SteveJ

@Mike The Koitos do show up. They actually have a Toyota part number: 81110-60P70 because they are sold as a conversion kit for the Land Cruiser. They come with a relay kit and H4 halogen bulbs. I tossed the relay kit and halogen bulbs, and it was still cheaper than getting some Hella H4 housings. If you do a Google search on the part number, you should be able to find them.

I have QuickJacks, too. They aren't as fast as ramps, but they can raise all four corners. They came in handy when I needed to replace a bad transmission and replace suspension bushings. You need wall space to store them. I mounted a 2x6 board to about 3 or 4 studs and mounted the hangers on the 2x6. When I got mine, one of the pistons was faulty (not uncommon), but they sent a replacement that I received a week later.

What I liked about the Race Ramps over the Rhino Ramps is that it is easier for me to get under the car. If you're skinny & don't have a lowered car/air dam, Rhino Ramps are fine. The Harbor Freight version of Rhino Ramps will be on sale April 7-14 for about $45. The 7-10th are for Inside Track members. https://www.harborfreight.com/6500-lb-capacity-portable-ramp-set-2-piece-63956.html

I have owned these 2-piece Race Ramps for 12 years: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZAHTC4 The 67 inch is nice if you have a lowered car or front air dam. As for being sturdy, I used them when changing the oil on a 2024 Frontier Pro-X with no issues. The curb weight of that model is 4565lbs.

I'm not sure what you mean, @Mike. The info on ZCON.org is correct.

Nope. Look for ATL before the end of the decade, at least that's what my sources are suggesting. Here's the ZCON site: https://zcon.org/conventions/2025/

Koito H4 housings: https://tinyurl.com/e8rcpjwd Auxito H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Bulbs-Brighter-Canbus-Lifespan/dp/B0DK5CSY2P Plug-and-play solution No relays needed Low cost Reliable Good beam pattern Can be converted to halogen bulbs if someone in law enforcement throws a hissy fit

Unfortunately that appears to be the case.

Well, you wouldn't have to worry about being blinded by oncoming headlights. The gauge lights will have already blinded you. Maybe not. The parking light fuse would probably blow first.

I don't like to assume. I can faintly see what looks to be a green wire in your photo that has a female connector. Green comes off the ignition fuse. If your car started life as an AT car, I would think there could be a green wire for the kickdown switch in that area of the engine bay.

Year is almost always critical in asking questions about wiring.

I wonder if Skillard might consider making reproductions of those.

I doubt that is a Nissan switch, and I'm betting @HS30-H can verify it is not.

Well, if you don't have the neutral switch on the 5-speed, it means you lose the capability of connecting the annoying as hell seat belt buzzers. (Just leave the wires hanging.)

I did some more searching, and @Zed Head looks to be right about the switch being for the dual point distributor. The challenge is that it doesn't show up until the 72 FSM on page EC-11. I found a thread here: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-performance-technical-124/thermal-relay-question-36814/ that shows. The temperature range and continuity check you did fits with this chart. And the FSM said it was introduced in 71. Go to the Downloads in the Resources section to get the 72 FSM.

Nope. The switch for the points is on the thermostat.

From the parts manual: It is for autotragic transmission cars, as I guessed before. If the car has been converted to a manual, this thread is complete.

My guess - Key in buzzer. Ignore this drawing. What are the wire colors where it was plugged into? I missed "right hand" in the original post. Now I'm thinking something to do with the kick-down solenoid in the autotragic transmission cars. They are wired with green wire.

I advise removing your phone number from posts. That only invites scammers and spammers to track you down.

Are you on your flip phone again?

I certainly enjoy the obscure information you bring to the conversation, Alan.

Something isn't right. You should only have 1 wire to the negative of the coil unless you are using a tachometer from a 74 or later Z.

It is a little awkward. I usually need to let my back rest after I do it.

By the way, here's the truth table for the 73 combo switch: So the red wire should have voltage to ground when the headlight switch is on. Have you verified you are using a good ground point when measuring voltage?

I'm glad you got that sorted out. Being able to eliminate possible problems help you move on to find the real cause.