Yarb

Received mine in about 10 days via FedEx

My total cost from them to central Florida was $760

Doesn’t appear there was ever a pilot bushing there. Work that hub off of there and install your bushing. Careful not to drive the bushing in too far. I made that mistake and had to remove it and reinstall another one. The FSM shows you the proper depth. Same with the rear main seal.

Agreed that’s the flex plate adapter. Should slide off the crank.

Not sure on the ZX tank, did you check for a drain plug? Possibly right hand side.

Best of luck Friend...

That’s the bccd solenoid switch. That bullet connector should be coming off the fender well area pretty close to the switch iirc.

It was only one can😂😂😂

Just bought a set from bumper automobile.com. There stainless steel that are chromed. Nice set around $700

Wow

Out of the two I resealed one popped right out the other I used the block wedge to support the shaft leaving the nut on. I gave it a douse of Kano Kroil oil and let it sit for an hour and it then popped t with a bar through the slot and it broke broke loose.

Sounds like you have the tail shaft casing apart. There is a small seal that the shifting rod goes through . Available through Nissan. This keeps gear oil from pooling into where the shifter mounts. Easy to replace with the housing and shift rod removed. Pull it out with a small pic and insert the new one. I recommend you replace it. Same with the speedo assembly. That you can do any time.

Looks sweet Cliff!

We’re you able to change the small seal in the shifter rod housing?

Looks Good!!

What???

Hey John, I was looking to have my shaft refurbished as well. Took it to a driveshaft specialist here in town and was told they could not replace the u-joints. Half shafts yes but not the drive shaft. They built a new one for me. Ended up being around $350. It’s a stouter shaft than the original. Someone on the forum mentioned ZCD had u-joints but were only available through the 77 model.

Yes, that’s what I thought. Unfortunately mine is a 78 and the shaft is not repairable. Had to have a complete shaft built. Thanks for the input.

Where did you find replacement joints for the shaft?

Very nice quality flywheel. Haven’t fired the motor yet. Seems to be good quality. Good people at Godzilla.

I have that same flywheel. Did they they mention the circular shim that’s required to take up the diameter difference between the RB and L series crankshaft. You will need that. The bolt pattern is identical of course but I think you will want the shim to fill the gap difference on the crank. It’s a well made flywheel.

Just curious on your suspension plans. What are you going to use for your front and rear strut’s? Factory or an aftermarket version.

We’re here friend, today, tomorrow and the day after that.

If it doesn’t work out with the money transfer to the off shore account I have a set. Just a backup plan if needed. 😂😂😂

You can try a oil a rust penetrant like Kano Kroil or PB blaster and soak it. The other option is heat. Sounds like it’s seized on there.