Matthew Abate

@EuroDat is that first one a legit resource? Looks suspect given the other Nissan parts websites all say NLA. @jerz I saw that, but was hoping to get my hands on one faster than Part Souq can get it to me. The things I’ve purchase there all took months to arrive. I might try Amayama if I can’t get it faster than they can, which is the 26th.

I am in the middle of having my 5 speed rebuilt and ran into a major issue. The shop tells me I can't move forward without replacing the 1st gear bushing (PN: 32253-14600), which turns out to be NLA. Not only is the original NLA, the supersessions seem to be as well. If anyone (who isn't a scammer) wants to sell me one, please send me a direct message. If anyone knows of an alternate part that isn't in the supersession list, please let me know! Supersession Part Number: 32253-14611 Replaces: 32253-14600, 32253-14601

I’ve seen a ton of people switch to LEDs for their instruments, and I’ve seen a bunch of people say not to because it can be too bright. I’m also saw someone worked out a way to make a dimmer that works for LEDs. Well, that may not be necessary. In trying to locate that how-to thread I stumbled upon three dimmers for LED instrument lights: Autometer https://www.autometer.com/led-lighting-dimmer.html Classic Instruments https://shop.classicinstruments.com/leddim New Vintage USA https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/led-lighting-dimmer/ I’m going to dig into reviews on these and see if any of them stands out. I’m guessing there are others as well.

After taking a second look at the illustration from Fujitsubo of the r200 compatible EPU and comparing that to the photo xs10shl posted of his installed SG pipes, I think one of my open questions is indirectly answered. I was trying to figure out if the r200 version works with the factory crossmember that supports the r180, because it has the indentations for the twin system. The space between the pipes immediately to either side of the differential doesn’t look that far apart, but I’m guessing there’s no way it tucks into those indentations, because they have two versions of the EPU exhaust and not just one that works with both differentials. All this is inference, obviously, but I will bet that’s the situation.

@xs10shl That looks great! I wanted the mild steel version as well as the ceramic header, but they weren’t going to ship for at least four months so I went with all stainless, but all the factors you listed were a big part of it.

Not sure why you’re taking this conversation personally and starting a second flame war in the same thread. There’s no need for personal attacks. No one came at you. And, by the way, the manufacturers were unresponsive, as previously stated.

Asking questions and expecting clear answers to be able to compare two components that are ostensibly the same is reasonable. The retailers who sell the Fujitsubo kit are inconsistent in the information the provide. The O2 boss is a great example. All of the Super Ex + Legalis kits are advertised as working on a 280z, which would require one. Only one retailer I found mentions it. Fitting on a left hand drive car is another great example. One retailer says one model fits, another says the same model doesn’t fit. Maybe it’s not Fujitsubo’s fault the information isn’t out in the world in a way that makes the choice easy, but I was pretty set on their system being right for me until I started really looking at it. They’ve also changed it twice in that time. It’s better than it was when I started looking at it, but you can still get the old ones and making sure you’re getting what you think you’re getting is key on a $3,000 part. I also know more now, and while it may be great, I understand what I should be looking for and am moving in another direction for my setup. But the reason I’m continuing to post on the topic is I’m trying to do the group a favor and get these questions answered so someone coming up behind me can be informed. I still don’t feel like the information someone can access is clear. They should fix that if they want people to buy it. And yeah, I’ve been posting since 2017 and the information is only more convoluted. I will take as long as I please to make my choice in a way that fits with the circumstances of my life, which you don’t have insight into and can’t comment on.

Question to the group concerning valve lash pads. My lash pad wipe pattern is off center, away from the cam, approximately 3/32 inch. Given that the installed lash pads are 0.118-inch (3.00mm) thick and lash pads are available in increments of .25mm, what thickness lash pad will center the wipe pattern? If thinner lash pads move the wipe patter inboard toward the cam, I’m thinking 0.099-inch (2.5mm) should do it. Edit: In the end the advice I got from everyone seems to be "Trial and Error" is the best way to figure it out, but confirmed that thinner moves the wipe pattern away from the valve and thicker toward the valve. We ended up filing down 7 of the pads to get the right thicknesses and it looks like I am going to have to get them from Precision Shims in Australia. Bummer that I will have to wait so long to get them, but at least they are the right thing. It was that or go with the Kameari ones at $15 a pop and wait 4 weeks for them to arrive.

Jeeez. It’s like they don’t want us to buy the damn thing. I’m just going to go with Spirit Garage.

