JMT240KGTR

Guys, Can anyone provide me the height of an E88 head ie top to bottom without having been shaved. Opened up an L24 last night and found it had notches in the pistons for valve reliefs, looks professionally done. Also noticed they aren't the traditional flat tops we associate with L24, these had a slightly raised outer crown but was flat centre, so it isn't a true dished piston either. I'm thinking the heads been shaved and they've fitted aftermarket pistons, or maybe even L26 pistons? Anyway if someone can provide me with the head height I'd appreciate it, thanks. James

Just like some feedback on the build up below. Note I've built an L6 before, (converted L24 to L26 specs, cammed, high comp, usual mods etc), and also had a 260Z with high comp L28, 240 carbs, Holinger 5 speed etc etc. Both engines were very powerful, and responded differently to varying situations. I liked the revving of the L24/26 over the 2.8. What I'm going down the route of now is re-building an L24 with pretty much the same formula as the two previous builds and that is:- L24 crank/rods (std) L24 bore (std) Head shaved .060" E88 42mm inlet & 33mm exhaust valves (std) Elec distributor & coil to suit Ex-turbo L28 oil pump 240Z Su's Camshaft ? to be determined Extractors C/R should be in the high 9's ie 9.8-9.9:1 Driveline C110 5 speed 3.9 R180 diff Mind you I like and prefer the 2.8 buildup, but since I hadn't done a 2.4 before I'm going to give this a shot. Anyone done a similar build up with a 2.4? How does it sound? Recommendations on the cam? Anything? I want to see what I can extract from the smaller of the L6s, if you guys know, bring it on! James

Those wheels are absolute quality! I have a set like that also and will look to getting them polished like that. Sure makes a factory item look like one of those big brand aftermarket items, looks excellent.

The L24 block can be overbored out to L28 specs, but thats about max. As for C/R, should up it to around mid-high 9's, ie 9.5-9.7:1. This will give an increased capacity of 2.6litre but what I like about this modification is you're keeping the short stroke, therefore the engine will rev harder. I've helped build a motor once that didn't go the usual route of retaining the 240bore size and throwing in L28 rods and crank, this also gives 2.6 specs. Rather we did what you intend doing and that is using a L28 bore with 240rods/crank, again 2.6 litres. We felt this engine had more power than the "popular conversion", we put this extra power down to bigger bore and higher revs (shorter stroke). Many V8s go down this route when talking "stroker vs non stroker", higher revs etc etc. It all depends on the end package and how you extract the most from it ie cam, valves, reducing weight, pulleys, ignition, g'box, diff ratio. Mind you we also shaved the head .050", C/R was quite high, don't know what, it was never measured. Bear in mind I'm not saying this conversion would be better on the race circuit than a fully worked L28 ie L31 triple carbs, big cam etc etc! Here's what we done; N42 L28 block (86mm bore) N42 head shaved .050" (bigger valves than E31) L24 9mm rods and crank Flat top pistons 240 SU carbs (modified needles and jets) Camshaft provided by w'shop (not sure on specs) 280ZX elec distributor & coil Electric fan 3 row radiator Extractors 2.5 inch exhaust C110 5 speed R180 3.9 open differential This motor was fitted in a C110 Skyline, wish it was in a Z, the Z's handling would have loved it. Evidently was involved in a smash a few years back and is gone! Anyhow it was a quick car, and no, you won't have piston height problems, changing the pistons don't affect height only con-rods and cranks on these motors. James

I would have thought the oil cooler would be for auto trans models and if so, the lines for an auto trans cooler would be attached to the bottom radiator tanks. Did these motors come out with engine oil coolers? I don't recall seeing lines coming off it for the cooler. Interesting... Anyone else?

Guys, Sorry no photo unfortunately, but I've seen this "mount" that fits on the oil filter mounting point on the block and then the oil filter mounts onto it. With this "mount" on, rather than the filter connecting to the block directly and protruding sideways 90deg, the oil filter mounts downwards on an angle. Sorry if the description is a little fuzzy, obviously someone's seen these, I've seen them on a couple of 280ZX's and thought I'd ask what they are? What purpose do they serve? Part number/description? Cheers.

