Matthew Abate

All I see is the note on page ST 11: “Check inner ball joint for play. When ball stud is worn and play in axial direction is excessive or joint is hard to swing, replace as complete unit.”

I DID! Thanks. I’m not going to go as far as you did. I’m on the fence right now about using the new inner TREs I have or reusing the old ones. Probably the new ones.

Cool! Any idea when so I can find it?

Yeah, I did that, too. Stuff flew all over the place. Luckily I had it pointing away from me.

Okay, looks like I have the right parts, so I bought the SKF stuff. Now I’m disassembling the rack per the Cap’n’s write up: Just need to figure out if these old inner TREs are rebuildable/reusable.

I’m getting ready to jump into rebuilding my steering rack. Anyone aware of any gotchas I need to look out for before I start? I know there’s a pretty detailed write up on this forum and I plan to dig into that now, but I thought I’d ask just to make sure. —- edit: ive found the piñon bearing (Timken 6003-rs for $24.40, SKF 6003z for $9.30) and a seal (CR6641 for $19.05, SKF6641 for $9.54) that might be right. Just not sure about the seal and don’t want to open it up if I can’t replace it. thoughts?

This happened: This is all single stage. The exterior will be two stage.

No. Interested?

Yes, 918. It looks great, I just hadn’t seen it up close in real life. I’ve only seen one 918 Z in my life and it was 200ft away going the opposite direction on an interstate. I'm stoked for it, but I was a bit surprised by it. The photos you find online are no way to tell, and it wasn’t the original orange when I bought it. I held this photo (found somewhere on this site) up to the samples and they were really close:

Done. Mogul Gear 300 75w90. Bolts triple checked for torque. New gaskets, new everything except the case, bearings, and gears. No leaks. I had to scrap the old cover because the mating surface was shot from sitting in. Yard for years. Luckily the case is fine, and a new cover and gasket solved the problem.

Looks like we’re within specifications (.1 to .2 mm)! Time to close it up and call this p.i.t.a. done.

Just took at look at the paint samples my painter laid down yesterday. They look GREAT! That orange is browner than I thought, but it matches the photos and samples I have. I forgot to take pictures, but I’ll see if I can get him to send me some.

Something I’ve always wondered about these is what to do about the emblem holes in the hatch. Is there one where the topmost one isn’t still visible?

Bump

View Advert 1973 240z Hood - Needs Work This hood is original to my 1973 240z. It has a crease on the left edge and needs some bodywork to smooth out some impressions. It was stripped and primed professionally for storage. A skilled body worker should be able to get this back to great condition. I’m open to offers, but need you to pick it up in NJ (07040). Shipping these is a major hassle. See the photos for details. Advertiser Matthew Abate Date 06/29/2019 Price $250.00 Category Parts for Sale

I’m buying a dial indicator tonight so I can do this. I’m thinking I scrambled my shims in reassembly, but I’m going to measure the bearing preload before I do anything. If that’s off then my total shim measurement is wrong. If it’s right then at least that’s a starting point and all I have to figure out is how off the backlash is. right?

Okay, questions for everyone: I had to go get a new cover and input flange for the Subaru r180 that I refreshed, and once I got it all together I noticed some lash or play in the front. I didn’t have this with the previous input flange, but that may have been masked by the dent in the collar, which is what motivated me to replace it. Here’s a video. You can hear a knocking sound when I wiggle the flange: 26EE4460-F9DA-4CB6-B3D3-32EAC1D8972E.MOV When I did this refresh, I replaced everything but the bearings. It only had about 10,000 miles on it (it’s off a 2014 WRX STI) so I figured they were okay. I DID replace the side shims, but I used the exact same amount of shim on each side as the ones I pulled. I also did not measure the lash with dealer gauges(probably my biggest mistake), because I had matched the shim measurement and the bearings were the same. My Datsun diff does not have this problem. Right now I’m thinking I need thicker shims on one or both sides, but I wanted to see what people think the issue is before I tear it apart again. If you think I need bearings I should do that at the same time. Regardless, it looks like I need a dial gauge because I don’t think I can measure this with feeler gauges. Thoughts?

Got a good on eBay. A little surface rusty but should work out. Fingers crossed!

Thanks everyone. I found one in Washington that is in good shape and cheap enough for me to pull the trigger on it. I almost went repro, but I’m crossing my fingers that this one will work out. thanks for the help.

Yeah, my painter says no go. Thanks for the attempt, though! right now I’m wondering if a repro would be easiest, even though it’s most expensive.

Thanks. Yes. I found three that might work. It's hard to evaluate one of these on the photos people post. We all have different ideas of what "straight" means.

i Haven’t found anything on Craigslist but I have found several on eBay or on retailer sites. another question: does anyone know if these two holes are factory or if I should close them up? You're looking up into the passenger floorboard from the front right wheel well.

Yes please!

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So my painter waited until the week before he wants to spray the car to tell me I need a new hood. Anyone have any ideas on where to source one that doesn't need body work? I'm watching a few on eBay that look like they would need filling or welding. And then there are the repros.