Evaporator Bracket no. 3: This one was a MF to get done, and I’m still not 100% happy with it. I would change a couple of things about it if I were to do it again, but I already have too much time invested and it’s doing the job well enough. Overall, I think this series of brackets is the right approach vs using the flat bits they provide, but the geometry is ever so slightly off on all three of them due to minor differences between the real evaporator and the mock-up. don’t get me wrong, the mock-up made it way easier, but I wish I had a CNC machine so I could take the next step and make these in aluminum and tweak the angles to fix the errors. The evaporator is a few degrees off from square on the yaw axis, which is why it was hitting the glovebox. It could also stand to move forward about 1cm and down the same amount. Not bad for hand made and rough measurements, though. You can see where the original bracket they provided with the mock-up evaporator was scratching the paint. The one of the actual evaporator is just as in the way, so I deleted that entirely. It is unnecessarily tall.

Silicone Rubber Sheet,Heat Resistant, Heavy Duty,High Grade 60A,12 x 12 Inch, 1/16 Inch Thickness for DIY Gaskets, Pads, Seals, Crafts, Flooring,Cushioning of Anti-Vibration, Anti-Slip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LN8MJZB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is what JDM Car Parts sent in response to my questions: 1. I can tell the EPU is a full system, but I can’t tell if the header is the same as the Super Ex or if it has also been updated. EPU Has 3rd Gen Flipped flange. 2. I see that the EPU version can accommodate an r200 differential, but does it still work with a r180 and the factory cross member that has indents for a twin pipe exhaust? It would not work with R200 set up. These indents are for factory exhaust for Z432 and such. I think they’re not understanding my question, but I found somewhere else that there are specific part numbers for the r180 version and the r200 version. I am betting the r200 version is too wide to work with the factory differential cross member with the exhaust indentations. 3. I saw one website saying the EPU version has an O2 sensor, but I wasn’t sure where it is. Is it on the header or the y-pipe? O2 Sensor does not come with the system. It comes with a plug, which can be removed for O2 Sensor if you wish to use it. 4a. Is the EPU system a bolt in setup in a left hand drive car, or is there going to be a clearance issue with the steering shaft hitting the header? NO Made to fit LHD / RHD > Yes. It fits both RHD and LHD YES 4b. Related to this, are all of the hanger brackets welded on already? YES for EPU 5. Are there any other changes to the EPU over the Legalis r / super ex that explain the price increase over the older setup? Many of the products have been updated without changing part #. We recommend you purchase header and exhaust system together, so you will not have any matching issues. Super EX must be used with Legalis R 750-15414 It is made for a Lowered vehicle. It is made for R180, it does Not work with R200. Super EX does NOT work with Legalis R 750-15411(For Stock height vehicles, it was popular in 80's.

Thanks! I wasn’t able to find many people talking about how they made the brackets that hold this thing in among the various build threads I’ve read about installing one of these. Hopefully this will help someone either finish their project earlier or figure out a better solution than I have. The flat steel bracket material they provide is a no-go. Unless you’re putting this into a car where the mount points on the car are close to the mount points on the evaporator, it’s going to swing around all over because they are very springy. I'm trying to create ate least one triangle for each axis. Maybe my transmission hump bracket should have been rod instead of sheet to be stiffer, but I think the last of the three will wipe out any flex. The other benefit of going with rod over sheet in the back and on top is I’ll have WAY more space to run wires, tubes, and pipes. I made some mock-ups of various brackets for the top and they all created a huge barrier I wouldn’t be able to snake the ducting around:

Made some brackets for the Vintage Air AC Evaporator: Good clearance all around except for the corner of the cardboard glove box insert. It makes contact but it’s not right. I may be able to pull it forward when I make the third bracket. Right now the mock-up can twist longitudinally, so I definitely need to use that third hard point. Kinda wish I had used 16 gauge instead of 22 gauge steel for the hump bracket because it’s pretty flexible. However, I think I need another bend in it so it’s not flexed. That may stiffen it a smidgen, and maybe it won’t be an issue. I’ll decide after I have the third bracket on if it needs to be redone.

I bought a 12x12 sheet of closed cell silicone from Amazon that is the same thickness as the 240z gasket. I ended up changing the hole size on that from the sample and making about eight paper templates before deciding on a final one. An X-acto knife goes through that silicone like butter. The ZX bracket was sandblasted and I used the same blue paint I used on the block, which I purchased from Motorsport. The silver paint is Eastwood Alumablast. I used a Timken 6203-2RS deep groove bearing (17x40x12mm). I have painted all of my aluminum parts in the engine bay. I have learned that radiator fluid additives can completely ruin the finish on nice aluminum parts so the only things I leave raw in the engine bay are brass and stainless steel. For the quarter windows, I used Goo Gone to get them cleaned after taking them apart. The rubber is all new from Precision (not very precise, if you ask me). I polished the steel with Barkeeper’s Friend and then stainless steel polish. It has a faint brushed finish rather than a mirror finish, but that’s intentional. The broken joints in the frame were glued with JB weld and clamped, because I didn’t feel like breaking out the welder for a single spot weld. However, the rubber, being not precise (see above), might have ruined that joint. I can’t completely tell and am not taking it apart to find out. It doesn’t matter because the car holds it together. Weather strip is held in with black 3M weather strip adhesive and the various gaps were filled with black RTV. It looks like it’s supposed to be like that.

