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Everything posted by DuckManNK

  1. It got brazed. It's back in the car. I was making a shopping list and just said eff it. Required more effort to delete it than fix it.
  2. Getting rid of the tank seems to be pretty simple, too bad everything else needs to be plugged off. The hose that broke off is the one used to T into the filler neck (It's the largest one of the 3). The hose that vents outside looks to be a larger diameter than the existing line. I would have to cap off the outlet at the far end of the tank and the one above the fuel level sensor. The existing hose is in ok condition so I wont have to deal with the 180 bend. I think I need to get a 3/4" to 5/8" barbed fitting to go into the filler neck. 5/8" is too small for the filler neck as
  3. So I just had an expansion hose fitting snap on me. How undrivable would this make it? It's the larger hose of the two going in the bottom.
  4. Yea, I already buttoned everything up with a composite/metal gasket. Sounds SO much better than before(obviously given the state of the old gasket. When I replace the header I will go ahead and get the fiber gasket.
  5. Just wanted to share what the gasket looked like.
  6. The journal looked fine. No scratches/gouges or discoloration.
  7. Thanks for the info. This is after I cleaned them up. Cylinder 3 was ticking, and the exhaust part of the gasket was blown out right next to it. New gasket is already installed. I still need to change out the valve stem seals.
  8. Probably a dumb question: Does this material need to be ground down? The header was mounted like this for who knows how long. Any header I have seen has a flat mounting surface.
  9. Why I am a bit concerned is that it seems like a feature of the main bearings and not rod bearings. Any product image I see of rod bearings show them smooth:
  10. I removed the oil pan to have a look at the big end bearing on cylinder 3 and check the end float (I was worried about piston slap.) No metal shavings or anything shiny looking. I wiggled all of the other big ends while I was at it, and number 4 also moved a bit more than the others, although checking with a feeler still under .3mm. It's an L28 block. So I removed number 4 and noticed that the bearing had a groove down the middle unlike number 3. From pictures in the manual, I know that main bearings have that groove and big end bearings are smooth. Would this cause an issue? S
  11. I wanna say thank you to everyone that was here and helped me out. Y'all are great.
  12. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I bought it from someone in New Jersey. He bought it from someone in Kentucky. They used it for drag racing. It used to have a 6 point roll cage. It now only has 4 points with the two going to the footwells removed. There were many things in this car that were butchered or slapped together haphazardly. Example : They cut the springs all around to lower it. If you lifted the car you were able to rotate the springs by hand. So who knows if this person just said f' it when rebuilding the transmission (if it was rebuilt) and left the bushing out, or something entirely differen
  13. During my drive I was feeling the shifter every now and then in different gears. I would say at most there was what I would describe as a buzz rather than a vibration. (I think vibrations as a little more violent.) I guess the seal was doing just barely a good enough job of preventing the rattle. Obviously didn't prevent the leak without the help from a bushing.
  14. Here is the video after I installed it with the bushing. It absolutely does not move as much as before. I did notice that the transmission mount does move at the red mark. I also hear a clunking sound coming from the tail housing or the shifter: Sorry for the wind.
  15. I tried it on the slip yoke and there was very little movement. I installed it with the hole at the bottom since I saw there was another channel up there. Woops? I went out for a quick drive on the highway got back and no leaks. Before I would park it and immediately would see drips coming from at least half the length of the propeller shaft tunnel.
  16. Thanks! I might take you up on the offer. I ordered the omega machine tools bushing and installed that right now. I put it in the freezer last night and it went in with only some effort. This bushing I have only ever mentioned when talking about 5 speeds, so I'm about to find out if there is a reason for that.
  17. I think I found my issue.... There is no bushing.... 💀
  18. This is the amount of play the yoke has:
  19. So will a National seal #710324 not work?
  20. Hey thanks for the info. I had actually already ordered that part from Omecha Machine back in November and forgot about it. Apparently they did too. I called them and they told me that they changed part order systems so it was just never sent. I am finally making time to remove the transmission and give replacing it a go.
  21. There is so much fluid leaking out that it starts flowing onto the driveshaft and flinging it all over the undercarriage. I used Valvoline Synchromesh.
  22. I've replaced the seal twice. Replaced the yoke because it was scored a bit.
  23. I spent a bit here searching key words like tail housing and bushing today. Only found threads talking about the 5 speed. I've been searching for any info every now and then for the past 2 months. I ordered a 5 speed bushing late November. Called them today to find out the order was never sent. I'm just going to give it a try once I get it. It pukes up way too much oil for it to be drivable either way. Might give up on the 4 speed I have and find something else to replace it.
  24. Any time I search for a bushing I only find one for the 5 speed https://ampdistributing.com/collections/nissan-rwd-fs5w71/products/1977-up-nissan-datsun-5-speed-manual-transmission-extension-housing-bushing This also coincides with a rebuild parts list someone shared with me here: The bushing being near the bottom. Part number Nissan-62
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