DaveR

I'm not terribly surprised its gummed up after sitting for 30 years. Surprised he had a leak that fast 30k original miles, but its entirely possible. I took off a few more hoses near the Y after the heater core, and the Y itself and the hoses are very clean without build up. I also drained the engine at the block and there wasn't anything going on there either. Flowed out like a river and all over the floor hah. The fluid is very green after coming out, doesn't look any different than any other fluid i've taken out of a car. I ran the garden hose through the radiator and while a few things and milkyness came out at the start it wasn't too bad. There were a few little hard candy chunks in there, but nothing huge (at least that made its way out) I want to take off the water pump and thermostat to get a look inside those as well, but that's it for this weekend. I'll certainly have to find a way to run/loop some flush through the engine. I'll work on what will dissolve it, man its rock solid though. I wish i hadn't cleaned out the pipes so quickly so i could use those for tests. I can get my hands on a pressure washer, so I suppose it's a matter of where and with what to push through the block. I'm just starting my disassembly process of the carbs and fuel system, so I will be gaining more access as time goes on. I'd prefer not to take off the intake/exhaust manifolds if I can help it, but doesn't seem like I will need to unless those freeze plugs are really hard to work on. Also stinks that because the car isn't running yet, I can't use the heat cycling of the engine to move fluid around, and I don't really want to put everything back together with fresh bits to then clog them up with crap coming out of the engine.

Starting inspecting the cooling system today, and it is quite gummed up. The top of the thermostat was almost totally blocked, and the little Y piece down by the water pump was basically totally blocked off as well. I plan to replace the water pump and possibly the radiator (not sure how I know if i need to, unless these signs are evidence enough) and obviously clean out all the lines I can get to... but should I be worried about blockages inside the engine? I'll be running a ton of water through it to make sure I clean it out as best I can once it comes time.... but I just don't know what I am really looking at and how bad it could possibly be. Maybe it just built up there because that's where the coolant sat when the engine was turned off? Assuming the thermostat was closed and the water pump wasn't letting the coolant by, i suppose this is where it would pool? Hopefully it drains out from everywhere else. What are the options for radiator replacements? I don't require the OEM look, I think the aluminum ones look pretty good. I would like to get one that can handle a possibly L28 upgrade in the future, if there is a difference in performance I need to be aware of. I would also like to keep the cooling fan original for the time being if possible. Thanks all Really hoping I don't also have to replace the heater core, although i really don't ever plan to drive in the cold if it is. I should mention that the buildups are like rock hard and I have to chip away at them with a screwdriver to break it up.

Got out in the garage a bit this weekend, and a few more things taken apart. Rear brakes are stripped down and ready for some new hardware/brake cylinders and brake hoses. I'll need to fabricate a new hardline around the wheel hub and new flare nuts because I had to destroy things to get them out. Not a huge deal. I ripped out the AC components as well, all except the AC radiator jiggy whose mounting screws are trapped behind the cooling system radiator. There was a large bracket to hold the AC compressor and the tensioning pulley. It used 2 common bolts that hold up the fuel rail around the engine, and a 3rd bolt down at the base of the Distributor. (as well as 2 closer to the fuel pump which I don't think had a secondary purpose) I think the 2 smaller bolts for the fuel rail were just the original bolts pulled out a bit to capture the bracket metal, but the bolt near the distributor is probably not original. It even had a little standoff spacer to help bridge the distance to the bracket. I want to put the correct bolt back in place, but I have no idea what length it wants to be, any help? (it is the double red circle in the picture attached). In general I am hoping most of the bolts used where the originals and besides the distributor one it doesn't appear that any of them are that important. In other news, is there any easy way to break the little spacer block free of the fuel pump? Its stuck on there pretty good but I need to fit up my replacement using that block again and some new gaskets. Thanks all

