Dave WM

replaced with new plugs, now they are ALL carbon fouled. I may have done that by trying to keep it running by opening the AFM valve manually, thinking it was too lean to start. I will give it a go again tomorrow with a cold engine and see what happens. argh...

switch hooked up, wiring cleaned up some (still have the pump on its own circuit, but I do hear the pump relay clicking so may just go ahead and hook that up as well). Hooked up the water temp sensor, it will just barely idle, but if you throttle it, you can hear it misfire and then catch and sound good, but if I throttle back it will start missing again. 5 and 6 were totally carbon fouled so I put in new, still running too rich on those 4 looked perfect as did a couple others. I am beginning to think my injectors are not great at least on 5&6, may swap them around with some others and see if this improves. I reused the manifold gasket, maybe that was a mistake. I have a exhaust leak that is working right past the gasket. It did not look to bad when I installed it. geez, I just realized I had the idle screw all the way in I forgot to even try to adjust it.

good point Jeff, I am having a lot of fun just messing with it.

well should be able to test soon, got the ign switch (to add the start enrichment) and thermostat last night. going to replace the AAR while at it with the tested one. I know the AFM is ok since I tested it on my car (worked fine) and the ECU was tested. I was thinking with NO start enrichment maybe the disconnected water temp sensor was compensating for that.

Got the regulator in last night, just need to get a T Stat, the universal ign switch, and wire that in and should be good to go for engine run test 2.0 I did check my stash and I have a very clean and tested AAR. so will prob swap out that (after I confirm the ign switch is powering the connector when in the run position. So other than the CSV not firing (too warm here in Cen Fla this time of year) the EFI should be fully functional. I did not bother with the dual timing since my 75 does just fine on a single contact anyway. But I will check on the vacuum to the distributor. I presume it connects to the ported vacuum? I assume it retards at idle?. The last run it required infinite resistance from the water temp sensor (disconnect) I presume do to the cold temps of the water cooling (no thermostat and constant cool water from hose). Hopefully with the temps working the engine will operate with the sensor connected up as it should be. I do have a good sending unit for the gauge as well, its not installed the one in there test open. I would like to hook it up and keep an eye on the water temps. That and the oil pressure. Once I get all this up and running (hopefully ideal running) I will have to decide on whats next. Seriously thinking turbo, but that will require quite a bit of research. I would like to keep in low boost max 10psi but I know that would require at the min pulling the head for a new gasket and some good head bolts. I suppose going turbo means I would really need to get the block cleaned, bearing for rod and crank etc... oil pump upgrade...at a minimum. Again will think on that for while. I will post up another video later this week or weekend after I get the latest setup ready to run.

thx Jeff!

The stock setup is very good for daily driving, (assuming it uses them, on my 75 I had rebuildable struts, some oil and o rings is all it took). I like the stock ride height just fine, makes going over things like speed bumps and in and out of driveways with dips a none issue. Plus I can still change the oil with a low profile drain pan. You can drop a very small amount to get new strut carts if yours uses them (less if you can rebuild) then drive it for a while to base line how it feels when the damping is working as it should. That way you have something to compare to if you decide to go with after market stuff.

I will try to come by sometime early afternoon if that's ok. I got my charger fixed, I will have to re install the alt to get the fan belt to work (for the pump), I may even hook up the external regulator so I can keep the battery charged.

I like that AAR plan. I have a rad coming from JSM was planning on just putting a box fan in front of it.

Long range plan... the wood go kart I always wanted to build as a 8 yr old.

A few things I need to work on, clearly running too cold, as disconnecting the water temp switch was required to operate (infinite resistance) also I would like to use a start switch so I can take advantage of the "Start signal" enrichment from the ECU. The cold start valve leaks from the plastic crimp, I replaced it with a good one but the thermo time was Kaput. Its prob not needed anyway as even with the constant water running it prob is too warm to fire (its in the 80's here and the water temp running thru the engine was maybe 70f, which may or may not fire). Hope the Rad and thermostat will get more normal operating temps to better test out the ECU. Also the AAR I think is stuck open, the idle screw had to be fully closed and it still idled too high from the sounds of it. I have a spare AAR and will go ahead and install a spare thermo time just for the heck of it. I can get one of those universal start switches as well hooked up.

stereo for me would be some mind blower speakers!

I wish I could, I am not very tech savy, YT used to have a video editor, but now I pretty much just load what I get. I forgot to turn off the camera duh..

