Dave WM

50 like he$$….

love the color!

Roger.

I was wandering around the JY, I saw some but IIRC hard to get at. I have air tools so hopefully the nut off will not be an issue.

My guess is the real issue is the pulley size as I only have issues with voltage sagging under about 2k, so normal driving is not an issue. And this is only with everything on (Light/AC fan being the biggest draws). I see a lot of swaps using the GM motors style where you mod the alt mount. It looks like the pulleys I see on those are smaller than the stock Nissan. So is the GM really any better with the stock size pulley? or to put it another way, is the GM getting spun to fast with a L28 spinning up to 6k rpm? I presume if those GM's were flying apart from over revving I would have read about it already.

wonder if this would work well for a 280z swap. replace the pulley and make some wiring mods (I have 75 so no need for charging light). think I would just need a switched power supply for the field coil. https://www.partsgeek.com/vj8ysk1-infiniti-j30-alternator.html 90 amps infinity J30

that's very odd, I thought it was reading that at idle in one of the earlier test when the engine was running.

I just don't get how that compression test can be so high. I wonder if there has been something done to the head? think I saw 30psi at about 17inhg, so that is looking good. Don't understand why you were getting 34 with the car running at about the same vacuum. I would not worry about psi with more greater vacuum than that, its not likely the engine will ever be operating with more that 18inhg, it only jumps up that high with quick throttle closure, and besides if the BCDD is working it should not do that either.

what I don't get is why the color of the plugs is so consistent. Did you try new plugs?

forgot to ask, where those new plugs with only a few miles on them? I like to read plugs that are brand new. Regarding ZH comment, you should make sure you are getting the resistance test for the AFM at the ECU 35 pin connector, that would make sure the wire harness is not an issue. I still think you should focus on getting that fuel pressure issue resolved 1st, no reason for it to be high like you were seeing.

good point about the power balance test.

you need to figure out why that pressure is so high, the EFI on this car has no Oxygen sensor so it has no idea if running rich or lean, so can not compensate with on/off time of injectors. So everything has to be right, sensor resistance, and fuel pressure are critical. I would not touch the AFM until you get that dialed in. You could test the FPR by hooking up a vacuum source like a brake bleed hand vacuum to the FPR, energize it using what ever means works (like solenoid off, key on) and read the fuel rail pressure, starting at atmospheric and then working the hand pump down to 18inhg to get to the 29psi. Do one thing at a time, start with that, then try a return line to a holding tank, eliminating one variable at a time. Main thing is to resolve on problem before moving on. Compensating for a fuel pressure problem with the AFM is not going to work, at best it may be ok for a range of RPM but not likely to work as it should.

another reason the psi could be high is a "stuffy" return line. try letting the return line drain into a holding tank with some long fuel hose.

did you see the fuel pressure change with the vacuum? as manifold vacuum decreases (less vacuum, no matter how say it does not seem right) FP should go up. with the engine off (no vacuum) pressure should be about 36 psi, idle should be 29psi, should vary between those with throttle, go even lower than the 29 psi as you snap the throttle closed and the vacuum shoot to 25inhg.

My guess is removing the oil filler cap will have NO effect on the idle. it should make is worse.

fuel pressure to high, with that kind of vacuum you should be close to 29psi at idle. are you sure the vacuum lead is connected to the FPR? is the fuel pressure changing with the vacuum? If those are newish plugs you are too rich, again too high a fuel pressure could account for that.

forgot to ask, how did the plug parts look before deoxit? bad green corrosion can travel up the wire under insulation. Also always a good thing to check is grounds and fuse links for solid connections. If you can make it "run rough" by revving it up, try listening to the injectors with a mech stethoscope. I assume the injectors are the stock ones that came with the car?

sure sounds like a fuel pressure issue to me. I assume the temp sensor resistance check was done at the ECU? I don't know why you deleted the CSV, unless you never plan to travel north. those compression figures look too high seems odd. for a stock engine. I agree with the old school approach for reading the plugs.

I wonder if the hardness of the strut mount insulators has changed with time? I installed new ones on front, can't recall if they felt different from the 43 yr old ones.

you have the idiot light sensor, not the gauge sensor. no pressure, contacts closed light comes on, with pressure contacts open, light goes off.

look in the index of the illustration, 57.

oh ok thx for clarifying I was getting lost

you posted two pics the top on that is covered in rubber is for the inner part of the arm, there are two sizes a long and a short. the bottom pic that is cover in steel is the for the outer part of the arm, two for each arm SAME size.

there are two types of the top, one is longer than the other you need a short and long for each side of the car on the rear suspension. not clear but it looks like # 64 in the illustration. I think the short one goes on the rear side of the inner control arm but you have it cut off so can't see the # for the front side. Just make sure you get two shorts and two longs. the lower pic is a #57 you need 4 in total all the same these go on the outer side of the control arm, two for each side of the car. the #57 can be very hard to remove, I would not bother unless they are shot. the inside ones are a bit easier as long as there is not a lot of rust on #61 bolt.

hopefully the AC works, they are a blast to drive, and not your typical 57 chevy or 60's muscle car. Good gas mileage to..."Datsun Saves" Awesome!!! check out some of the old 70's era commercials on you tube, it explains a lot about style.