sweatybetty

is this the correct bracket for the rear hatch strut? it looks like an add-on to me. it a 72 240. thanks all sb

seems the easy fix would be to drill out the end holes just a bit. might allow enough room for expansion without shearing off the stud. do these studs go into the water jacket? . BTW, the Nissan-sanctioned explanation that the end studs break off because the manifold expands as it gets up to operating temperature is interesting. The hole in the manifold flange for the stud measures 0.56 diameter, while the max diameter of the 8mm stud is 0.33" (8.34mm). If the hole is centred over the stud when the manifold is dropped in place (maybe a bad assumption), that would allow about 0.1" of radial clearance before wall of the manifold hole comes into contact with stud. That suggests that the exhaust manifold must be expanding lengthwise to the tune of 0.08" - 0.12" at each end (or by up to 0.24" from front to rear!). That seems hard to believe. Maybe it's more a question of manifold fore-aft misalignment during assembly?

my question would be: why mess with it? unless there was an exhaust leak (you really dont state what the problem is) i would just leave it alone. i have an old dodge power wagon with a couple of the exhaust manifold studs broken off and everything works fine. why take the chance of making things worse if there is no real problem (other than a broken stud) to start with?

perfect. thank you

at your convenience......

would you mind? a closer of the hatch weatherstripping would be great. thanks

sorry, its a 72 240

could someone post a clear, semi close-up picture of the rear hatch seals and of the center taillight trim piece? i think im missing the center trim. thanks all sb

a little progress this past week. we had a cold front move in, so its a bit hard to get motivated when i can only get the shop up to about 55* battery tray area fixed and sealed seam sealer applied epoxy sealed

1972 240z i have a few questions that i cant find the answers to 1 on the wiring schematic there is a light? that is labeled step. is this a light in the door or where? 2 what is the white wire that forms a loop on the back of the tach, and where does it go and what does it do? 3 should i have a choke "on" light, and where should it be? 4 did all consoles have a cover? mine looks like some after-market-jury-rigged crap. is this normal? thanks all sb

on my 72 the bumper is touching the crossmember

if you have the extra $$$$ http://www.justdashes.com/2015/09/just-dashes-saves-botched-dash-restoration-for-a-datsun-240z/

thank you all. i did do a search but i dont think i put in the correct wording.

of this panel. does anyone know if these are available new? thanks all sb

been a busy week getting this pig ready for epoxy-sealer. i left the heat in my shop on set a 62* and that stopped any possibility of rust. cant wait for the power bill epoxy went on this morning. what a difference

i just bought it. i imagine a rheostat isnt too hard to find. i plan on replacing the entire wiring harness anyhow. way too many wires and connectors!

any ideas about what these markings are? january 8th? this is where the steering column bolts to the dash thanks all sb

car went to the blaster yesterday.when i originally talked to him, he said his rate was $140/hour. holy $%&^$$$! so when i dropped the car off i told him to stop at 2 hours. he did everything but the bottom and the roof for $245. he could have done the roof but didnt want to damage it since it is a large, flat panel. what a difference! this guy is my new best buddy! and the ugly spot, under the battery. i did forget to get a gallon of primer, so im a little worried about flash-rust, but i think it will be ok until monday.

neither of the cables for the fresh air vents would work. here is how i fixed them. here is the rusted, broken cable this is probably the most important step. the rod where the cable is attached is hollow and tapered. cut no more than 3/16" off with a cut-off wheel. this leaves a clean cut which is needed to get the rest of the cable out of the rod. tap the rod on something and what is left of the cable will fall out. then re-taper the rod with a bench grinder or a file so you have something like this. now you are ready for new cable. the cable should go in about 1/4". if you cut off too much earlier, there may not be enough to get a good crimp. i used a set of wire crimpers to clamp down the cable in the rod. it is quite secure. i imagine solder would work as well. now, put the cable back in the housing all the way and close the damper. mark the cable where it lines up with the hole in the damper and bend it at 90* run that bend into the damper and finish the bend with some pliers. good as new

thank you all. i dont quite know if some p.o. took the reostat out, or there ever was one. i found the spot on the bottom of the dash but there isnt anything there.

thank you guys!

how do i get the z emblems just behind the side rear window off? there doesnt seem to be access from behind them. thanks all sb

hello all! first off, i would like to thank all of you who post here, as there is a lot of information to learn from. i bought my 72 z from a young guy about a month ago. he had it sitting on a trailer with a for sale sign asking $850 obo. i offered $750 if he would deliver it and he jumped on that! it seems he bought the car in 04 from some tweaker that loved to spray paint things black, which may have helped slow some of the rusting down. any how, the p.o. is a line-man and travels around America working and never found time to do much with the car and finally decided to sell. it has been sitting in a dry barn since 04. i bought a battery, starter, oil psi gauge, temp gauge and some carb kits and the engine runs very well with good oil pressure. one worry gone! anyhow here are some pics of what i bought and where i am now. i will try to keep this post up dated as thing go forward thanks all sb triple webers 40dcoe original dash no cracks at all! passenger side floor pan before and after drivers side i replace the floor support on both sides with 16 gauge steel that runs from front to rear tweaker speaker holes. the cowl drains are right above these holes. no wonder the floor pans were rusted. tweaker paint job. just in case you dont know its a 240z! i found a bit more rust under the battery tray, so i decided to strip the car and send it off to the sandblaster. he will do the engine bay, all the door posts and window frames for $200. all in a few hours. that will happen this coming week http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/sweatybetty1/100_1202_zpslclmuerf.jpg

thank you all. i may try some clothing die on a small piece and see what that does. all the sharpie marks came right off with xylene.