wheee!
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Everything posted by wheee!
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There’s always one more thing… I took the time to rethink the push button start system this week. As it was designed for the stock electrical system, the ignition needed to be activated by pushing on the brake to start the car. But this was a pain in that it was clumsy and if you stalled in an intersection while rolling, you needed to stop the car with the brake to start it. So I had an idea to replace the rubber bumper on the clutch pedal with another brake pedal switch. Normally open, closed when the brake is pushed. I drilled out the rubber bumper nut in the pedal box for the bigger diameter brake switch, and wired it to accessory power and the push button ignition switch. Voila! I now start the car by pushing in the clutch instead of the brake! Much safer and easier to do! Rubber bumper for attention. Forgot to get a picture of the brake switch.
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Well, it has been a long time coming, but I finally got the car out to a car show. Went to the 30th Anniversary of the Edmonton Z Car Club Car show on Saturday. Wow! Where did all of these S30's come from! It was a great turnout with lots of great cars. I am over the moon thrilled with SASSZ and how she looks in the sunlight. We weren't the only ones apparently because we took first place for the S30 class and Best in Show to boot! Validation after all this time feels amazing... Thanks to everyone on this forum that have helped push me along with advice and encouragement, parts and knowledge. This was indeed a village effort to get me this far!
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Installed the Techno Versions V Boost tach adapter last night. The ebay version, although functioning, tended to jump around a lot. The V Boost version has enough power to smooth the signal totally out! Still waiting on the replacement fuel pump. The stock unit can’t feed the volume anymore and is leaning out under load. Ordered a Walbro in line unit to replace it. This should also get rid of the pump noise that was driving me nuts.
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You really need a 3D printer to fix these nowadays. Parts are incredibly expensive or unobtainium new, and used parts are just as fragile. A good 3D file would be helpful. Not just the case, but the switch mechanism too.
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Cut and polish day. I was hesitant to do a full wet sand, and I may still do that one day, but for now a hard cut and polish was enough to get her shiny enough to drive. I have a few clear coat sags that need sanding out eventually but I can live with that for now. I wouldn’t want to burn through the clear and have to respray before I even drove it!! IMG_4763.MP4
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Well, the rotational clunk is gone!! All the lasers actually helped. Still some little gremlins to sort like the speedo decided to stop working and now my power steering thinks I’m stopped and it’s on full power assist all the time..! Easy fix. Weather is crap this weekend so I will try and get a good pull down the road next week and send the data log to the tuner for evaluation. Onward!
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Verified the driveshaft has the preferred “droop” to keep the u joints working properly. Trans output is level, then checked the diff and it is level, then checked the driveshaft and there is about 2.5 degrees of drop down along the shaft to the diff. Very close to the “magic” 3 degrees!
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I love it. Would buy it in a heartbeat if the situation was different. Gotta get the other project started and the current one finished!!
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I have never felt such love for a truck before....
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Some black magic! Seriously though, I adjusted the top GM style mount on the RT Mount to recentre the diff. There are two holes for positioning about 1/2" apart. I moved it one over. I also shimmed the driver side of the RT mount against the tunnel to allow the slightly narrower mount to sit centred in the tunnel. To offset the slight shift, I added a washer to the back mounting lugs on the driver side to make the diff sit flat and flush to the moustache bar.
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After that, I inspected all the u joints and all the rear suspension bolts. All good and tight. Then I checked the alignment of the driveshaft and discovered the diff nose was off centre by almost 1/2” side to side. Realigned the diff tonight and checked with a laser to get it as close to perfect alignment with the trans output shaft. The driveshaft is a custom 4” aluminum unit with GM ujoints and has been balanced when built. frickin’ lasers!
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So I did a quick spin around the block and was quite dismayed to hear a rotational clunk in the rear end. Not the load/shift clunk experience by most. I pulled the diff and tested the pinion torque, preload and bearing cap torque. All good. Tested the swipe pattern (with Kopr Kote, no it’s not rust!) and that was good in both directions. Backlash seems spot on.
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I tested the blue hitachi with fuel before I bought the original black Bosch with the new fuel tank. I can’t remember testing the pump but I remember the seller saying it ran perfect before he pulled it. It was in very good condition.
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I remember testing it years ago and It wasn’t noisy on the bench.
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Should I bother trying the original aftermarket pump with the blue connectors?
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I had a few people comment on how reliable and solid the original bosch units were. And how noisy the new units were… Guess I got it wrong
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ugh... might have to.
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It is indeed an original BOSCH fuel pump. I have another one which has the blue connectors which was a later aftermarket version I believe. The noise in the cabin is quite excessive. Loud whirring. Fuel pressure is good though.
