SteveJ

Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting | Fiddling With Z Cars

IMHO, stay with 918.

Think of the battery as a water tower. The water pressure is a function of the height of the water in the tower (This translates to your voltage or potential.). As water flows out of the tower, you have to pump more water into the tower (This is your alternator.). If the pipes are too small from the pump (wiring) or if the pump is undersized, you will have problems. The argument of whether the alternator or battery is supplying the power is not really relevant. What matters is sizing the components (battery, alternator, wiring, switches, and fuses) for the demands of the system.

Not as long as you have an alternator that will keep up.

Matt, Try to get Tim McGovern or Matt Isabel to look at it. They could probably give you a good first-hand assessment.

It's not that difficult. They easily mount to the opposite side. You don't notice it until you find the bleed screw at the bottom of the caliper.

On my 260Z two of the four driveshaft bolts were missing. The third bolt was missing the nut, and the fourth bolt had a loose nut. The previous owner couldn't get it to start. I found it had a bad distributor cap.

Several people have opted for Vintage Air in their Z cars. https://www.google.com/search?q=%22vintage+air%22+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&oq=%22vintage+air%22+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.9412j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8 It will work nicely if you want to put in the effort.

Your basic options are to pull an aftermarket system out of an old Z or go with Vintage Air. Drop in? No. Invisible? No. Expect a generic aftermarket system to eat up a lot of the passenger footwell. You can craft a Vintage Air system that will take up less space. It will cost more, though.

KYB rear strut part number: 361003 KYB front strut part number: 361002 The part numbers listed in the eBay ad are correct. Did you receive two of each part number? Are you putting the 361002s in front?

I posted links to more pictures in the "What did you do" thread. I'll be posting GIFs & videos later.

I guess I'll have to go to the track day this year since it's over near where I live.

I went out to Road Atlanta again for Day 2 of The Mitty: The Mitty 2014 ? Day 2 (208 Pictures) | Steve's CARtography I also felt that 2.5 coils cut from the Chevette springs was too much. I had another set available, so I only cut one coil. I still need to bleed the brakes, so I don't know how it's sitting, yet.

I took the 260Z to Road Atlanta today to enjoy the Mitty (The Mitty 2014 ? Day 1 (278 pictures) | Steve's CARtography). I also changed the front brake hydraulic hoses because the brakes were pulling to the right. I thought the driver side hose may have been stretched when the caliper fell from its perch while I was working on it. The pulling was gone when I did the test drive.

True. The OP hasn't dropped in for a visit in over 6 years.

That Atlanta 280Z was posted locally for a while. If he had realistic expectations, maybe he could sell it.

28911-89913 is a Seat Belt Warning Timer. I don't think that is the precise culprit, though you could have been moving a ground or other connection elsewhere.

Search here for "reaction disk". You'll find a lot of good information.

I love a happy ending with Z car stories.

That just looks too clean to be a Z.

First guess - Bad accessory relay.

GRM came through with free infield parking for the car corrals. As I said before, if you're going, send me a PM for details.

A month after putting Chevette springs on the front, I finally got around to installing them on the rears on the 260Z. I cut 3 coils from the springs for the front and 2.5 for the rear. I installed them with KYB Excel struts. Cornering is so much flatter than with the 40 year old springs. The tire rub on the left rear is gone. Compared to how it was, it feels like a slot car. Meanwhile, it still appears to have a stock stance. Thank you to John Coffey, Phil, and all of the others here and at Hybridz for experimenting and posting the results. So far this appears to be a great cost-effective upgrade.

Now is sounds like junk in your fuel system. I know there have been threads with similar symptoms. I just can't remember where the problem tends to be. By the way for the tester, the brightness will indicate spark quality.

Check the quality of the ground for the ignition unit. Is it touching bare metal? When the stalling happens, are the plugs wet? What is the color of the plugs? Pictures help. As for the quality of the spark, get an inline spark tester (Amazon.com: Fool-proof Engine Ignition Spark Tester: Automotive).