SteveJ

I think I found your problem. Seriously, though, unless you could provide detailed diagrams of how you re-wired everything, it would be quite a challenge. I'm not sure what you kept from the factory and what you replaced. Having voltage drop to zero usually indicates bad technique with a meter or a short. If it's a short, why isn't the fuse blowing? So, with it not being a short, that suggests it's an open circuit (or you did a bad job of wiring). Change your technique and use an ohmmeter to figure out where the circuit opened up. That's about as close as I can get you for now.

Take a picture of the pin you have. Maybe someone has one or can tell you how to fabricate one.

How exactly are you applying power from the battery to the driver's side brake light? Did you disconnect the harness at the back panel? Remove what wire? They have colors to identify them. Or are you talking about your jumper wire from the battery? Not yet. Take a look at this and make sure you trace out your circuits. Look for any place where someone might have hacked into the wiring.

Nothing diagnostic. You are powering some circuits, including the coil with the key ON and car not running. That's causing the voltage drop.

#2 could indicate a bad fuel pump relay. Just to clarify, you were measuring with the wires disconnected from the pump? Also, did you verify that one wire was grounded to the chassis? At this point, too, you would want to trace out the whole circuit to verify there isn't a bad fuse, fusible link or connector. If your fuel pump is dead, you would need to replace it with a low pressure pump. I've heard of people using the one from a carburetted RX-7.

My memory is failing me. It was only $232 TOTAL to insure both cars. That's with Hagerty Plus.

If no one seems to have that part available, search through the threads. There was a thread on getting locks available through the parts stores (or eBay) that could work. The worst case is that you would have to get it re-keyed.

Hagerty. I pay the same to cover both my cars with an agreed upon value of $5000 each than I paid USAA for liability only with about the same coverage you have. You have to have a locked storage for your Z, and you must have a daily driver for you and your wife. They will ask for proof of insurance on both of your daily drivers. With my clean record (last moving violation in 1991), I think I'm paying about $250/year total for that coverage.

You can disconnect the fuel pump, have a friend crank the engine and see what the voltage is at the wires going to the pump. You can also actuate the AFM to see if the contacts are closing (Pins 39 and 36) to keep fuel pump relay energized.

Did you change the fuel filters? How do you know the fuel pump is dead? Did you check for voltage at the pump while holding the key in Start? Have you tested the pump with 12 VDC?

Keep in mind that the SCCA runoffs were held at Road Atlanta in that timeframe.

For the 74, I got the roadster kit. I mounted the reel up high because I want the slack to come from there when I lean forward. I don't want slack to build up along my hips. That could cause me to go under the belt in an accident.

If you have an ohmmeter, measure resistance from the positive terminal to the negative terminal and then from the center post to the negative terminal and post the results.

It looked like Road Atlanta to me. I just noticed the uphill part going to the Suzuki bridge and the long front straight with the timing booth at the start of the straight. John was at Road Atlanta for The Mitty in 2010 when Pete Brock was Grand Marshall. John raced in the Spec Miata race in a car painted in BRE colors.

Greg, Which Wesco belt set did you buy? The shoulder mounts are there in your Z, even if you only had a lap belt before. I think these pictures may help you.

Umm, only in California apparently.

He's referring to the flap on the air cleaner. Some of them are still intact.

Get an inline spark checker. I would be surprised if they don't have those at Canadian Tire or Princess Auto. Where in the GTA are you? I'll probably be up in Scarborough sometime in May. By the way, just for fun, check the polarity on the coil and make sure you don't have it swapped.

You can also use an HEI to replace the stock box.

Cool, glad to hear that.

They can be cleaned out. Contact Dave Irwin or me about it if you need someone to do it for you.

My first thought is to contact Z Specialties and see how much they would charge you for a dash wiring harness.

The green/white wire is usually associated with the parking light circuit. I can't really tell where under the dash you took the picture. However, from seeing the bullet connector, I would think it might be glove box lamp.

If you have the PROPER voltage regulator, it should just plug into the wiring harness. Is your engine wiring harness intact, or is it hacked?

Start here: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars It's for a 72, but the 73 is essentially the same.