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pogden

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pogden last won the day on October 2 2020

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About pogden

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    Phoenix
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    Software Engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1976 280Z HLS30279639, Nov 1975 build date. Completely disassembled, painted original 240 Racing Green. Slowly putting everything back together. I can't wait to fire it up for the first time, but LOTS of things to do before then. Currently going through the wiring.

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  1. Sorry - late nite post on my iPad, must've somehow fat-fingered in an extra comma at the end of the URL. I fixed it in my post above, and here it is again: http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7b010.htm
  2. @patcon, I saw your post earlier today and was wondering the same thing. I have a 4-speed in the shed, will try to find time to have a look. I haven’t started on my wide ratio yet, and I know mine came from a 79 ZX. It will be interesting to see whether mine has a RH or LH nut. This page has some interesting data, http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7b010.htm and the company itself sells recycled parts. For what it’s worth, my transmission guy said they were very helpful in finding a “good” input shaft for my close ratio. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  3. I am going to rebuild my wide ratio FS5W71B, hopefully over the holidays. I bought the rebuild kit from RockAuto (and I confirm what zkars states in his thread: that the kit seems to be the same one sold in other places, and contains Japanese bearings). I bought all the other stuff on EuroDat’s list (seals, main shaft and countershaft nuts, oil gutter, detent balls and springs, ...) from Nissan (Courtesy, I think, but I will check tomorrow if you want). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  4. I bought it on eBay, yes, and no, it wasn’t very expensive. I believe it was from Newark Auto. It fits very well, and seems to be well made. My only complaint is the lack of slits in the rear piece for cargo straps. I can add photos if you are interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  5. I bought it on eBay, yes, and no, it wasn’t very expensive. I believe it was from Newark Auto. It fits very well, and seems to be well made. My only complaint is the lack of slits in the rear piece for cargo straps. I can add photos if you are interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  6. I used various sizes of adhesive-backed insulation strips from the hardware store. They are sold in coils and should be with the door and window insulation stuff. Some worked better than others - the main problem I had was than some of them had crappy adhesive. Overall, it worked fine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  7. With my 76 280Z on stands under the FSM-specified support points (as show in Zed’s post), and with the engine, transmission, interior (including seats and dash) and front undercarriage out, it was easy to tilt the car back off of the front stands. My point is that the FSM support points may be focused mainly on chassis strength and not on balance shift due to major disassembly of heavy parts. As Zed said, you will probably be okay (as long as you don’t lift the rear or sit on the front while the suspension and tank are out), but it could not hurt to throw a bottle jack or something under the front crossmember just to be safe. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  8. I laid my flat, in the sun, on the patio. It flattened quickly (a couple of hours, I guess), but not completely. It will finish flattening in place in your Z.
  9. @L.Flores, yours looks like a close ratio gearbox to me, though your bell housing does look more like the one from my wide ratio. It is possible that yours (or mine) was at one point rebuilt and reassembled with a bell housing from a different year, or (more likely, IMO) they were just assembled at the factory with bell housings that came from different castings. I think all of the relevant changes between the early (wide ratio) and later (close ratio) boxes were internal or in the rear extension.
  10. Thanks, Chas. I just might be able to fix this then - I also ordered the large roller bearings (the ones not included in the rebuild kit, for some reason). What you say about the baulk rings makes sense, but I'll probably replace them anyway (cuz I have 'em). But I'll give the old ones a good inspection first.
