Dave WM

I suspect the failure mode prob has to do with rust/dry rot of long term non use.

mine looks Orig, so 46 years so far. just triple check the form, there are two types one with 3 outlets and one with 2 (later models IIRC).

hard to say, obviously an OE would be best but maybe harder to source. I would go cheap, bosch if you can find one, but who knows prob all made in the same factory now. dont really think the life time stuff is worth it.

nice, mine is long gone to some flea market at the thunderbird drive in. Had a pointy front and a squared off back with a little kick piece glued to the back.

in deed, skate parks, wow, went to a few of those. I recall one that was built but nver officially opened (liablity issues prob) anyway they put a chain link fence all around it (was HUGE right of I-95 near commercial blvd in so fla. Sneak in and go crazy with no adult in sight, just 100 skate boarders going nutz. It was fun. I was a bit too old to try the nuttier stuff the 12-13 yr olds were pulling like hand stands down the giant hill to get up speed, then up a wall just to lose it in free space and fall on their butz. I had an old solid thick board with sand paper glued on it. fun stuff until the ambulance shows up.

ok that ties it, new FPR time IMHO.

CHIP's ponch and jon, pretty much explored every dumb fad that the 70's covered, I think it peaked at celebrity roller disco.. This ride would would fit right in.

sorry my bad, the gauge is between the fuel FILTER and the pressure rail. or just take a pic of the setup

and that is with the pressure gauge connected between the fuel pump and the fuel rail. do one more test with the starter disabled (solinoid wire pulled off), key to start (so engine off but pump runs) this time disconnect the cold start valve connector so it cant fire. Get a reading while the key is in the START posistion. You need to read it while the key is held in start while the pump is actually running. It will drop the instant you release the key. you want the pressure while the pump is running. I just want to see that odd ball low reading one more time.

for those of us that lived the 70's this is pretty much typical of fashion sense.

makes the stock 78 bumpers look great by comparison.

yes that OR a plugged return line in the fuel tank. If the tank was coated with a liner like "red kote" and the lines were not blown clear with compressed air, I would be concerned with a clog (that is what the red kote is designed to do after all clog holes...)

I hate to recommend replacement of parts unless you know for sure.. Your call on that one. But 1st things 1st try the return bucket test. I would also like to know the test gauge is working as it should. this would require some kind of comparison test with a known PSI source or a known working gauge. and yes that is the video, you can see how the FPR begins to bleed at 36 psi.

more likely a defect in the FPR. I have a video showing testing the FPR with compressed air. See my youtube channel Dave WM

yes

fyi, the low pressure 30 psi engine off pump on makes no sense what so ever, I am throwing that aside for now.

the idea is do you still get those over 40 psi readings with the engine running.

you are just going to run a quick test, 2 gall should be fine.

I would start with the unrestricted fuel test, there has to be a reason for the high pressure, assuming the intake in a vacuum.

ok thats better, now move on to the return line disconnected test. watch out for the gas, make sure you have it going into a secure container so as not to spill raw fuel all over.

I am not a believer in replacing parts unless you know for sure they are bad. Do you have a vacuum gauge? if so what does the vacuum read on the intake manifold while idling, use the same hose connection point you are using for the FPR.

Next test will be to remove the return line from the fuel rail and have it dump directly into a empty container. The idea is to remove any possible restriction int the return line to the tank. Perform the engine running test again. Watch out for the gas coming out of the line, you will have to stop the engine before you over flow your catch basin.

ew Battery Voltage Reading: Everything OFF = 12.48 Volts, Engine Running = 12.12 Volts Lets deal with this 1st, so with the engine off Key off you get 12.48 at the battery terminal, but with the engine on and the motor running you get 12.12 volts at the battery terminals? That would indicate a charging problem. Will get back to the fuel later but have to understand what is going on.

any updates? inquiring minds would like to know.

you would be alarmed at how often we have gotten post about reading that suddenly are completely different when done again. Just want to make sure. Do exactly has ZH has described. The hardest part of remote diagnostics is generally some minor overlooked observation (wrong line connected, battery cable corroded, volt meter not read properly). trying to avoid rabbit holes is paramount. hence the need for doing exactly the procedure as asked. Hang in there you will get it worked out, and it will be sweet when you do!