Zs-ondabrain

Hey, he's right. I lay praise to the multi-meter gods every night before waking to an electrical nightmare

i'd start by tossing the regulater and blowing the fuel back into the tank you've got something blocking your fuel somewhere. And double check your coil get back to me

Most of the door switches are the same on the 240's there should be a small ( couple of inches) pig tail soldered onto the switch. If there is no wire what-so-ever, then dig for a (most-likely) black or dark colored wire w/ a raw end and a possible solder joint on it. if you have any other questions, be specific and i'll do the best I can to answer them for you I hope some of this helps. Dave.

most likely your ignition switch may be going out, does it have that problem every time, and are you turning the key real hard- or barely. see if there is a difference in the way you start the car each time. And check the plug in the back of the ignition, and the connection at the starter cylinoid. and possibly the relay that clicks when you turn the key to the on possition

You can find good 4 guage oxygen-free power wire at almost any car stereo shop including Circuit-City, and Best Buy. They should also carry gold plated connectors, gold plated top and side mount battery terminals.

were all these adjustments made on the old distributor? If so, there is another screw that holds the adjuster plate on to the distributor, its on the bottm side of the plate and can give another 10 degre? of adjustment. if its loose, it can kick things out of adjustment even though everything appears tight. good luck.

make sure it's not the starter itself loosen the starter and try to see if the starter if working properly (it should pop out and spin if its ok the re-instal the starter and give the crank a few turns to make sure the motor hasn't froze check the ground going from the battery to the starter bolt ( a bad ground will stop ya dead in yer tracks) clean every connection w/ a wire brush or something every thing may work w/ the system in the shape it is but the starter needs the most power so give it the best connections as you can see, I used new 4 guage pheonix gold wires and new gold plated brass connectors

thats not bad, but at least you did'nt throw a u-joint at a stop light w/ a hot chick watching, and she just drove away.........

this is off the top of my head, but check your vaccum advance and your coil set up, make sure all connections are good (both electrical and vaccum) I know it sounds weird but my Z did what yours is doing, and it turned out that my coil was bad and my advance was off. loss of power under a load but idled just fine hey, it's just one suggestion from one guy but what the heck, right?

I just e-mailed Nickbean in Bellingham, WA. and Tranzor-Z in Oak Harbor, WA. and I live in Marysville, WA. I was just asking them about roughly the same thing a get together of all our friends who own Z's, some where central for all of us who dont wanna pay dues,etc a picnic, tech talk, driving, Etc. bringing the wives, girlfriends, etc lets figure out something that works for all of us here in the N.W. and soon. let me know what ya thing and get back to me. Dave in Marysville, WASHINGTON.

TRUE TRUE.. BUT MAKE SURE ALL CONTACTS ARE CLEAN, ie; clean where the clips hold the fuse. w/ a file or sand paper. A bad ground is usually the start of all electrical problems. and here we go again.. check the brake light swith which is located at the pedal w/ two wires coming out of the switch, use an ohms meter on it and see if it works. Next...the dreaded turn signal switch. the brake lights, the head lights, and the turn signals all run through that switch.. It's one of the most common problems w/ almost any early Z. If you know how to diagnose a switch w/ an ohms meter. get to it. If not, you gotta find some one who can, because you probably dont want to spend the time looking for a new one or pay the price of a new one. get back to me after you've checked these things out

THE BAKES THE LIGHTS THE TURN SIGNALS ALL RUN THROUGH THE SAME SWITCH:stupid: I NEW I WAS FORGETTING SOMETHING, DUH ANOTHER WORDS...... DO I REALLY NEED TO SAY IT OK.... OK.... CHECK THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH, THE PLUGS, AND EVERY THING AROUND THAT AREA. IT PROBABLY NEEDS REPLACING OR SERVICING, OR POSSIBLY NEEDS TO BE PLUGGED IN. SORRY BOUT THE SARCASM, I WAS ON A ROLL.. LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES

Like blitzcraig said "I tracked them down to the flasher" the emergency flasher switch may be part of your problem, 1) the blinkers are routed through the emergency flasher switch on the dash. 2) The emergency flasher module is located to the right of the steering column. 3) The blinker module is on the passenger side kick panel, when you turn the key to the acc. position, you'll hear a click on the passenger side, find that relay and follow the four wires back into the harness, at that point you'll see two more wires, a blue w/ white stripe and a green wire w/ a white stripe those are your blinker module wires, (you might find the same wires coming out of the back of your emergency flasher switch) 4) make sure there is a flasher module attached, 5) check your fuses in your fuse box for head light related issues and check the lights themselves for deteriation or corrosion. and more to cme in a minute or two (damn door bell%$%$)

It's like they say, " If it's got hi heels or wide wheels, it'll give ya trouble" I'm one of those weird people who completely rip things apart and completely rebuild them using harder plastic or aluminum, when applicable. Or at the very least, buy a brand new one. Hey, what can I say, I know when to give up, and break out the VISA......

Hey Vic, I dont have my Eastwood book on me so I can't remember What the System 1 Kit consists of. refresh my memeory. pleeeaaase. thanks in advance. Dave.

A good paint stripper may take off your clear coat but I was writing to let you know that the Eastwood Company has a heavy clear coat for any thing polished, like aluminum, pot metal, brass, etc. I used it on my 78' 510 when I polished the valve cover and It has real good stay power, hi heat resistance, and does'nt yellow over time. it can be brushed on or sprayed, just follow the instructions on the can. good luck, Dave.

HEY BLITZKRAIG, IF ANY THING IN THIS WORLD CAN wizz YOU OFF AND MAKE YOU HAPPY TWO MINUTES LATER, IT'S A DATSUN. GOOD LUCK ON YOUR SEARCH DAVE.

Thats all fine and dandy but make sure there is not to much vaccum on the line or you'll suck the gas right out of your float bowl. If you tap your filter make sure your filter stays clean or your carbs will try to get its air elsewhere :ie, your float bowl vent line The canister mentioned by chino is a good idea and you might want to look at the engine photos else where on this site. take a look at chino 240z's gallery for a clue about my babbling. good luck, and hope this helps.

the reflection is hazy but thats aluminum, I could do better but thats another day, I'm real happy w/ the results but the picture doe'nt show you what I see. sorry, it's a crappy camera.

the wheels after years of crap, mind you I already used the acetone on it

just this week end I polished all four of my old slotted mags. took a while but was well worth it. I started w/ a bottle of acetone to remove all wax/grease/tar and paint from the wheel so as to not gum up my sand paper and buffing pad which is a 5" spiral sewn buffing wheel on a $20.00 4'' grinder I used (tripoli) compound to cut through the years of crap that built up on the aluminum, then after cleaning the pad w/ a screw driver I used a White rouge for the final shine.

when the old style flasher unit is used, you need to remember that unit shorts itself out in order to "flash" . A couple fixes would be lower wattage bulbs, A different style flasher unit or even an electronic flasher unit If you ever change your bulbs to L.E.D.'s w/ the help of an electronic flasher, there will be little or no draw on the system.

I've been told that you would have little or no suspension left At least w/ a 16, you can run a 205/40/16 but you'd be pushing it w/ a 2??/35/17 (pretty rough ride) very little betweeen the wheel and the ground but its up to you, and spacers are so bad for your rear and put the tire a little to close to the fender leaving you w/ a ripped up tire or worse I would'nt do it but thats up to you. good luck!!