Zs-ondabrain

For all you who have written in on the subject, thank you And if you'll all go to MY gallery, you'll see the end results and once again, thanks for your input, I appreciate it. P.S. I'll paint the lettering blue later on, been kinda busy Dave.

Been there, done that, had to use the t-shirt as a grease rag, oops..... It's a great tip and I wish I'd been the one to write it out but I've done so many mods and little tip fixes that it's hard to keep up or remember all that i've done.

one other thing I thought of was .... the oil pump pumps at idle to 7000+ rpm and it may take awhile for the oil to get there oil in the pan?? plugged spraybar?? bad oil filter??? keep guessing.

I'm not a serious pro but my first thing to check would be the oil pump rod and w/ the distributor cap off I'd check to see if the rotor is turning if the locking pin on the crank is slipping, the oil pump and the distributor wont move hey, it's a shot in the dark, even for me, but what the heck and I hate to even mention the other possabilities,......

one problem, I'm already old and forgetful and I will leave it on, Thanks

not knowing the history of the car in question, if the car has sat for a while 1) the rings could be worn 2) the head gasket could have a passage leak 3) a leaky valve or deposit in the valve seat a pressure test will identify a ring or valve problem keep looking and good luck

a couple things to ponder.... 1)did you fill it to high??? just kiddin 2) 10w-30 is recommended for your weather but, they don't take into account - your driving.. if your a high revver like me, you might want to think about 20-50 or a high milage oil w/ a BOTTLE of HYPER-LUBE (ITS SUPER THICK AND MADE FOR SMOKING OR WORN MOTORS) ESPECIALLY IF YOUR WEATHER IS HOT! 3) Might be a good time for a valve adjustment, and a pressure test on each cylinder, Just for fun.....(you know ya love it )

Thanks Alfadog, but at the time there were quite a few on line And you were thinking same as me, toss the mfg stamp and leave the p/n. and maybe use a little bit of my (intense Blue pearl) on the lettering to make it stand out? Man, I LOVE BLUE AND CHROME/POLISHED ALUMINUM! Thanks a lot. Dave in WA. P.S. I'm pulling it today, I'll put pics on later on this evening.

well?

I'm pulling my intakes off real soon so I can smooth them out before buffing them to a high luster like the valve cover and water inlet on my L-24, my question is of basic preference, should I leave the E-46 and the round mfg stamp on the manifolds or sand them off like on the ballance tube, before I take the buffer to it. I'd really like your true z-pinion on this 1) - authentic looking w/ E-46 stamp) or 2) - smooth polished intake w/ no incriminating marks) let me know..... don't worry, I can take it. As you can see in the pic. I shaved all unneeded rises and lifts off of the balance tube, then smoothed it out, i'll probably polish it later.

been there, done that. mine had uv rott and was missing clips and the original glue had failed. before you try to remove the clips, have a new pair of vents ready (p/n 31-1100 in the motorsorts catalog) (they are the back bone of the whole system) because of the pins that will (99% chance) break. if your pins are good and you're looking for new clips, not rusty or worn ones like yours probably are, id suggest the speed clips that they use on the back side of a speaker, you can pick em up for free at any car stereo shop. and i would use a pvc plastic pipe glue to hold the two inside pieces together or a black silicone like ultra black gasket sealer, and dont be afraid to use your finger to spread some on the inside of the gutter peice for U.V. protection in the future. hope some of my babbling has helped, good luck and be careful

don't do it, as unfortunate as it sounds, he may be lying but he'll most likely take you. your a lot heavier, older, and your torque converter is your worst enemy. Save face and let the idiot go. he'll probably bullshit the wrong guy and get what he's got coming to him. :devious:

crack, meth, acid, I'm not sure, i personally did'nt see 15k either, but I was so happy at the time I really did'nt care what was in hi his pipe:stupid: and mine is an e-31 w/e-46 intakes (pretty basic combo back then.

I paid 2800 for my 240 and it was vertually rust free, w/ the exception of some minor surface rust near the battery tray, but i caught it in time. A week after i got the car, it was appraised at aprox $15,000 by a local z- shop. If the small dents and scratches were not present, he said there was at least another $5000 in it. ($5000 for the simple fact that the dents and scratches were so spread out that a paint job would be required, after all the repairs and primer) none the less, i'm as happy as a fat kid in an all you can eat free bakery.