zspert

When I signed on to this site I did so with the intention of passing along some of the knowledge I've gained from servicing, repairing and restoring Z cars for more than 50 years. While I've had to deal with a good deal of head winds, which I generally ignore, I'm confident that some members have put to good use the info I've passed along. I recently took a break from taking inventory of my large pile of NOS "Holy Grail" 240/260/280 parts to put together some info regarding, mostly, 240 front suspension fasteners and rubber. Here goes. The following parts are still available from Nissan. except as indicated. Prices are MSRP. Dealers are NOT REQUIRED to charge these prices and almost all charge more. Remember, Nissan stopped plating fasteners yellow many years ago. So, 99% of fasteners you buy today from your dealer are clear and will need to be replated yellow to be correct. Do not be afraid of using Nissan rubber suspension components. They are NOT crusty and dusty. Front sway bar body mount bushings 54617-21002 $10.93 Front sway bar body mount bolts 08120-8201E $2.15 Front sway bar upright bushings 56112-W5000 $10.37 Front sway bar upright nuts 08911-2401A $1.77 Thin front sway bar nuts 08911-3401A $1.03 Nyloc front sway bar nuts 08912-3401A $1.00 T/C (strut rod) bushings 54476-21000 $14.90 Ball joint to control arm 8MM bolts No Longer Available (NLA) Ball joint and strut rod to control arm bolts 08174-0451A $17.73 Jam nut for above 08912-8401A $1.53 Jam nut for spindle pins and end of strut rods 08912-8421A $4.27 Jam nut for inboard front control arm bolt NLA (you did replace the bushing, didn't you?) Jam nut for steering rack mount, steering rack snubber and muffler clamp (yes, I have an NOS 240Z muffler clamp) 08912-7081A $2.25 Jam nuts and nylocs MUST NEVER be reused. Reuse is unsafe and could result in heart break. But what about the jam nuts that are NLA? The best advice I can offer is to use a few dabs of red locktite. DO NOT torque the inboard control arm and strut rod nuts before the suspension is settled. What am I talking about? During assembly, tighten the nuts to slightly snug. Drive the car a couple hundred yards at slow speeds before going to full torque while the car is still on the ground. There are a couple of rear suspension points where this process also applies but I'm running out of time and need to hike to the mail box before the bugs start biting in earnest. PS The latest edition of the SAE mag "Automotive Engineering" has a good article on EV fasteners. That's a whole different world!

If they're going on a 240 they should be clear.

Those look to me to be the contemporary hose clamps that are available from Nissan. They are NOT, I repeat NOT, the same as what came on a 240/260/280 from the factory.

Yarb, Sorry for the delay getting back. I'm very busy just now inventorying my large pile of NOS "Holy Grail" Datsun/Nissan 240 parts. FI hose from Nissan hasn't been available for some time now but I've had good luck with the GATES FI hose sold by NAPA under their part # H 357A. FI hose clamps are still available from Nissan under their part # 16439-53A00. The MSRP is $10.10. I insist on using the factory stuff while I still can. The hose and factory clamps are a tight fit - that's the way it's supposed to be!

The use of worm drive clamps on the fuel hoses of a 280 will ALWAYS lead to a broken heart!

While I won't be taking part in this I'm sure to be entertained with the answers!!

Sorry - jam not jamb nuts

What is the # on the head of the bolt? Were the jamb nuts virgin? From the factory, there were no grease fittings.

Almost forgot until I looked at that pix again. The lower sway bar upright should have 2 nuts - a standard nut and a thinner lock nut.

The early cars, like this one, had large numbers on the bolt heads while the later cars - through at least the 280ZX - had small numbers. The intermediate cars often had a mix of large and small. Also, be most careful - the drive shaft to diff flange bolts were special indeed.

Not tapped! Thread chased!!

The early cars had lighter color panels - these look about right but do they have the correct slightly abrasive feel?

Of course the bleeders should be on top!! Good luck bleeding that system!!

There wasn't an E4100, started w/E4101

Yes, the S30 tanks are the wrong color. Sorry, not meant as a criticism Chris. Also, be very careful fitting the sending unit O ring. You may find that the locating tab for the sending unit is fractionally too long potentially compromising the O ring fitment. In numerous cases I've had to very carefully remove a few thousands from the end of the tab before I was comfortable. The drain plug is the correct yellow zinc.