Making some progress: Reconditioned my 280ZX AC Bracket Reconditioned the Storage Box Latches Installed Most of the Interior Insulation Reconditioned the Fuel Flow / Fume Control Valve Reconditioned the Steering Coupler Reconditioned and Repaired the Quarter Windows Made a Brake Booster Gasket & Installed the Clutch Master Cylinder

That answered the question! Thanks @Racer X “Early R180's measure 110mm inside the ring gear. 77 and later model year R180s measure 115mm inside the ring gear. This minor change means that the ring and pinions won't swap between the early and later models. If you have an early diff you must use an early carrier, and if you have the later diff you must use a later carrier. It is possible to use a early carrier on a later ring gear with a spacer…”

Not here to debate whether or not someone should do these things. I’m here to understand IF it can be done because this information is not findable on the internet and there is a lot of bad info out there. For example, I didn’t know that the R in r180 stands for “Rear,” that there is an f180 that was used as the front differential in trucks, and that f180 gears are cut in the opposite direction, meaning you can’t use an f180 as an r180. I also didn’t know that the ring gear inside diameter changed from 110mm to 115mm at some point in the evolution of the r180 family. Pinning down when that happened would be worthwhile, as would when they switched from 100mm bolts to 12mm bolts and finding out if 9-bolt rings are standard or if there are others. I would also like to know if any manufacturers other than Subaru and Nissan used r180 differentials with the same case, as that would open up parts availability and swapping potential. While I appreciate that the complexity of messing with a differential may or may not necessitate caution, wether or not one use the full assembly or chooses to fine tune their differential with internal parts is up to them. Part numbers, years, models, measurements, and side by side comparisons would be very useful. (edit: the first question these technicians asked when I asked about putting 240z R&P in a Subaru r180 was what I asked in my first post. They are not parts experts across manufacturers, but people working in Subaru service stations. They know how to do it but know whether parts will swap.)

Because I have access to parts as well as technicians, and one does not learn without trying. in other news, I stumbled upon this list of part numbers for ring & pinion gears, which I have not yet verified: 38100-U3000.... 3.364 38100-U3100.... 3.545 38100-U3200.... 3.70 38100-U3300.... 3.889 38100-U3400.... 4.11.... used on front of '83- 720 and rears of CA20E S12s. 38100-U3500.... 4.375 38100-U3600.... 4.625

I understand that the gears come as a set and that the gear teeth have their own face profiles from one manufacturer to the next, but what I’m really looking to know is if r180 is a standard of some sort that allows for interchangeability. Can one put a gear set for a WRX on a Nissan or vice versa. There are many more intermediate ratios available to us if so.

Does anyone know if the ring & pinion in an R180 are universal to all r180s? I've dug around but don't see this specific topic covered anywhere; not in this forum, not in the internet generally. What I mean is, can you use the gears from a Nissan r180 in a Subaru r180 and vice versa? I know that the case inside the differential housing often has model specific attributes, which is why you need the special half-shaft adapters to use a Subaru differential in a Z car, but are the ring and pinion gears universal from one to the next? Even more specifically, are the pinions all the same throughout these differentials and the ring (or crown) gear is what is changing the gear ratio? Is the bolt pattern on every ring gear for an r180 the same? The reason I am wondering is I want to understand if you can just go get the ring gear from any r180 that has the number of teeth you want and bolt it into your differential. That would make life a LOT easier when it comes to getting the ideal final drive for your needs.

Thanks! Just seeing where the pipes go through the firewall totally changed my perspective on this. I’m thinking I will be making my own SS lines that mimic the routing of the copper one, but I may to that on the interior as well. I might also to it with the heater lines inside the cabin to allow for tighter cornering around the Vintage Air evaporator.

I think you’re right. I would rather have the split one (15415) so the pipes tuck up better, but I don’t want to order it and find out it doesn’t line up with the twin pipe indentations on the r180 crossmember.

