dutchzcarguy

I think, as i sold some copy cats of those fenders.. (The "famous" Black Dragon ones..) the originals from NISSAN are north of 1000 dollars easy.. A PIECE... Last year i sold some and had the same problem.. There are no copy's OR originals for sale for some time now..

Looks like a ballbearing (in this pic) left from the 271070 number... is it for lubrication? or what is that? i see it for the first time.. does anyone know ?

The round washers are used in the fuel lines in and the air out.. but.. I know that there are 2 DIFFERENT needle valves used in our HITACHI'S !! (not SU!!) maybe someone can elaborate about these.. one is longer than the other and has to go in the front carb? or in rear? and where can i get those? (I have a small problem with my 240z haha, i hit the carbs with a little hammer before i start it when it's not used for over a week or so.. i first gonna put in a new fuelpump.. (no..still no energy to do that..) I think it's also a fuelpressure problem that the carbs stay dry.. after that i will renew these valves when a new pump should not do the trick!) Btw.. i see 8 washers or is the last one rubber? Those paper gaskets can be made out of paper you buy at the autopartsshop..

I think he is reffering to the rail just in upper third of the pic.. thats a strip that holds the brakelines.. Man.. you must like that car.. i would bring it to the wreckingyard, after stripping it.. There is a massive amount of welding needed.. pff.. 🙈 Do not forget to brace the chassis/car when you take big parts out of it, otherwise you end up with a car where no door or other part will really fit!!

The hinge on the pic seems to be a type2? the first type hinge 240z had a smaller spring and other latch mechanism i think??

Good idea. as he @Dolfinz not jet did that.. after you click on your name you have to click: ACCOUNT SETTINGS and THEN you see that list and click: signature! Put in type and year of your car and your good to go!

I would bring them to a reman. shop.. there should be one in your neighbourhood?

One can? I used about 8 or so! but i have done ALL parts and cavity's sometimes more than once.. that damn car is NOTGONNARUST !!!! Hahaha 😂 I even had to alter the weight in the paperwork... NO just kidding! 🤣

He says it's a 280z engine but he is mistaken? that would be a N42 engineblock or so? the F54 was the later 280ZX after 1980 engineblock?

Btw, i just took a look and it's called: "Teroson ML" that was used very effectively on my 280zx.. the floor/chassis was almost completely in perfect order.

Yeah and then you are to late.. haha.. btw, i had to remove the complete floor to de-rust it haha.. now it's new 0.8mm steel with sink-paint.. nothing else and now 22 years old and a little fly-rust..so i need to do something about it but no hurry.. No undercoating whatsoever! (I hate those black layers of gunk.. when you see that it's rusty then your to late.. just a bit of waxoyl or so .. something where you can look through! I also do the floor with some WD40 every few years.. it makes .. if there is some tar .. like under my other cars soft and prevents drought cracks in the coating! Because thats the worst thing there can happen.. the water gets into the cracks and ruins the steel!

The first Original Nissan cabriolet was the Z32 300zx (always Non turbo) 2 seater cabriolet, then the 350z and 370z cabriolet they were also only 2 seaters. I once drove a 300zx z32 cabriolet and it was a twisty chassis... they were not made very well i think.. Has anyone better experiences with them, and also about the 350z or 370z cabriolet's ? I think the 350z is a much better Cabriolet than the 300zx ever was..

NICE! I never heard of Ziebart but it helped very good against rust. Over here in Europe we have Dinitrol.. The 280zx i restored was done with Dinitrol or something like it.. It had a lot of plugs were the stuff was sprayed into the hollow parts.. thats why i bought this one and at the end i used the stuff again!

you find the serv manuals under "sources" and then "downloads" btw.. i just took a look and the lower part go's behind the upper (headlight) scoop.. so it probably is the wrong part? it's also behind the bumper so you can't see it normally..

Take a Volt-meter and measure if there is power on the potentiometer that is under your dash that controls the dash lights. Could be that this one is gone bad? If not then check further back in the wiring untill you have voltage on it.. somewhere you will find the problem.. Or you forgot a cable.. although i don't think that that's the case as the dash lights are on the same contact as the car lights .. i GUESS!! (take also a look at the schematics for that! you find the schematics on this site! under: resources/downloads! )

It could be.. that the lower part has to go OVER the upper part..(seen from the front like the pic.) not behind it ?? To long ago that i worked on a 240 but could that be it? or no original part.. A lot of people work on cars without checking the serv.manual... very unwiZe.. it's on this site for free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOOK in it to see how things have to work together!

Just on the right, that spot with some sun on it tells me you just hit the jackpot i think.. thats the tippical blue NISSAN engine color!

We all tryed the cheaper ones and ... then we knew why they were so cheap! 😄 The saying is not for nothing (overhere at least:) Good tools is half the work!

YES, but clean the thing first inside because the tiny adjustments go off when the thing is not super clean inside! so first clean the &^#$%#@ thing and then adjust to the right setting! There are 2 horns with different frequencies and need precise adjustment.

Wow.. what a job.. i was glad someone else took over that job from me.. cost me a 1000 euro or so.. and someone else took over the wheel housings for 100 euro a housing... i would not do it for 100euro.. a housing.. would you? (There was a thick layer of anti rust, very hard and dry.) Paint is a sort of plastic at the end and can be very sharp edged.. Lead is a soft material, not so sharp..

Are mar bags what i think that they are?? please explain? What does M.A.R. stand for? I for one.. i don't prepare anything in this world.. i don't want to live when those Worlds "leaders" are going to throw with the most feared projectiles.. your better of dead..

But i can't see it very well.. i also think, as i got some originals lying around, yours is not that same (original USA not the euro version) panel where the turnsignal light fits into? IIRC the hole sits lower in that part. Maybe you have a pic of "the bigger picture" (less detailed.) ?

For the top part take a little clamp from a firm that does in tools and tool racks (to store the screwdrivers on a rack!) and the lower part bend a piece of metal and weld or rivet together. Can someone give some measurements?

Could it be that the lower part is a non-original part? maybe a pic less close.. would explain more? I assume you have the part with the turn indicator hole that fits under the sugarscoop / headlight bezel.. there but i don't recognize it as such..

Oh.. that's simple... your power to the rear defrost has to come from the right fuse.. apparently your defrost is now on the line after the lightswitch.. whats not correct! Take a good look at the 240z schematic and look at where the defrost is connected to the power..