HappyZ

@wheee! do you pinch it around the rib or do you lay it along side of it?

@wheee! how think is the tape and where did you get it?

Thanks @wheee! what are this black Rubber squares called? I guess I need those too?

I have my 240Z in for paint and the fenders are off. I see a fender liner (rubber seal) on Z Car Depot. Do you all use them when installing your front fenders? If so, the clips that hold the seal are $6.50 each and you need 12 of them. Is there an alternative for the clip? https://zcardepot.com/collections/gaskets-grommets/products/fender-to-body-inner-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z https://zcardepot.com/products/fender-liner-clip-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-78?variant=19274988060785 Any help is appreciated.

Thanks @Namerow

I just sent 240Z to paint, and would like to replace the rubber grommets everywhere I can. Do any of you have a list or (ideally) a diagram that shows them? Any help is appreciated.

Well, I sent the white one off to paint and engine swap. I'm also swapping in a five-speed tranny. It'll be a glass and engine out paint. I'm going with silver (901) as was the original color. I'm spending a bit more than I wanted to, so please don't tell my wife.

Thanks to all...I'll ponder it for awhile. I may consider going back to rubber bushings too.

@Jeff G 78 thx I’ll look at that more closely.

@Zed Head I rebuilt the entire left side suspension, but really don’t like the way control arm fit into the assembly. My guess is that the bushings won’t last long. I can go with what I have, but thought I may try buying used on eBay, hence my question.

Are all S30 control arms and strut assembly interchangeable? I've decided to redo my rear strut assembly. I just wasn't happy with the final result. I see some for sale that only say they're for 260Z and 280Z, but don't say 240Z?

I wish I would have done that. I ended up putting outward pressure on the transverse link, and then I wedge the strut in between. It wasn't easy and I wasn't really excited about how it turned out. Nice job.

This link looks like a pretty exhaustive list:

Thanks to all who commented. I went to look at the hood and it in good shape, so I think I'll trade. He is doing a resto-mod

My late 1971 240Z has a vented hood. I have an opportunity to swap someone for a non-vented hood. In your opinion, should I swap? I like the idea of keeping things original when I can, but there may be advantages (cosmetic or mechanical) to keeping the 280Z hood.

@David Downs would putting the check valve on the other side of the fuel filter allow you to retain that fuel too? Just a thought.

I still have to do the other side...I'm not real motivated, but I'll get'r done.

@Clay C It's not fare that you post all your pics at once. You make it look you rebuilt it all in a week ? Everything really looks nice...you inspire me to stay focused and get things done on mine. Thanks for sharing.

OK...I got the whole darn thing together...I took it to a machine shop and together we squeezed it in there. @Zed Head I wish I would have seen your last post as I would have done just that. The pin came with the rubber washers that I could have used for the portion I removed.. Thank you to all of you that provided me with guidance and common sense approaches to these problems.

I was wrong...a slight tap with a rubber mallet pushed the pin all the way thru bushings and strut. Problem: I can’t get the strut to squeeze into the transverse link...I tried the putty knife with grease everywhere and it just won’t squeeze in there. That’s all I have left before having it all assembled. Any other ideas? what are your thoughts on me sanding a bit off of each inside poly bushing to make the gap a little wider?

@jfa.series1 thx. there is no way that my spindle pin will slide easily through the bushings. It’s way too tight. I doubt that I could even gently tap them in. Arghh!

I hate to beat a dead horse, but I’m certain that the pin will be tight when I press it thru the bushings. When you say push the pin using two fingers, do you mean before I install the bushings...in essence it should go easily thru the strut portion? or, do you mean it should also go easily thru the entire assembly (including bushings)?

I do know it goes in one way, but I was testing to see which way the notch goes. It appears that it doesn't matter so long as the locking pin can slide in. Do you have thoughts on that? Also, I didn't slide the pin all the way though...should I slide it all the way thru, or is it designed to wedge in there at some point? Thanks again.

@Captain Obvious I did file the burs and did slide the pin a bit on both sides. Thanks for calling attention to it. That would really suck if I finally have it all together and then the pin wouldn't fit.

Thanks...that's good advice. I forgot about the old rule-of-thumb "Never remove material from something that is not easily replaced". I didn't beat the tar out of the strut as shown...I'm innocent ? I'll squeeze in in there tomorrow.