So I've looked around a lot, read a lot of threads from many different forums and really looked at what I want out of the tire. Currently I am debating between the Yokohama S.Drives and Direzza DZ102. Considering I am just beginning my Z ownership, and have a while before I fully trust/know the car and its limits... I think a more well rounded tire suits me better. Ride comfort and low noise being very important, and crisp steering and response being secondary. When I get to the point where I can make use of the higher performance then I will consider something more. The tires are looking like they will be 205/55R15. It's a bit smaller than stock height, 23.8 vs 24.7... but hopefully it looks good enough with my stock suspension (for now). Ultimately I will lower it a tad, and hopefully it fills out better then. I know the DZ102's are supposed to run narrow, so that's a piece of information for people concerned about rubbing. (Dunlop says 8.4" wide at 205/55) I read whatever is around for the new DZ102's and very early feedback seems decent. I know the DZ101's were very questionable in the wet, but the new design appears to be much improved. There is a good miata boards thread i came across with good feedback from another light coupe platform, and it seems like a good compromise. Plus it's a new tire, with a new mold for that size... so hopefully they will be around for a bit. Anyway, I'm sure I will have feedback about them (albeit with no other Z tires to compare them to) so feel free to message me in the future if I do end up buying them. The S.Drives are a bit more proven, but the worry about being noisy is really what turned me off, I don't want to deal with that whatsoever.

Can you quickly confirm the plug sizes and QTY's for your balance tube plugs for the smog delete? I want to pick a few up but i'm not 100% certain which ones I need. Thx

Good to know about the RA1. While it may be "the best tire for 15x7 right now", I personally am not super comfortable having a Race and Autocross only tire as my sole rubber option. Maybe that is just how they are classified from the manuf., but even then with a treadwear of only 100 I think i'll go with something a bit more rounded and not classified as track only.

Relevant info: Stock 71 240 Wheels not yet purchased Tires will be almost exclusively for dry spirited street usage, possibly limited autocross in the future Near future plans for type1 front air dam Few years from now possible plans for light suspension modification and slight lowering Very limited mileage will be put on them Tire property priorities 1) Steering response 2) Minimal road noise 3) Ride comfort (I expect it to be sporty, just don't want it harsh) 4) Stability 5) Traction Car will avoid the wet whenever possible, and babied if unavoidable. There are lots of threads talking about preferred widths and sidewall heights, and various suspension setups. The problem is that a lot of these tires are no longer available in 15" sizes. I haven't bought wheels yet, but I really want 15's and going 16 just for tire choices would really be too bad. Ideally I would like a 195/60 tire, possibly a 205/60 since I will go with a front air damn before too long on my 71 240z otherwise stock. Tire rack is very limited for the 195, and even for 205 only has higher performance all season. I'm not finding much better choices anywhere else either. Maybe Goodyear eagle sport all seasons. I realize I won't be pushing these tires to the limit on track, but even still it seems silly to put All seasons on a car that will barely see rain much less snow. Things open up a little more if you consider 195/55 or 205/55 and you get some Summer tires on the map again. Of course if I did bump to 16 I could run 195/55R16 Potenza RE760s. Any advice would be appreciated.

So, been learning more about distributor choices. Can you guys speak to the timing curve differences between 240/280/280zx distributors and how they might affect which I select? Can any of them be modified via springs or other methods like other distributors? Furthermore, the major question mark with the ZX dizzys is the condition of the module, and with replacements being expensive and hard to find. What are the options for other modules if an E12-80 is not a possibility? What are the drawbacks/strengths of these other options vs the E12-80 that people always seem to be talking about? It's pretty incredible what you can learn in a short amount of time. I knew practically nothing about setting timing and advance curves last night, and while I still no next to nothing today, it's still miles ahead of where I was. The power of the internet and the contributions of communities members.

My wife has volunteered to try and dye it. I'm inclined to let her when it gets warmer out, it can't get any worse.

Bumping for a good thread, and my man Blue who has popped up on every little project I have researched for the future. I am interested in what the longest run of a single piece of tubing is. Napa sells at longest 72" which is definitely not long enough for the front to back single run, but I would prefer to use straight/coated tubing so the lines are as clean as possible. Of course if my current lines are okay I will shelf the project for a while, but nice to know it can be done without buying expensive replacement kits.

Dibs on the rear deck carpet, mine has faded from the sun apparently and has become a dull grey. Carpet kits are around, but I can't find many that sell just that rear carpet. Everything else is mint. In other new, going back to brakes for a moment. This is the master cylinder currently installed. i have the original around still as well. So the question becomes, is it easy enough to swap around the brake circuit to work with the one you see above (will have to clarify brand/make if needed) or should I rebuild the original one? The PO prior to selling it was attempting to get the brakes sorted out and I think the cylinder reversal was throwing them for a loop. I'm sure with your guys help I can easily figure out what I need to do, but if rebuilding the original is simple I could go that route easily as well. I'm not requiring OEM for this system, just to have it functioning well without overspending and not having to butcher any more tubing/hose that I need to. edit: Seems like I just need to make new hardlines that connect the circuit closest to the firewall on the master cylinder, to the port furthest from the firewall on the bit below, and vice versa. Seems like its time to learn to bend some brake line!

