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About wadelester

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    Active Member


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  • Occupation
    Retired Air Force

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    7/71 240Z - Need a lot of work, but has good bones. I've have a few British roadsters and this Z, by far, is much better.

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  1. I went thru the same thought process, but decided on the stock arms as well.
  2. Does anyone have any experience with the rear axle?
  3. I sent this question to WoodWorkerB but thought I’d post here as well. Half Shaft Rebuild I rebuilt one half shaft following @wooodWorkerB’s guidance, but I’m having a problem. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/half-shaft-rebuild/ I can assemble it but only with the bearing/spacer mix pushed all the way to the end of the sleeve yolk to the point where I can barely get the plug and snap ring in place. There is no movement of the sleeve and shaft once assembled. I had to really force the shaft into the yolk. Does anyone recall if yours could slide in and out (even just a bit) when assembled? any information is appreciated.
  4. Thanks to all, It's the inside on one of them. I tried to capture it in the top picture...the inside gouged and rippled up. @Terrapin Z do you have one for sale? Any help is appreciated.
  5. Does anyone have (or know where to buy) a rear axle flange for R180? Looks like the PO tore it up on install. Thinking about it, maybe I tore it up on removal, but don’t think so as I use a press and all other are good.
  6. Thanks @Dave WM I opened the cartridge packing and low and behold there was a new nut. It still took some work, but I got it to the same point. i noticed that the new cartridge is a little shorter than what was in there. Does the gland nut compensate for that or do I need a shim? thank you again.
  7. After much work, I can finally hand tighten the gland nut. I need a pipe wrench for the last couple turns, but it stops at the point int the picture. Is that correct gap, or should it thighten to the point where the nut is flush? The nut is tore up, but pipe wrench works.
  8. Thanks to all of you...your insight (and encouragement) help keep my project moving. The machine shop cut the pin, applied heat, and applied 90 tons of pressure. For $75 I had him remove the lock pin, spindle pin, and strut cap. considering he probably had three hours into it, I guess it wasn’t too bad. I’ll do the other side soon. thanks again.
  9. Thanks for your input. He had a 50 ton press with no luck. I gave him the go-ahead on cutting the pin...fingers crossed. Thanks again.
  10. I know there are many threads on this topic, but I need your advice. i couldn’t get the spindle lock pin out so I took it to a local machine shop. I said he could take out the spindle pin too. He removed the lock pin but stripped one end of the pin. He said he heated the entire area to almost glowing red, but the spindle pin wouldn’t budge. Advice please: he wants to now cut thru the spindle pin between the gaps where the strut joins the link. He’ll then remove the strut assembly and then focus on removing the remainder of the pin from the link. thoughts?
  11. Thanks to all! i got all bearings removed. I did end up pressing thru the end caps on a couple, but was able to still get the rest of the cap off. im going start another thread about the spindle pin.
  12. Ok I figured it out. I got the outside end cap off and then pushed it back through the other side. Is that the way to do it?
  13. The other side is clear of the yolk. How do I remove the cap? Vice grips? Tap on edges?
  14. Thanks @Zed Hed I pressed one out and now can’t get it out of the yolk...arghh. it doesn’t seem to have enough clearance. also, on the flange side it’s tapered so it won’t lay flat in the press. Do you have a trick for that? Lastly, is there a specific order and specific side I need to press them out so they can clear the yolk?
  15. Thanks! I found them under the grime. I have two follow-up questions: do I have to remove all four clips or just one from each axis? I was able to remove one on each side, but the other two aren’t budging...I didn’t really try too hard yet. (I did get all eight out, but still curious) when I press them out, do I press on what looks like the end caps as shown in the pic above? My guess is those are the actual ends of the of the bearing, so I would press there. you advice is really appreciated.