I'd fit thoase pistons if I was going to bore the cylinders, I assume that's what you meant:classic:

Yeah I'll give the head a once over by a shop, inspect the chain and gears etc, i also have a 280ZX turbo oil pump i'll be fitting.

Hi Fellas, I am going to fit flat top pistons in my L28, and in order to cater for the new parts and added compression, I'll be honing the cylinders and fitting new rings. All other components within the motor are good, checked bearings for signs of scoring, wear etc and there is minimal if any wear at all. It's an N42, any other recommendations you guys think could be done, or alternatively, be good to hear feedback from experience. Cheers :classic:

The coil and dizzy are separate items. Not sure about Mallory or aftermarket items, but more of the Datsun stuff that is interchangeable with later versions. Thats the beauty of Datto's!!!!:classic:

Further to mods, get a 78-80 model Skyline, take out the diff and fit to your K. Has a 3.9 ratio, better than 3.54 you currently have, unless yours has been changed. Very quick with the mods your suggesting...

Yeah for sure you've got yourself a very good deal there, well done. R30 Skylines w/EFI is the go. Make sure it has the larger coil than a standard points dizzy model, and the dizzy with the module with the 2 prongs for the wires. See below for wiring

Nice pics you got there, esp the C110, look good don't they? Had a couple myself but alas, lack of time and money prevailed:( You mentioned fitting a DR30 5 speed, keep an eye out on g'box length, I believe they are shorter than a C110 box (bear in mind a C110 auto and manual are the same length, straight swap). And fit a 2.8 with flat top pistons or use the the 2.4 con-rods to increase comp ratio, 30/70 cam with the triple carbs, believe me it will fly. Next time you find yourself checking out an R30 Skyline, take the Elec dizzy & coil, this will further improve your engine. Very cheap mods will make your C110 a very quick car, but when fitting the triples make sure the you've got good comp ratio as mentioned and the 2.8 engine, when all bolted up and taken out for the drive, you will notice the change, big time! Interesting auto shifter you have there, in Oz the shifters were black plastic T auto, not that sporty look you have, looks great! The interior is good as well, damn I wish I could get a nice coupe. As for the tail lights, I may have mentioned to Alfadog or someone a while back on how to get a GTR look, I've done it with my earlier coupe (no pics), but you need to get your hands on another set of tail lights to do it. It involves a) removing the reverse/brake light unit and separating the two from one another (pretty easy) using the spare tail lights remove them from its body and filing away some notches etc to enable it to fit the old reverse light assembly. (Keep an eye out for the sealant in there, its very well preserved so take your time removing it, I done it with a flat screwdriver.) c) when re-assembling the new reverse lamp unit use a quality sealant also, not some glue, but a proper one like say windscreen sealant or something. Now what you have is effectively 4 red tail lights but the centre two are working as reverse lights, this is fixed by routing the wires from the centre two to the existing tail light wiring, and fitting a small clear lense lamp somewhere as a reverse light. I mounted mine within the "beaver" panel, cut a small hole and mounted the lense flush with the panel so it wouldn't protrude and look crap. Just route the reverse wires to this lamp and away you go. Tedious, but to get that look with limited options, it worked fine and looked good, esp at night with the 4 tail lights on. I've also seen a 2000GT-X here in Oz a few years back at the wreckers, but didn't think at the time to check it out (stupid). Anyway, good luck with your car, it's in great condition. You got me jealous! Cheers..

Hi fellas, I've got a dilemma with an ex-turbo'd L28 engine. Engine was a fuel injected turbo, now converted to dual SU carb set up. Yes I know you may ask why the conversion, the answer is $$$ for the time being, turbo is put aside until more $$$ come through, a while yet! All bearings, rings, seals have been replaced and well run in, but I'm finding it a little short of power on stand start acceleration. The car pulls great once above 70kph (45mph?) in top (4th) gear 2500rpm, but it's working through the gears from a stand start that I feel is a little slow. Overtaking and accelerating on freeways is excellent. The specs are L28 N42, elec dizzy, 240z carbs, extractors mated to a 240K box (C110) and a 3.54 ratio diff. Comp ratio is at the 8.3:1 mark. My question is, are turbo cams profiled differently than N/A engines? As far as I'm concerned the engine is spot on, but I believe the cam is letting me down. Any experience out there? Help from some Guru's appreciated, cheers!