Can you guys give me a run down of the major parts sources I should be keeping tabs on? There seem to be so many, and its hard to know which serve what purpose and how used they are. Since I know what upgrades are likely to be in my future, its useful for me to get all these avenues on my radar so I can wait for parts to come to me in due time. Examples might include: Large online retail outlets (rockauto, etc) Specially devoted datsun parts websites (Zstore, Datsunparts.com, etc) Z forums with active classifieds sections (doesn't seem like much of that is done on here?) Datsun devoted classifieds websites Parts finders for junkyards, other used auto parts? Methods to search for local junkyards, pick and pulls, places with inventories of cars, etc. I realize this might be a large thing to ask, but even if there was another resource I could consult it would be very helpful as I start to track down distributor parts, and consider other upgrades from later Z models. Thanks all

I'm not against doing that, but I will admit being new to these older cars that distributors are still fairly new to me. Where would I go about sourcing the parts for a 280z style swap and what all would I need? I really need to find some junkyards around me to look for these part swaps....

Originally I was going to use the pertronix kit. Well I was always going to, but I got a bit of sticker shock early on when I was assuming I might have to replace a ton of stuff and I didn't technically need that ignition upgrade right away. Now that I have a better idea that I might not have to shell out QUITE so much money to get this thing safely on the road, I will probably go that route and get away from the points immediately. My first big wave of parts/bits will most likely include: -Tune up kit: plugs, filters, etc etc -Plug wires -Electronic ignition kit -Fluids: Oil, Trans Fluid, Rear diff fluid. (I really like to know exactly what fluids I am using, even if they don't need to be changed) -New soft brake lines, new hard lines in wheel wells if I need them. -Either rebuild kits for cylinders/calipers or new -Assorted soft fuel lines in engine bay area. The rear shoes and drums look good enough, I have an extra set of front calipers so it looks like maybe they were swapped in preparation to sell, so I will see how those work. Pads are new and good enough for now. I have to figure out how to hose up this different master cylinder though, but I want to have the corners worked out before I get into that. I'm tempted to buy a rebuild kit and fix up the original, but probably no reason to do that. I'll need to then dig into the carb and cooling system and see if those need anything, but that can wait for now. Getting the brakes and fuel delivery squared away will be a massive step in getting this thing road ready.

As nice as some of the stuff is, other stuff is incredibly seized up. For instance the brake line going into my drivers side rear drum cylinder is very very stuck. Bolt likes to round off with a crescent wrench (10mm) and i can't get a pair of vice grips in there to break it loose. I got the others free with the vice grips for the initial break, but its way too tight in there to get them in. I've soaked the heck out of with penetrating fluid, I suppose an option left is to torch it a bit. Probably should wash all the fluid off it before doing that, or I assume I'll burst into flames. I looked in the FSM to see if i could take the cylinder off with that fitting/brake line still attached and work on it off the car... but I don't think I can get it out with the lever arm of the cylinder needing to be snaked through itself.

Started taking a look around and checking out the fuel tank/evap. Things look pretty good if you ask me, I'm not seeing a big reason to replace this stuff. I'll replace the fuel lines out of the tank, but all the evap and filler stuff seems really good. The filler tube is pretty nice on the inside, can't confirm its connection to the tank. The hose clamp is quite oxidized, but doesn't really mean much for the health of the tube AFAIK. I drained the tank, and while I think it might have had fresh gas put it in recently, almost nothing can out of the tank but clear liquids. I was planning to drop the tank and look inside just to clarify, but given that the J bolts weren't wanting to budge... I'm not sure i should even bother. I plan to replace the flexible fuel lines and spray some injector cleaner through the hardlines while inspecting them. Hopefully that is sufficient for the rear end. Of course in the engine bay I will change out the other soft lines and filters and such. The evap lines under the car are pretty decent as well. Not sure at what point this stuff needs to be replaced, but it would be great to limit the replacements right now to just the fuel carrying lines.

Excellent advice, thank you.