This is the information Fujitsubo has listed on their product description for the EPU system: Product Name - EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (Legalis) Item Number - 050-15413 Price Price - ¥313,500 (Base price: ¥285,000) JAN Code - 4944997019149 Supported model application - S30 Fairlady Z 2 Seater Body Type - S30 (2 Seater only, Manual Transmission vehicles only) Engine type - L20 Year - 1969.11 - 1975.9 Special Notes: Compatible with low-down [lowered] vehicles It is a set of EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions). It is not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts. Common to Solex, Weber Cab, and SU Cab Genuine SU cab car * Heat shielding required It cannot be installed in a car equipped with a genuine air cleaner box. Specifications: Outlet shape Tailip Style - φ50.8 slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter Pipe Diamet er - EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual List of Fitting Parts 080-35098 Plate Gasket Plate Gasket x 3 M8 x 35mm Bolt x 9 12 M8 spring washers M8 Nut x 12 M8 x 25mm Bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 exclusive metal fittings (band type φ50.8) x 3 Dedicated bracket for S30 [A] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [B] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel wire (l250) x 2 Product Name - EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (Legalis) Item Number - 050-15415 Price Price - ¥313,500 (Base price: ¥285,000) JAN Code - 4944997019156 Supported model application - S30 Fairlady Z 2 Seater Body Type - S30 (2 Seater only, Manual Transmission vehicles only) Engine type - L20 Year - 1969.11 - 1975.9 Special Notes: Compatible with low-down [lowered] vehicles It is a set of EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions). It is not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts. Common to Solex, Weber Cab, and SU Cab Genuine SU cab car * Heat shielding required It cannot be installed in a car equipped with a genuine air cleaner box. Specifications: Model Type - R200 Diff compatible model Outlet Shape Tailip Style - φ50.8 slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter Pipe Diameter EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual List of Fitting Parts 080-35098 Plate Gasket Plate Gasket x 3 M8 x 35mm Bolt x 9 12 M8 spring washers M8 Nut x 12 M8 x 25mm Bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 exclusive metal fittings (band type φ50.8) x 3 Dedicated bracket for S30 [A] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [B] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel wire (l250) x 2 --- This is what I found on JDM Car Parts: Part number: #15-510-15418 Fujitsubo EPU Stainless Steel Dual Exhaust System for Datsun 240Z / Nissan Fairlady Z S30 L6 Engine L6 L20-L28 Engine Headers: 6-2 Type / 45mm at 6 and 50.8mm at 2 Exhaust pipe: 45 mm to 50.8 mm 50.8 mm at Straight section This system is for triple carburetor set up Designed to work with lowered suspension set up. Works with RHD / LHD car Works with R200 Differential set up Comes with insert for O2 Sensor set up (O2 sensor is not included) Caution: It does not come with manifold gasket (Stock manifold gasket works with this headers) Caution: Exhaust hangers are Not included. You need to use stock hangers --- This is what I found on RHD: Fairlady Z S30 GS30 HS30 2-Seater Part Num: 050-15415 Series: Exh Performance Unit EPU Legalis Material: Stainless Steel (SUS304) Tip Type: Slash (W Vertical) Tip Diameter (mm): 50.8 X 2 Pipe Diameter (mm): 50.8 --- This is what I found on Blackhawk Japan: Series Name: EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (LEGALIS) Product Number - 050-15415 Compatible Car - FAIRLADY Z 2-SEATER S30 Product Description Body model: -S30 Engine model: L20 Year: S44.11 to S50.9 (1969.11 to 1975.9) Tailtip Style: φ50.8 Slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter : EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual Fitting Parts: 080-35098 Plate Gasket × 3 M8 × 35mm Bolt × 9 M8 Spring Washer × 12 M8 nut x 12 M8 x 25mm bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 dedicated metal fitting (band type φ50.8) x 3 S30 dedicated bracket [A] x 1 S30 dedicated bracket [B] x 1 S30 dedicated bracket [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel Wire (l250) x 2 Peak Power: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 95dB Peak Torque: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 92dB Proximity Exhaust Noise: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 89dB Remarks Safety standard compliant product 2-seater only MT car only Low-down car compatible R200 differential compatible EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions) set product Not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts Common to Solex, Weber cab, and SU cab vehicles Genuine SU cab vehicles Heat shield shield required Vehicles with genuine air cleaner box cannot be installed Notes: Images are for illustration purpose only. Actual product may vary. --- So it looks like 15413 is for an r180 differential and 15415 is for an r200 differential, but the information is so inconsistent from one retailer to another that I am not sure about any of it. I don't know if 15418 is a typo or what. I see exhaust hangers in the illustration and think that's what the brackets in the parts inventories are, but who knows. Another thing I am finding is HUGE swings in price, from $1,404.46 to $3,299.00, and that is just within the EPU versions. I reached out to JDM Car Parts but he hasn't responded yet. I have also reached out to Fujitsubo and Greenline Motorsports. Maybe one of them will respond.

Yes! Super helpful. I found a set of copper lines and a dryer on eBay and was thinking of using them for a vintage air setup, but couldn’t see how they went on. Not sure if I’m going that route or not because I’m concerned about leaks, but at least now I know where the lines go.