7tooZ

That the way to do it. However you shouldn't need full choke to start it when cold.

Here is my version Made by Hella. I didn't like seeing it in the engine bay and didn't want to route everything to the glove box. Most people don't find/see it there. It powers headlights high and low, cooling fans., and drivinig lights Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a Zstory sport header on my 72 that is coming off now that my race sport version is here. $600shipped in US Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here is the location of the plug in a 72 240z harness Hope this helps

Got lots of thumbs up while parked on the street Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

New ZStory header arrived today. Thanks to Sean for all the help. Installation next week. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So I am thinking that you are putting water into the combustion chamber it is getting burned. So possible a small leak and only under pressure when cooling system is hot. Two things to try see if your local parts store has radiator pressure tester and check it while hot to see if it loses pressure Or Pull the thermostat and radiator cap and run it when there is no pressure on the cooling system. My thoughts from a backyard mechanic Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Can someone help me understand what the issue is here. Spent sometime reading back through this. Isn't white exhaust (sounds pretty heavy) caused by water in the combustion chamber???? If so I would think that if enough water is in the combustion chamber there would be other odd noises too? Possible crack in the head or block that introduces water once pressure builds in the cooling system? Thoughts?? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Boy I know this feeling. It was my fuel filter. First I could see a small amount on the bottom of the filter. Ran fine on a new filter so I cut the old open and. Could easily see the brown crud. Now I carry a spare. When you let the pressure off the crud falls to the bottom. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I think they aware body color Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Or someone added their own. Was the car from primarily hot climate???? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I would not recommend that. I have alway used white lithium. You can get it in tube or spray. I prefer the tube if you can reach where it needs to go. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sounds good. I am getting ready to remove my Zstory header to replace with the Race version so I will take some extra photos and reroute the wire. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You know I think that's what's what the hardware guy told me. He could tell by looking at it and had no problem finding an adapter Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Would that lug on the thermostat housing be on the hot side or cold side? I thought the sensor in the side of the block gave me the most consistent block temp. Some use a radiator sensor which make no sense to me. Maybe one of the engineers on here could weigh in . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It came with my fan kit. I took out the original plug and took it to the local hardware and matched the treads for both the sensor and the old plug for the adapter. I think you could use a stock sensor. My automatically kicks on at just over 180 and shutoff at about 180 at the rear of the block. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

JSM Correct. Interesting thing is you can raise the stock antenna to any height you want. But it stays up until you lower it which is why so many get bent. Newer antenna have an auto lower when they lose switched power. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Jeff my sensor is on the driver side of the block. See photo Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile That triggers a relay.

Sounds like you have a series I radio and switch. The switch should have three wires. The center wire provides the power and the rocker switch sends the power to one of other two wires which go to the hatch area. The antenna goes up down depending on which wire the power goes to. With the new antennas most have two wires and a ground. One should be a constant 12v one should be a switched power operated by a power source from the head unit. When the antenna gets switch power it will rise. When it loses power it will lower. The antenna ground can be grounded to the body. Here is photo of the series I antenna. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile You can bypass the rocker switch by connecting a constant power wire to one lead and an ignition switched power to the other. Then it will go up and down automatically when ignition is on or from the power antenna wire from the head unit or any other switch power source

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We've had an engine that leaked coolant while was cold and the stopped when warmed up. Maybe? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Great video [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Amazon prime has them at 24.07. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here are some photos I hope they help. This on a 72. The nut is 12mm and once loose you should be able to turn the bolt by hand with the petal return spring pressure off. This bolt operates the brake light switch also. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[emoji57] okay so at least snug or take your puller along [emoji851] Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile