SteveJ

I got plenty of photos of the two of you on the track. I felt bad for Andy when I saw the right side had been severely pancaked. I'll eventually get links up to the photos.

You'll need a pin removal (extractor) tool. However, I don't know which one you need for the round connectors. Edit: This one gives you options: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-Terminal-Tool/dp/B0009OR906 2d Edit: Just search for pin removal tool at Amazon under automotive. There are a lot of choices like this (https://www.amazon.com/ILamourCar【11PCS】Auto-Terminal-Electrical-Connector-Extractor/dp/B07B2P7D7L) and this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KLM6R9/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2708083022714283574)

Quick reference: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/door-lock-regulator-handle If you are missing part of the lock, the door lock part numbers for your car are 80502-N4420 Right 80503-N4420 Left

That is not a separate part. It is a component of the door lock. It's the same part number for the 77 and 78, but the 2+2 uses a different part.

Is there any chance the rubber brake lines at the wheels are ballooning?

So did you check the orientation of the brake calipers?

Yes, it is unusual. The typical suspects are a battery going bad and loads added to the wrong side (battery side) of the ammeter.

For me, I just would repair the dash harness, but I am hard-headed that way.

Check the calipers. Make sure the bleed screws are at the top of the caliper. Sometimes people install them on the wrong side, and the bleed screws are down. That traps air to the point that it is difficult to impossible to purge.

That toggle switch is not a Nissan part. From the wire colors I can identify the circuits as parking lights (green/white) and dash lights (blue/red).

That toggle switch looks to be the kludge that the previous owner tried to do when the parking lights wouldn't come on.

I would be tempted to say it's the seat belt buzzer, but that should only have a black wire and a green wire.

And another nice Mitty article: https://jalopnik.com/why-datsun-and-nissan-are-among-the-most-important-name-1825841897

I'm guessing the owner lives in Nashville. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/datsun/280z/2074218.html

That's a party I should have participated in. I'm going to do a labor swap sometime this spring or summer. A friend will replace my rear bearings while I wire up his Z with relays and LED headlights. Frankly, I think I'm getting the better end of the deal. Of course, I'll probably also be grilling after we are done, so that does even it up some.

Wow. Grease and a hydraulic press. Dang, Capt. You sure do know how to throw a wild party.

Have you tried going through the troubleshooting section of the FSM?

It's a 73.

https://zcardepot.com/spark-plug-wire-holder-ignition-clips-oem-240z-260z-280z.html https://zcardepot.com/spark-plug-ignition-wire-bracket-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html

Meet the people who made the Z a winner right out of the starting gate. BRE legends John Morton and Peter Brock are coming to ZCON. Go to http://zcon.org/conventions/2018/?page_id=132 to find the registration link.

I think the dome screws will interchange. I seem to remember scavenging screws from my collection of flat top carburetors when I swapped over to the early carburetors.

McMaster Carr does carry Aluminum BSPT plugs.

Do you know how to use a multimeter? It would be good to know if you have continuity between that green/blue wire and the contact that is missing a wire.

You could search for Nissan FAST in Google. Some people may have uploaded it (possibly an older version) on some file sharing sites.