It's pretty shallow, probably only just barely catch able by a fingernail. The one on the fender even less so. Doesn't seem like it's so bad, so maybe what they quoted isn't way out of whack. Still sad that it happened though

So here's another question for you guys. The car was scratched a bit during transport, and the shipping company (Horseless Carriage) is offering me $200 to have the scratches buffed out. I have no idea how paint work is done on these old cars, and if this is a reasonable amount for the work that needs to be done. Because the car is not currently running I can't bring it anywhere to have it looked at. What do you guys think? Can you give me any details about the paint on these cars so I might be better equipped on the phone when talking to body shops? They are not terribly deep, and not super noticeable from all angles. I just want the option to have them fixed properly if that is what I decide to do.

It began with simply the question about which tranny fluid would best suit my 71 4speed, since I am refreshing it after sitting in storage for 30 years prior to my ownership. I don't have any seat time with the transmission yet as there are other systems needing work before I can drive it, but if there was a defacto fluid I would replace it during my process and hopefully minimize the issues I might see in the future. My personal preference would be towards shifting performance, which is why I was leaning towards the Synchromesh. There are only 29,000 miles on the car, so its very young. And someday I would probably swap in a 5 speed, so even if there was a slight degrade over time it probably would never come onto my radar at least with the 4spd. That said, I plan to own the car for a long time to come, so I don't want to regret a hasty/under informed decision I make now.

So whats been said in this thread conflicts a bit with what I have read elsewhere. Specifically about the GLS synchromeshs and their sulfur content (or lack of) It appears a lot of the statements may refer to information from a Penzoil tech about their equivalent product, but there is also mention of GM's version as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/46974-report-on-gm-syncromesh-trans-fluid/ Clearly people will have differing beliefs about something like this, and Chickenman certainly seems like an informed party on this topic. Just wondering if there is any more clarity I could get before I pull the trigger on the Friction modified stuff vs just Redline MT90. Thanks all

Siteunseen, (saw your post in another thread) can you shed some light into the bending of the rear brake hardlines that is required to move to the 1972+ wheel cylinders? With no rebuild kits available, and my rear brakes certainly needing some love... I want to weigh my options. You also mentioned swapping L to R hard lines in the back to make it easier. Were you at all worried when bending those lines that you were going to damage them or introduce a weak point? Thanks

It was, but not for very long. I'd been searching 100% of Craiglist daily for the last 6 or so months to keep tabs on prices and trends. Bought a house in September with a 2 car garage, and it made ownership of a classic a reality at long last. I knew I wanted a 240, I knew I wanted it red, and I knew I wanted the body/paint as good as i could get them. I actually flew out there to inspect it in person and close the deal. Was very happy to become the second owner, especially with a PO who clearly cherished it just as much as I certainly will. Glad to carry the torch from here. I'll shoot him a letter when I have it all sorted out and its humming again. Never thought I would go to another northern/snowy state to buy a minimal rust 240, but hey... it worked out that way. This is the car that sealed my fate on future z ownership: Needless to say, that's what I am aiming for. I do need to figure out a decent tire to run with those 15" Panasports though. I am partial to Continental DW, but they don't make them in 15" sizes.

Sellers were in Brookfield, and this one has been sitting in storage since 1980. It was clearly loved dearly before it was stored, as I have every receipt and scrap of paper from the day it was bought new. Even receipts for $2 for new fuel filters I don't think it saw many winters prior to going into storage, and original paperwork shows it had rustproofing done at the time of purchase. I'm sure there is SOME rust somewhere, but I've looked pretty good and it's definitely elusive and minimal. As long as i don't screw it up, I'm sure I won't have much to worry about it for a long time. That said, what can I do to prevent any rust from forming in the future? I don't plan to drive it in anything but warm sunny days, but are there areas I can seal up now to prevent water from creeping where it doesn't belong? (i'm thinking the spots where it runs under the firewall and destroys the floor pans?) I don't want to feel like I am doing damage just by washing the car, so anything I can put in place at the start of my ownership I will gladly do. It's obviously garage kept, without any sun to cause harm. -Dave

Mostly I was just wondering if replacing the hardlines was a common thing with a car that has been sitting for so long. I guess since the fuel shouldn't ever be sitting in them if they are parked for a while, there isn't a big reason they would be rotted out. Maybe just gunky and in need of a good cleaning. Good to know. I was planning to pump some aerosol injector cleaner through the hard lines to get the process moving along quicker, and of course keeping an eye on the filter once it's running again.