240ZBUILTBYME

So little update but I’m excited about this one! My car didn’t have an oem steering wheel, I know.... who the hell doesn’t want the oem steering wheel?! It’s gorgeus! Was looking into steering wheels and was interested in the jdm comp steering wheels msa sell, after talking to a few people who didn’t like them, it didn’t seem worth the amount of money + shipping costs. So after looking at the prices of oem wheels in the US and picking my jaw up off the ground....I managed to source a pre loved oem steering wheel from my local z guy! For a very reasonable price too! Here it is! Little rough, but with a bit of TLC should come out nice! Ryan

Awesome thanks mate. Yeah really like the halfshafts finished like that, and the backplate of the diff. Keep up the quality restoration inspo! Ryan

Well this thread is amazing... but also makes you realize just how much work and attention to detail is involved and most importantly how far you have to go on your own project! Really great work motorman. What’s your rules for silver vs yellow plating? Looks like everything suspension/steering/drivetrain and engine bay gets yellow and silver for everything else? also how did you finish your halfshafts? Is it clear over aluminum paint? Looks quite striking, only ever seen black used. Do you just wire wheel and clear coat the gearbox case? Ryan

Hey ConverTT I've just started building this jig for my project. Thanks very much for your detailed dimensions and photos. It’s taking me a while due to lack of previous metal fabrication experience but I will get quicker. With the rear diff carrier frame, did you build it with the smaller box section and angle to avoid removing the fuel lines or so during reassembly you could install fuel lines with the frame on? Do you recommend getting the the base 3m lengths completely level before you assemble all the frames and attach to chassis? Or doesn’t really matter? also do you recall the rough size of bolt you used on the jig? Ryan

Wow this came up so good after a bit of TLC! I was pleasantly surprised.

I reckon he would do, easy enough if he already has a template made up. Just reverse everything

Cheers Cantech yeah auto panel solutions out of the uk makes some of the panels no one else does, I haven’t looked at pricing though. Don’t think I’ll need the whole firewall, may get away with patches. We’ll see, is handy it’s RHD though! I’m looking at getting his rear valance section.

Cheers racer! I often look at how much work is ahead of me and feel a bit overwhelmed! Literally every part of the car needs to be renewed! But I am not in a rush and I want to do things properly. Yes I’m not too fussed about the panels I can get replacements for, like you say the roof and cowl/firewall is the major worry. I may outsource this work. thanks for the feedback on the vids. Plan to keep improving quality. cheers for the tips on the photos I’ll look into it. I was in love with 90’s Japanese sports cars as a teen, as I grew a bit older I developed a love for classic cars too, bit of an old soul ? so why not combine the two! 240z in my mind is the original Japanese sports car, was just very lucky to buy this car a decade ago for what now seems like a very cheap price. And as you say want to save this car for future generations to appreciate and enjoy. Cheers Ryan

hahaha Thanks Wilkes, excited for the little one but worried about how much time it will take away from my project. will work it out to be honest I don’t know how anyone ever restored a car without forums! The knowledge of a lot of the members is unreal and without them most of the novices (including myself) would struggle, so I thank my lucky stars for the wonders of the interwebs! Yes my car is a bit of a Frankenstein! So my chassis is a series 2 I believe being a early 71 according to the vin research I have done. Can’t comment on seats but highly likely they were added in. Bonnet is a 260z I believe, Tbh im not sure what happened with the 280z here as I have never seen one advertised before, you may be right that they just came out as 260z’s. My engine is a L20 and my gearbox may be a 260z which was added in or my car was originally an automatic. As I’ve read that gearstick impacting on trans tunnel could be caused by both auto chassis or 260z gearbox in 240z. I’m kind of glad that I don’t have an original unmolested matching numbers car as then I would feel compelled to preserve it and do an original resto. With my Frankenstein I don’t feel so bad turning it into exactly what I want. A mildly modded faster than stock, better handling, originalish looking 240z! ? Ryan

No problem cantech! Will update the thread once I start fitting panels which won’t be for a bit. Ahhh thanks for the photo I thought it might be a stock gap!

Thanks but You can’t even put me in the same league as ConverTT!! He is a true master, I am but an apprentice lol I would be over the moon to do half as good a job as ConverTT!

My panels arrived from KFvintagejdm! Well some of them... did the post on Viczcar and has lots of photos which took me ages to upload so if you would like to check out my thoughts on the panels here’s the link. https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/20081-kfvintagejdm-replacement-panels-initial-review-and-quality/ they’re very high quality, I’m especially impressed by the floor pans!

Thanks mate!

Hi Mate! Can I just say that this is one of my favorite build threads ever... I have read through it about 10 times. you are one skilled human being.... but enough arse kissing, just wondering what the final height from Floor to pivot point for your rotisserie? Am about to replicate your chassis frame very soon! So thanks for posting all the plans and measurements

So these are the kameari Subaru R180 diff to half shaft adapters. They are really pretty.... so the splines go into the Subaru diff and flanges onto stock halfshafts. Chuck your stock z diff front face flange and diff backplate onto the Subaru R180 and hey presto 240z LSD for under 2k! My z man has to check the internals on the Subaru diff to make sure everything’s healthy and then it’s a done deal!

I actually had the front of the car up on stands when I took it out, my theory was that it would create a better angle to work with but I think it made it harder... lol oh well live and learn! Yea definitely a B type. I believe my car was an automatic originally, so PO must have transplanted this and the engine in as it’s a 72+ gearbox and mine is a early 71. Not too fussed though!

I have seen lots of people do this in videos Good point patcon as its the cooling of the weld that causes the "pulling in" of surrounding material. I guess the cooling effect would increase the amount of shrinkage relative to a weld that has cooled naturally? I guess if you are doing a small area and are unable to move around slow enough you could just work on multiple patches so you can work your way around slow enough? Would be interesting to know which method the "experts" recommend! I have also seen videos where people use a hammer and dolly to stretch the metal as its cooling to counteract this shrinking, have either of you tried this? I feel like it might be easy to over beat the metal and end up with a high instead of a low?

Exciting new development today! I have sourced a Subaru R180 LSD diff for my car! I have a classic z specialist here in Perth. bought from one of his other clients who was selling it. Apparently all I need is a front flange and backing plate from my stock 240z diff for the drive shaft join and some adapter plates to mate the 240z halfshafts to the diff. These adapter plates are made out of Japan and will be on order soon. I may also need a different moustache bar but we will see. Will come out cheaper than the Quaife option hopefully. Still pricey though.... but can you put a price on not lighting up your inside rear wheel mid corner?

Cool good to know!

Thanks Grannyknot! thats my plan, slow and steady.... with your buttwelds do you leave a gap or butt each sheet right up? obviously too big a gap equals more blow holes than a pod of whales

Nice! good to hear the experience with KF is universal, I think MSA and tabco/zedd findings will be losing some business. Seems like better quality at a similar price with better customer service experience. they should do well. Mine was fedex aswell and Im suprised how quickly it got to australia, currently on the east coast but should be on the west coast within the week! cost of shipping was better than I expected too!