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Everything posted by ZNate

  1. All fixed! The issue causing my brake light fuse to blow was a faulty turn signal switch. As stated above, I got the turn signal switch to partially work yesterday, so today I disassembled it again for repairs, but it failed testing with an ohm meter. I think too much plastic melted into the contacts and I was unable clean it good enough. See attached photos. Luckily I had a spare switch from a later model 240Z (longer wiring harness) that was a perfect match. I was easily able to coil/roll-up the longer harness under the steering wheel. Glad to be back on the road to enjoy
  2. Thank you Zed Head for the suggestion. That will be my next step if the turn signal repairs do not fully resolve the problem. Upon disassembly of the turn signal switch I discovered the bearing out of place, which melted part of the bearing housing containing the spring. I cleaned the switch, reassemble it and installed it again. Brake lights and turn signals worked on one side, but not the other. The switch also did not operate correctly. Tomorrow I will take my time fixing it and utilizing parts from a spare switch. Will provide an update tomorrow.
  3. Saw a loose wire, so I repeated my test. No more flashing sparks, but my left side blinkers stopped working. Going to take the turn signal switch apart to investigate and repair.
  4. Thank you Zed Head and SteveJ for the advice and easy to read schematic. it's much better than the magnified hard copy I have. I was doing a test with the brake light bulbs removed, brake pedal down, headlights on and then used the turn signal. I saw and heard a quick flash inside the turn signal housing. In addition, the wire and temporary fuse from the battery to brake switch got warm. Not sure if that identified a short in the turn signal switch or the extra amps from a short somewhere else. What do you think? I'm leaning towards removing and checking out the switch. Tha
  5. After fixing the short causing the fuse link to blow in my 9/70 240Z, I now have brake light issues. I have searched the forums, but have not found this exact issue discussed or anything that I can apply. If someone could help me narrow down the search I would appreciate the assistance. I’m assuming it is a switch issue, but do not want to take them apart again unless it is required. The brake lights work (three bulbs each side) when the brake is depressed. However, if the turn signal or the hazard lights are used, the brake light fuse blows. Turn signal lights, hazards, he
  6. We found the short causing the fuse link to blow and my Z is running again. While waiting for an auto electrics expert to help me, I discovered melted connectors on the defrost switch. The switch was left on by mistake causing the short issue. The switch was non-OEM, with a built-in light and a PO cut the console plate to install the switch. The switch light was burned out, so it was easy to miss that it was on. My expert arrived at this point and he set-up a 12v light bulb to help identify the short. He also added a 25 amp push button fuse to protect the circuit during testi
  7. Minor Update: Retested the battery, solenoid and starter today; successfully got the starter to spin the engine. Removed and labeled all fuses in block; then installed one at a time and tested circuit by using a jumper between the fuse link spade and the 8mm solenoid bolt. Repeated adding one fuse at time and testing circuit until all fuses/circuits past the test - no or very little spark when jumper touches solenoid. Off for a few days, will update when I return.
  8. Appreciate the reply Zed Head. Have no idea why or how the link blew, it just happened one day. Car drove fine before that. Of all the car work I've done, I have never had to search for an electrical short. Guess I'll need to search google for some how-to.
  9. Thank you for the reply. All the fuses are good. Just removed the in-op ARA evaporator to inspect the wiring. No analysis yet.
  10. Have a 9/70 240Z with a blown fuse link and no power at red-white at ignition. This happened last fall before car storage, so I have researched over the winter and have worked on the problem for many days. Test 1: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from fuse link connection to solenoid while key turned to start. Had spark when jumper wire touched solenoid. Solenoid appeared to engage a little. Same test/result we had last October. Test 2: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from solenoid to positive battery terminal, but had no res
  11. Hi Sean, I found Whitehead quite responsive using their email address: whiteheadperformance@gmail.com In addition to exhaust parts, I purchased JDM R180 with 3.90 gears and a transmission mount. Very pleased with their products. Nate
  12. Not exactly the same parts, but I installed a Fujitsubo Legalis R Exhaust and Trust GReddy JDM Exhaust Headers on my 70 240z with R180 diff. Purchased everything from Whitehead Performance in Canada. They are a speed shop and know 240Z's well. Good Luck with your upgrades. Nate
  13. Thank you for the positive and information about your seat swaps too. To keep the Z original looking I tried to resist swapping seats, but so glad I did. BRZ seats are so comfortable. I’m planning on refinishing the steering wheel in the offseason. I think fresh black paint and a glossy reddish tint on the wheel will match the red stitching on the seats nicely.
  14. Ever since purchasing my 1970 240Z last April I found the refurbished seats lacking support. I searched for the recommended seats for swapping, but was unable to find any in both nice shape and reasonably priced. Purchasing locally appeared to be the only option due to shipping costs. In my research I found Miata owners using Subaru BRZ/Toyota 86/Scion FR-S seats and since Miata seats are popular swaps for 240Z’s, I decided to focus on the Subaru/Toyota seats. BRZ seat measurements: Seat: 19.5” wide x 19.5” long Hinge Width: 22” Seat Back Height: 33”
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