  11. My wide ratio gearbox (the one in the pictures at the top of this thread) pops out of 2nd gear. Not always when upshifting, but always when downshifting. I've been reading everything I can on this site about overhauling one of these things, and I am going to give it a shot. I just received the rebuild kit from Rock Auto, which seems to be the exact same one sold by other places as described in @zKars's lengthy FS5W71B Rebuild Thread, and it was <$60. I also ordered a bunch of other small parts (seals, main shaft and countershaft nuts, detent springs/balls, oil gutter, Torx screws) that I might need from Courtesy Nissan. I did not order any of the big parts (gear sets, shafts) - I understand that many of those are NLA. Regrading slipping out of gear, I have no idea why it's doing that, but I hope to find out. My *guess* is either a problem with the 1-2 baulk ring or maybe one of the detent springs. Thanksgiving project, I hope.
  12. I understood the original question to be "If both engine and transmission are out, is it better to install the engine and transmission as a unit, or drop the engine in first and then the transmission". In that case I would always do them as a unit unless something (maneuvering room, availability of a leveler) prevents it. If only the engine or the transmission needs to be removed, then yeah, only remove that - no need to remove both just to service one.
  13. I am really happy to hear that Hung Vu will be producing 75/76 (and presumably 74) door panels. I've never understood why there are aftermarket ones available for 77/78 but not 74-76 - I always ASSume that the hard part is shaping and producing the card itself and that it could be adapted for either (and maybe even for the 70-73), but I guess if it were that easy someone would have done it by now. FWIW, several years ago I did manage to find a set of aftermarket panels for my 76. They are not quite right (NONE of the holes are where they should be, and they are actually a little too short front-to-back), but the shape and fabric were way better than my originals. The biggest problem was the hole for the release handle which was about half an inch too far forward. I made a little rectangular trim piece to cover the gap around the handle. Not really happy with the end result, so I'll be keeping an eye open for Hung Vu's offering.
  14. It is, Chuck. I hope Ford tested it in an F-250 or a Focus and not a Crown Vic! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  15. I have a 1976 280Z that was converted to SU carbs by the previous owner. The mechanical fuel pump was crap, so I replaced it with a GMB part which didn't seem to work very well. I replaced that with another GMB pump which seems to work fine. I am aware that some have reported problems with them, so I also installed a NISMO electric pump. In reading on this site about how to wire this up I saw lots of advice about adding an inertia switch for safety. From the FSM and wiring diagram I also learned that the factory fuel pump in my car was controlled by the fuel injection relay, which had been deleted long ago from my car. This article describes one pretty clean way of wiring in a relay and an inertia switch to provide power to a low-pressure electric fuel pump in a carb-converted 280Z. Background: In the 280Z the fuel injection relay is actually two relays packaged together: the EFI bible refers to these as the Power Relay and the Fuel Pump relay. When the ignition switch is in the ON position, the power relay sends sends power to the fuel injection system (ECU, fuel injectors, AFM); the fuel pump relay sends current to ... yep, the fuel pump. The current sent to the AFM doesn't power the AFM; rather, the AFM closes a set of contacts when the engine is running and air is flowing, and it opens those contacts when the engine is off. The current required to operate the fuel pump relay runs through those AFM contacts so that the fuel pump relay closes only when the engine is running and air is flowing. If the engine stops, the AFM contacts are opened and so is the fuel pump relay. It's a little more complicated than this (related to how the Start position of the ignition switch sort of overrides all of this so that the fuel pump can run in order to start the engine), but that's not really important for this discussion - I want the fuel pump to run when the ignition is in the ON or START position, unless I've been in an accident. It turns out, there's an easy way to do this. The connector that (formerly) ran to the Fuel Injection relay is part of the instrument harness and is found under the dash by the steering column. I just replaced the female 6-pin connector (only 4 pins are used) with a similar one from Vintage Connections and then wired the male part to the Ford-type inertia switch and Bosch-type 12VAC 30A relay as shown in the diagram and pictures below. I just mounted the relay and switch to a piece of 2mil aluminum plate, and mounted the whole thing by where the ECU was located. It seems to work: the fuel pump comes on with the key in the ON position, and if I tap (well, smack) the inertia switch to get it to open, the fuel pump turns off. I haven't driven it enough yet to know whether the inertia switch will "break" when I don't want it to (going over bumps, etc.), but it's easily reachable from the drivers seat.
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