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I thought it was the extra pollution stuff on the 73 manifold that caused the complexity and problems which painted the flat tops with the same brush.

hi

Next up will be carbs and new linkage mods... then a single 55DCO with custom manifold.

Blue will not be embellished with stickers. It is a test mule ?

Just working on the outside. It held 15" vacuum for 15min so that is good for me. I just used the Duplicolor degreaser and some high-build primer followed with a satin black. It looks ok. Luckily the pits are not so bad on the shell. I also Zinc plated the push rod to reduce future rust.

I'm going to paint the shell this evening and thoroughly follow your lead and degrease it.

That is a bummer. I guess a new head is needed.

@Captain Obvious I just received a Cardone rebuilt booster like you and it had the same slathered silicon grease on the pitted push rod. I first experimented with a spare one (pittted) and chucked it in my drill press and gently sanded it from 120 grit all the way up to 800. I did not try to sand out the deep pits and they still show badly. I then spun the more pitted one (that came with the booster) but I hogged it at 50 grit until the pits were removed. I then finished it all the way up to 2500. It turned out very nice and worked very well at holding a vacuum even with the narrower shaft. Also in the collection below is an old one from a 240z that I tried to plug the pits with JB Weld then hand sanded. It worked just so-so. I'm not sure about the matt coloured one. I think someone may have zinc plated it. The rebuilt booster's seal works well with the hogged push rod.

FYI there are 88mm VW pistons that work well for an L28 Overbore with offset crank grind... melds your Beetle and your Z ?

I bought two ATI's that did not fit. I would not touch them. Quality is not good. Jeff Priddy, a Datsun super user, has done long term empirical development of an L series turbo for very high and reliable HP. He worked closely with BHJ to develop an exclusive damper for his needs. They now sell it: http://harmonicdampers.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=74_10 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/58936-standard-bhj-vs-rebello-bhj-damper/ Jeff's work is worth looking up on the net. : http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/

Pulled Factory AC system from an early 77. Tweaked my buddy's 260z round tops. Also found the oil pressure sensor to be leaking and replaced @grannyknot pulled the full unmolested intake with all of the top side stuff from the 77 280z. Car came from Arizona.

I just removed the same hard coating from my 77's floors. A blunt big screw driver and a hammer. Hit at shallow angles and the coating will come off in chunks.

Thanks Chuck! Looks like blue will be down and out for much longer.

My old toyota tercel wagon (breaking bad) had the water valve in the engine compartment. I learned to lubricate it if I wanted heat.

Engine gets normal air from a small passage in the Throttle Body that bypasses the Throttle Plate. A small needle screw controls this amount of idle air. The AAR just gives extra air when it is cold to give a faster idle. Circa 2003: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/aar/index.html Additional heating of AAR with water helps ensure it does not open when doing short stop and go's on cool to cold days. AAR is only needed when the engine is cold; so water temp is a good indicator,

FPR (Made in Italy) arrived from Redline Fuel Management along with 280z rad hoses and rad cap. Picked up some big glass bottles with sealing lids to conduct wintergreen experiments. (Rock hard fuel filler neck with be experiment #1). Not much time with the 280z. Moved it to make way for maintenance work on Ridgeline, Insight and S2000. Cleaned up the garage and pulled Gnose, rear spoiler, metal patch panels, and 280z HVAC stuff. Boxed some stuff to ship to good friends.

I am about to do some body panel work so it is appreciated!

How do you know? I can't see his legs?

I'm sending Blue's intake with the block-off completed. It has a plug in the bottom and a plate on the top.

Take valve cover off then measure the long axis and short axis. Multiply it by 1.5 to get approximate valve lift.

I had to remove an oil pump in the same fashion. Neil Young is a Canadian Car Owner

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Got blue backed up on ramps. Rear underside side looks great (Suspension, tank, etc).