MH77280Z

@Zed Head u r right the remote starting works just by supplying 12v to the pin. Other jumper is not needed. Also, i tested the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil (assuming ignition coil): - At ON there is no voltage - When I move the key to START i see 12v Appreciate everyone patience so far guys. I think we are not far away from getting to the issue... Also, why do u say the ignition relay is not in the starter circuit? The FSM page i posted clearly says there are 3 parts of the starter circuit Starter Relay, Ignition Relay (not Module - correction) and Inhibitor switch.

It ran after I bypassed the ignition relay with a remote starter switch only. I was having this issue intermittently before when sometimes the ignition relay just used to click vs sometimes it worked. This time I believe it gave up altogether and now I am all up to remote starter only.

Yes the voltage was tested at ON. I have not replaced the ignition relay. I do expect a used one coming in next week. let me try measuring the voltage coming into the relay. As I suspect it is ignition relay causing issue.

Tested voltage to ground at on and start at this black white wire in the white connector - left bottom wire and seeing nearing nothing like 50-60 milli volt on the meter.

Where is C4 located @SteveJ

Let me get back on this…

The starter solenoid is good - it is original and rebuilt from a reputable shop. There is no voltage at the terminal to the starter.

I tried in N and it didn’t work.

I have not bypassed the seat belt relay. How do u do that? jump the black/yellow wire? Asking because guys here dont mind sparking 😃

Its a 77 280z A/T

My previous starter issues got solved with a new ignition switch. But I have been seeing some funky behavior with the ignition relay for a while like i mentioned above.

I tried on N just now again and have tried it at every other position as well and I just keep getting that click in the ignition relay that's all. Previously when it used to work sometimes intermittently it used to do it but then on 1 or 2 tries it used to start. I think the ignition relay just gave up.

I had to edit the post. I connected the remote started between two big solenoid posts. And while ignition ON, I pressed the remote starter and also touched 12v to the solenoid pin and the engine cranked perfectly like it was before. Removed everything and the car is idling. I think the issue is down in the ignition relay i think.

Dumb Q: if u jump these two terminals will it actually activate the plunger in the solenoid? I mean if it bypasses the solenoid the plunger will not activate and will not let the starter make contact with the flywheel etc.?

OK that means both nothing to do with the start up issue i am having. I am planning to take the starter out and bench test it. Before I use a different ignition relay. I just bought one used hopefully working ignition module from ebay.

Guys what relays are these under the passenger seat?

Tried a new ignition module today and exactly same condition. Nothing. Is there a way to test the ignition relay near the passenger kick side panel? I do hear sound of clicking there. But not sure if it is ignition relay. where to check the voltage behind the solenoid terminal?

When i turn the key the ignition relay does click, so i am assuming the power is getting from ignition to the relay. How much I dont know. Last time it came out to be the fault original ignition module not sending enough power. Let me try putting a new one and see if it behaves any different. I did check my fuse block too and all fuses seems ok to me.

I had issues with slow cranking so I changed the Ignition switch and with a new battery things were normal. This was 1 month ago. Couple of days ago when i parked the car next day this started to happen. No power getting to the solenoid at all at this time. I have double checked the battery and it is fine. This happened overnight only. I have ordered a new ignition switch again and it will be here by Fri.

It’s a new ignition module which I installed 1 month ago. Can it go bad so fast?

Guys, tested the voltage from pin connector on solenoid to battery ground while i tried cranking through ignition and there is no voltage getting there. I unhooked the seat belt and when i move the key to ON i do hear a buzzer and after putting the seat buckle back in the buzzer goes away, so i assume the electrical connector at the seat belt is not a problem. Do u think it is the seat belt relay in the engine compartment? I have also tried tapping the solenoid. TOTALLY LOST GUYS>>>

Upon manually pressing the brake light switch the lights does go off. I do see some plastic on the floor and a hole in the brake padel lever where the switch pressing when u release the pedal - is there a replacement part to fill that hole gap? Also, i did check the battery and it is fully charged and it does not what so ever crank the engine. Like I said i parked the car overnight and it was cranking up fine. Cannot thing of thing that can go wrong overnight. While ignition at start i should see 12v at the solenoid wire signal terminal correct? I can probably start from there. Any other advice?

Do u think it can effect current to starter? I am not able to move the starter at all.

Hi Guys, i parked the car last night and all seemed to be fine. Today when i tried starting the car the starter did not engage. Mine is 77 Auto and seat belt is engaged and i also have a new ignition mod and like i said it worked last night no issues. I noticed when i took the key out, the rear red lights kept ON. Played with the brake pedal a bit but no effect. I had to disconnect the battery for now. Where should i start? somebody seen this before?