveJ

Well, the path to ground for your headlights run through your turn signal switch. Vibration from driving can cause a loose wire to move. Yeah, start with finding the grounds for your headlights and moving toward your turn signal switch. By the way, Dave also has refurbished plenty of turn signal switches and combo switches, too.

I can relate. I am one of the younger members of the Georgia Z Club, and I'm FAR from being a spring chicken. Of course, don't discount spending time with us old farts. We do have a few tidbits of information to share about these cars.

I agree. Download the 71 FSM Supplement from Xenons30.com and look at the wiring diagrams. Start around the steering column. While you're at it, buy the headlight relay kit & parking relay kit from Dave Irwin, aka Zsondabrain. Those kits will help prevent similar problems in the future.

I hope you do realize that by living in Orange County, you can't be TOO far away from MSA. Also, considering the number of S30s that still live & breathe (smog, of course) in the land that rust forgot, it's highly unlikely that you're alone.

Question: How tight is the fit on the center bracket? I could see some possible issues in the future with vibration if there is any play. Sorry if you've already accounted for that, but I can see how that might have influenced the soldering of the original design.

Funny, my 260Z door panels had metal clips...at least I think it did.

Don't worry too much about the wire colors on the relays (old or new). Only the coil and normally closed contacts are used. I am attaching a picture of how the relay should be wired to the old connector. The colors match the main wiring harness colors according to the wiring diagram for a 76, courtesy of Phil, aka Blue. If you get everything lined up right, you'll have no problems. Let me know if you have any questions.

If you don't find another source, how about this?

Go to Xenons130.com and find the FSM from the 82. It should tell you how the fan is supposed to behave. By the way, did you actually measure the water temperature at the radiator when the car is warm?

I believe MSA carries the parts you need including bump steer spacers.

I think that's a good idea. Mike, Arne, Enrique - Is this something we could do here?

Before you take apart the thermostat housing (though a stuck open thermostat sounds likely), use a candy thermometer to verify. Idle your car with the radiator cap off (that is to say don't drive around). Let it come up to temperature, and measure with the thermometer. If it matches the gauge, as Bob suggests, look at your thermostat. Your Nissan dealer probably still can get the correct thermostat. It's worth the money to go genuine Nissan with that.

Fuel, air, spark & timing. One or more aren't functioning right. While you're waiting on the hardcopy FSM, download one from the link in my signature and start reading. Meanwhile, it sounds as though your sparkplug wires and/or distributor cap might need to be replaced.

You may want to purchase the book to give you some guidance, with one caveat: get your torque specs from the FSM. I seem to recall some of the torque specs being off in the book.

Yes, it is.

I have seen the chrome trim from time to time on eBay. I can't remember what I paid for my set, though. It's on the shelf of parts waiting for the day... By the way, Black Dragon Auto has the front & back chrome.

That's for the optional refrigerator, Pat.

This is what I'm referring to supporting the cam tensioner. The attached file is a couple of pages from How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine. Cam Tensioner.pdf

How did you support the timing chain tensioner? It looks like you supported it because the chain looks like it's in place. There are a few threads on the subject.

Which positions on the connector are empty? Choose one of the wires as #1, and describe the connector from there. It could give more clues.

Well, what did you touch when you pulled the motor? Did you make sure your timing mark was at 0 when the motor was at TDC? That mark can move.

Well from this diagram, I would say it's the seat belt relay.

An aftermarket part may not have the correct wire colors on it. What are the colors from the engine harness side? Put the colors in order and tell us if it's clockwise or counter clockwise as you're looking at the plug side.

That depends upon where you buy the master cylinder from. The ones listed at RockAuto are adjustable for the 280Z.

Which of your cars are you working on?