sweatybetty

older chrysler ignition modules are the same way. keep a spare in the glove box

pictures help alot

what year is that car?

that drawing makes perfect sense. the guy i bought the car from bought it from a tweaker, so who knows? i will put the crossmember the way it should be and go from there. but, my original question still stands. can heat build up in the trans tunnel contribute to vapor lock, if the lines are in the tunnel?

mine is has a 1/72 build date. what are "later" years?

i found that the right rear wheel bearings and spindle pin have been changed, so that is entirely possible. but, the exhaust was run down the right hand side.

all the lines on my car (72) are in the upper right side of the tunnel. the "cutout" for the exhaust on that crossmember is also on the right side ill post some pics later

one forum i used to visit substituted any foul language with "my tiny brain only knows 4 letter words" and "ignorance made audible"

i read what seems to be quite a few threads where vapor lock seems to be the problem. has anyone thought that the fuel line runs right down the transmission tunnel just a few inches above the exhaust pipe for 4-5 feet. seems sitting in traffic this might be a perfect place for vapor lock to start. has anyone ever tried wrapping the exhaust or some type of shield around the fuel line in the trans tunnel? just some thoughts............

fed ex made my day. also brought new struts, rubber brake lines, fuel line and a rear brake proportioning valve. i was kind of surprised at the springs. the picture on ebay showed them as red. would have matched the paint. no biggie. so now all the brake lines to each corner are done, and i plan on painting all the rear suspension today. should have the rear end back in tomorrow. then comes the front end.

a few specks of dust but thats all

wanna bet? i bet i have 20 hours into bumping and filling and sanding just the roof.

pm sent

to test that switch, make a mark on the dial, and one on the other part so they line up when it "clicks". then put the whole thing in a freezer for a while. turn the dial and see if the marks still line up when it "clicks" if they do not, then the switch is probably still good.

i never had a chance to drive the car. the p.o. replaced all the brakes.

not yet that is over spray

there are 4. maybe for a later year?

i started tearing into my suspension and found this. i am aiming this question toward the guys that are not familiar with brakes. i know some will spot the problem right off, so let the in-experienced have a guess, ok?

i bought the energy suspension master kit and it came with these. does anyone know where they go?

old bushings out. hole saw works wonders. just keep it lubed with some type of oil.

i bought one of their kits for my jeep. plain and simple, garbage. i ended up buying another brand that was much better quality and less money. from that, i will say i will not buy an acc carpet kit for my z.

that is nasty!!!

the push-rod isn't attached to the disc. it just sits in a hole. you can pull the push rod out of the booster simply by pulling it and the rubber seal straight out. here is a pic of the booster taken apart.

looks nice.