Yarb

That was the direction I was heading. Sway bar was coming out eventually. Rebuilding the rear suspension with the diff swap. There just has to have been a better design. Appreciate the help...

Having the same issue, 78 280 and the shaft has never been removed. 2nd owner bought it with 18k miles. Open end is just going to round them off. Replacing the diff with a R200. Need some advice from the Forum... Thanks in advance Thought about doing that, just thought there was something I was missing. Truly a poor design. I guess I should be happy there are “D” Heads on the opposite side. I’ll put some kroil on them and give it a shot. Thanks Zed

Having the same issue, 78 280 and the shaft has never been removed. 2nd owner bought it with 18k miles. Open end is just going to round them off. Replacing the diff with a R200. Need some advice from the Forum... Thanks in advance

Dave, I really appreciate your time and effort today. Thanks for documenting today’s events which will come in handy when we revisit the AFM in the future. Once it’s back on the road I believe we will have a better idea on dialing it in. I think you. Accomplished quite a lot today just seeing the car for the first time. At this point as you documented earlier to focus on the gauge issue for now and move on to the drive train swap. Thanks to everyone for the guidance in order to get another Z back on the road. I’m looking forward to the next challenge ahead.

Dave WM has graciously offered to help speed up the process by going over some tuning procedures with me and hopefully getting Her back on the road after a 12 year Z nap....I’m fortunate we live fairly close.

And all the others patiently waiting in line!!!

And all the others patiently waiting in line!!!

I’ll go back and check the new thermostat I put in. I’m thinking it was 180 degree. I’ve kept all of my receipts. I’ll dig through and let you know.

Sounds great, I have not tried disabling/injector test. Looking forward to bringing this Z back to the road.

Awesome, I have the full drivetrain from a 83zx. That would be great send me a pm. Have a great day! Oh.. I still need the pedals. I assume I could use the same pedal box. To tell you the truth l haven’t looked.

Thanks Dave, just noticed your in Central Fl. also. I’m in over in Lakeland. The car is in Haines city in my families warehouse. I dropped the tank and had it cleaned and coated. Been running out of a gas can. Was holding off installing it until I swap the AT to 5 speed and r200 diff. Thought it would give me a lot more room to work with. Not to mention brake issues so driving it might be a problem for now. Thermostat and plugs are new as well. I’ll get a chance to run it tomorrow for the first time and get it up to temp. Now that the bcdd issue is resolved I can at least let it idle for awhile.

I’ve yet to get it to operating temperature since I began this project. Today was the first time it’s cranked and idled. I found the afm had been messed with before I cracked it open. All three mounting bolts were missing and the ground wire just hanging there. I followed “Atlantic’s” thread point by point. The result was the flap was not completely closing not allowing the fuel pump to disengage. Corrected that by bending the tab per the instructions. Flaps closes completely, pump circuit opens. All other measurements checked out. Fuel pressure is good now with OEM pump and regulator replaced. Installed a pressure gauge between the filter and fuel rail. Isolated the cold start valve. Tested it by the fsm and it checked out. Injectors were sent out to HPI and refurbished. Temperature harness replaced with sending unit as well. Haven’t checked valve lash or timing yet. The reason I was asking about the aar is by reading that thread the engine receives more air at start up until reaching operating temperature. I hope I understood that correctly. Ignition components replaced. Air gap checked out on the distributor. Verified measurements at the ignition control box at passenger side. I know it sounds like I’m bouncing around here. It’s been sitting for 12 years. I’ve cleaned every contact and replaced all fuel,vacuum,boots etc. when my dad drove it for years running extremely rich. Bumper is black at the exhaust tip. I’m sure it’s got some serious carbon buildup going on.

Well that did the trick it’s idling now!!!! I only ran it for a minute. Want to make sure the permatex has time to dry completely It’s running rich, I guess my next step would be to check the air bypass screw on the afm. When I originally looked at it was a little over 4 revolutions out. I’ve completed all the preliminary measurements that are static tests. Can anyone suggest where to start? The temp sending unit and harness has been replaced. From what I read this is the main threshold the ecu monitors for fuel delivery. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to everyone on getting the idling issue resolved.

Got them both plugged and sealed. Clean the plugs and give it a try.

There is a pin hole and a large hole next to it. I thought that fed the BCDD. Ok fished it out with weed eater line large hole in front goes to large port in bcdd, got it plugged small trace of black silicon on my line when I pulled it back. Small pin hole goes to the dead end loop under the plate. The plate cap will seal that. Put a small amount over the pin hole inside the bcdd chamber just in case. Everything can be cleaned up if necessary in the future.

Good idea less messy if plate holds pressure on the plugs

Awesome thanks, I might get creative and find some small rubber plugs with the silicone. Would it hurt if i plug both

I’ll let you know what I find. Thanks again. I just want to hear it idle!!!

I’m headed to my garage and was going to remove the TB and plate. I assume there are ports visible that need to be capped before reinstalling the plate? If not is there something else to look for? My FSM is at the shop and Hopefully it will shed some light on this.

Thank you for the great information. So, I still have the original valve. The car sat for 12 plus years and before that my father drove it. Ran terribly rich. When I got the car back anything and everything fuel related was in really bad shape. I removed it not knowing capping it up simply doesn’t work. So is there a procedure on capping it correctly or do I put the valve back on and hope it still works? I Appreciate any advice possible. Been chasing this for awhile.

I’ll try it... Thanks Dave

Dave, Is there a procedure out there I can follow? I guess it would be a static type test almost like fogging an outboard?

The booster and trans vacuum lines are plugged. (AT is going away after I get this girl running properly). Yes all I did was plate off the bcdd when I removed the egr valve. I assume there are other areas in the throttle body that need addressing. Thanks for your input. I’ve been chasing this for days. Keep going back to what I’ve touched in the past.

Another test I have not tried is plugging the AFM completely.

Still have a major vacuum leak. Did find the afm not closing completely. Solved that hoping that was the issue. No luck. Isolated the vacuum advance by capping it at the throttle body. Sprayed either all over nothing there. It’s sucking a lot of air some where. Pcv system is tight. All I have left is I capped off the bcdd valve and sealed it with permatex. valvcover gasket is old. It’s running around 2k rpm. Ran the AFM bypass screw all the way in with no result. Help from the Forum would be GREATLY Appreciated