SteveJ

I try to avoid letting others do basic maintenance such as oil changes, free or not. On more than one occasion the drain plug was overtorqued or otherwise damaged. Who knows how well they let the oil drain, too. Until I am physically unable to do so, I will continue to work on my cars.

Not accurately.

What color smoke? Black - pig rich Blue - oil White - coolant

I don't see much use in that test. Measuring resistance and inductance of the primary & secondary sides of the coil tell you its health.

You might also want to search for "reaction disk". As a matter of fact, here's a google search of this site: Reaction Disk Search Anyway, replace both as mentioned earlier. Oh, and when you remove the old booster, MEASURE how far out the rod extends. (Lord, that sounds bad.) If you don't match it with the new booster, that WILL affect your braking.

Good luck on that. I haven't seen those listed anywhere for a long time...of course, it's been a while since I've searched.

You need to check the CTS when it's warmer to make sure the resistance changes appropriately. If it always thinks the temperature is cold, it will react accordingly. It turns out the person who brought up the issue on FB had changed his CTS. The new CTS was bad, too.

You should be able to get it to your mechanic, but beware of exhaust gasses coming from the engine compartment. You don't have to drive far, do you?

Call Mike at Banzai and ask him. He's a great guy to deal with. I've spent a few hundred with him. I would spend more, but I would end up in the doghouse.

By the way, I saw this on FB in the Datsun parts and needs group in response to someone's problem. Description Hi Guys I have a question. I have a 78 280z 2+2 with a l28e. Im having a fuel problem. The car is flooding itself out. I have to unplug the fuel pump just to let it run otherwise it will start up and die or not even start. I have brand new injectors, fuel pressure regulator and Air Flow Meter. At first we thought it was the injectors and fuel pressure regulator then we replaced the AFM. Anybody have any ideas on what it is I've inspected all wire Connections and none are corroded. Response This is so simple, it's right in the EFI BIBLE. Check the connection to your Coolant Temperature Sensor for the ECU. When it's loose or corroded, the thing thinks it's -40 and floods the hell out of the car. Has nothing to do with the injectors or the AFM.

Mike, I think I found the brand. Dang, I looked up the price of those. It was over $14 for 6. Man, I wish I could coax money out of people's pockets like this.

I forgot to add earlier, you can blast the area around the turn signal cancellation tab with brake cleaner then with a light bit of spray grease. That may free it up to spring up and down. there are other work-arounds as well.

Do you know how to use an ohmmeter? You can see if the switch is making contact on the back side.

Just make sure there is no residual fuel nearby if you try heat. If you have an air compressor, blow out the areas that had fuel thoroughly to prevent vapors from hanging around.

Start with heat and penetrating oil. A propane torch should work. Just make sure you aren't heating anything up that contains fuel. Use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster for the penetrating oil. They do not catch fire as easily as WD40. Apply the penetrating oil & let it soak for half an hour. Apply heat for a a couple of minutes. Let it cool some. Repeat 4 or 5 times then use some vice grips on what remains of the stud. By the way, there aren't any fuel lines near by are there?

From your description, the problem most likely revolves around the turn signal switch. This should help guide you: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars The main difference is that in the 260Z and 280Z, the turn signal did not interact with the brake light circuit, so ignore the part about the brake lights. If you do not feel comfortable with taking apart the switch, contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain. He will repair it at a reasonable cost.

I lack the entrepreneurial spirit to capitalize on such opportunities. Besides, when I bought the 74 in 2008, it was with the understanding that I would be selling the 73 that still sits next to the 74. The wife has not forgotten, nor will she ever. I am not allowed to bring home any more without getting rid of one first.

For a California car with a case of tinworm, I would agree with the under $1K.

The positive wire for the 76 (and the 75) fuel pump comes from a green/blue wire. That wire originates at the Electronic Fuel Injection Relay pin 74. In the relay, pin 74 gets power from pin 73 (white/red wire) when the coil is energized. The coil in the relay is energized when either pin 76 or pin 4 have 12 VDC. Pin 76 is connected to the START circuit of the car. Pin 4 is connected to the ECU. Pin 4 has 12VDC when the AFM contacts are closed. (See EF-12 and EF-15 in the FSM) If the fuel pump stays on after you turn off the key, unplug the fuel pump relay and look for continuity between pins 73 and 74 on the relay. The attached drawing shows where the pins are on the base. Look for the green wires running to the fuel pump relay base. If you have continuity, that means the contacts are probably welded shut. Also check for voltage from Pin 4 on the relay base to ground. Measuring 12VDC is bad. Please note that I don't know if unplugging the relay would reset the signal from the ECU. The good news is that if you have a bad relay, apparently they are not that expensive.

Try Nissanparts.cc or Courtesyparts.com. If THEY say it's NLA, it's NLA!

It looks even better in person.

Florida is East Coast. BRE Race Car #300 - History in Brief

Without quantitative results with a voltmeter, no. You may wish to inspect your grounding points in the engine bay, though.

It wasn't harsh. It was spot-on. Edit: Oh, and there is only a short window to edit the post.

Okay, let's talk about some things here. 1. You have a short. 2. Your mechanic doesn't sound a good automotive electrician. The part number for the resistor is 25950-E4601. Try ordering it from NissanParts.cc - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories. That's a website for a Nissan dealer in the Bruce Titus group, and it's located in Washington state. Meanwhile, here is your next homework assignment. Take apart your side marker lights. Look for corrosion in the bulb sockets. If there is enough corrosion, it can bridge the gap between the positive and negative terminals in the socket and essentially cause a short. Also inspect the connector between the combo switch and the dash harness. Look for any signs of overheating such as shown in the attached picture. Also inspect your fuse box for signs of overheating.