I was thinking it would be nice to have a vette, early 90's but after watching wheeler dealers and seeing what a clutch takes to replace (torque tube) I decided my Z is way better. Again you have to keep the car and maintain it. Maybe for me its a age thing, but new cars look like toys to me. The new supra is a classic example looks like a plastic toy. I also don't need a car that can go 200 mph. Anyway curious to see what others would give up their Z to own. Agree that its prob more a nostalgia thing since I tend to like car styles that were popular in my youth.

hmm, is there a car you would rather have than your Z, lets say it just fall in your lap. Now the qualifier is you have to keep it, no selling to buy a bunch of Z's its going to be something you actually drive, maintain and insure. I go to car shows now and then, and never see anything I would want more than my Z for a driver (gas mileage/insurance/maintenance and fun). I kinda like E types, but cost of maintenance becomes an issue. No to American muscle (mustangs/vets/chevelles) mainly do to poor gas mileage, again I like to go on long trips..

more testing, new plugs spark not hooked up to dizzy, I wanted to see if the plugs had differing amount of gas on them (dampness). while cranking. Could not pickup any level of dampness. injectors clicking but did not seem as loud as I am used to. dropping resistors stone cold (maybe that is normal) 2.6 ohm resistance on injectors. I am still rigging up a rudimentary muffler since if I get it going I want to run it long enough to sort out the misfire. fuel pressure looks good. I will most likely pull the rail next, its not hard to get at and I really really want to see the injectors fire gas. I don't know if this is a problem but I do have the AFM hanging in an odd way, that would tend to have gravity keeping the flapping door closed. I did try holding the door open to see if I could get more gas deposited on the plugs, no joy. Added back the cold start valve that can be manually fired. Added a muffler so I can run without bugging the neabours.

ok members choose your actor, I claim Jimmy of course! of course dorfmann is prob a better fit!!

about the way my engine sounded

got the new plugs and some rad hoses last night. will install it the weekend with out the fan, just use a box fan in front of it (don't need the drama of an open fan running while testing). I think today I am going install the plugs and crank it ignition off (hope I have enough coffman cartridges..., come CO you gotta name that tune) take a look at the plugs for sign so fuel.

The only real ground I have is the neg cable to the eng block, the fat ones (same as pos to starter) the rest of its uses the thick aux cable off the battery term so no real ground so to speak back to the engine block. The ground to the engine that I could find was a single ground of the small harness that looks to be part of the BCDD, also had some distributor advance vacuum solenoid stuff. One thing I did not try was the other dizzy pickup, there is a central connector (wide hole) and two small holes, I presume for the different advance that is used for warm up etc.. The EFI harness itself did not have a ground wire, just a bat + and a bat - . Well marked I must add (small factory tags). Going out for new BR6ES ngks tonight, will give it another go tomorrow. Yes I would have like to just let it run for a while now that the cooling is taken care off. It was getting better sound the 1st time (no water) but I only had it going for about 1 min max. I agree that a longer run time may very well work out the issues.

Not much, it was local sourced, out of a 76, had some compression issues at 1st while testing on the test stand. I don't know how long it had been since it had been run. I did some leak down testing and tried pouring injector cleaner directly into the intake (the leaking valve) while it was leaking down. That seemed to help. adjusted a few of the valves replaced oil, that was it. the manifolds came with the engine as did the complete EFI harness. the injectors were in bad shape, only one clicked, I worked on them with solvent and eventually got 4 to work. I ended up using some injectors out of a 84 maxima after testing on the rail. has the spark plugs, distributor cap and wires that were on it when I got it. The cap had a lot of corrosion that I cleaned up, I did not see any arcing from the wires, still I suspect a some what weak spark on some of plugs may be the issue. I really just wanted to base line the engine and get a hot compression reading which turned out very well. I would like to hear it run on all 6, and hook up a rad to see if there is any head gasket leakage. As to what I will do with it.. hard to say I am tempted to see about a light boost turbo, but for that I would want to pull the head and a new head gasket. OR do I keep it as a spare OR do I make the most terrifying wood go kart, I have the trans and rear end and a rack for steering!!

one thing I have not done is to monitor the batter voltage. No alt installed and I don't have the battery charger on while its running. I wonder if I may be having low voltage issues?

more progress, I have it hooked up so can run water thru it, no T stat or rad just a garden hose connection on the bottom, and a hose to exit from the top. This will allow more extended testing. I tried it again, same results or worse, prob only 3 cylinders firing. I will get some new plugs and swap my cap/leads from my car since I know they are good. Read the plugs, then prob pull the fuel rail up and away from the manifold and manually fire them to see if there is a flow problem. I am 99% sure the injector seals are in there, you can just barely see them.

success sorta.. I got it to start but clearly a bad miss fire, pulling #1 #2 injector wire had no effect on the running engine. The plugs looked wet, so I removed them all and did a run to watch for spark all looked good. So not sure what is going on, wet plugs mean gas is there, maybe the spark was weak enough to not fire? Will start with some new plugs (I did clean the old ones up before using). if no improvement I will pull the rail and make sure I am getting a GOOD fuel flow from #1 #2. I can hear them clicking This is NOT your rail JSM its the orig with injectors from the maxima. I found it easier to install the old style rail. Then my battery charger took a dump. it has a hard wired fuse that needs to be replaced, I did have it connected while starting the engine, perhaps an inductive kick back from the solenoid did something it did not like. I hate smart charges, but finding an old school one is not easy now a days. anyway I will install a proper fuse holder on the back of the dump thing, and press on. Finally got to do a hot compression reading 165-170 on all. not bad at all!!