dutchzcarguy

I took a look at this topic of mine and saw that i left out some pics i have from the engine.. Here some pictures of a 280zx L28 engine with only 120,000km on it (74500 Miles!) With some patience i managed to lay the chain on my vise and make a pic of it.. it's almost like a new chain after these km's.. i could put it back in and the sprocket of the timing is still on the number 1 hole! Almost no wear on the chain-guide.. And YES these ones have gone back in the engine.. the rubber was very good, it was tough but very deformable! (I find that unbelievable! After 42! years!!) (i keep the new set for next time....) Haha.. the other end of the dipstick... you dipstick! 😉 (yeah a 240z on the background...) Some pics of the deck.. Nice cleaned out headbolt holes and a new headgasket on.. Oilstrainer.

You should take a look at Trev's blog then! He made a lot of good vid's about making metal parts! Thats were i learnt a LOT !!

Ofcourse you mean: they come on at 220 and off at 180 .. And please put a F after it as we euro's don't know Mr Fahrenheit.. we use Mr Celcius hahaha.. (That is always fun.. celcius Fahrenheit.. kelvin.. but the most fun is foot and meters.. there were made A LOT of mistakes.. someone bought a boat in the states, thought it was meters and found it very cheap.. he got the boat... in foot... ) (people with more examples, make a extra topic, don't want to make this one a mess..;-) ) Btw, nice solution to use another th.housing for a extra th.switch!

Hi, Not the ideal spot to put the sensor, better would be just on the radiator itself.. As the fans are getting power with relays you can use a simple sensor to activate the relays. Personally i'm not a fan of electric cooling.. the original cooling fan uses (a lot) direct mechanical energy, yes, but the electric ones use a LOT of electric energy that our s30 cars are not made for the electric energy needed is not calculated in the power of the circuitry A good mechanical temp clutch fan is the better / most reliable solution. (also clean and no wires and other electric parts needed)

Yeah thats what i used! Didn't know the name.. Yeah thats the name.. a flairing tool, one needs one that has a good grip on the line to make the flair right!

Thats another advantage of the copper alloys as well i have some stored over 20 years (warm and dry garage attic) and they still look like new.. it does not oxidate much.

Yeah i did that last month but last week i needed the car (after a stand still of 3 weeks.) and it fired right up and after about 5 seconds of running on the choke it died.. i suspected the bowls were just emptied. Did not look at the bowls just got me some air from my compressor and bluw them open.. then the car fired right up and i was able to drive it for 10 min. without any problem! So i think that there was some fuel left in the carbs.. but the pump could not fill the bowls again.. As i have a few new pumps and no valves (new) i think i just put in a new pump and be done.. sorry for getting a bit.. a lot.. off topic here!

Over here (and there i guess!) you can buy the line by the eh.. meter/yard/foot.. whateverrrr.. and cheap. i modelled the line after the old one. Once you got a tool to make the ends it's very simple to replace any line and for low price!

I don't know what Fedhill material is.. but i would not use stainless lines, it's much to hard and cause leakes.. I used sort of copper alloy lines, they are not expensive and a softer material and make perfect connections. you need a tool to make the protrusion.. or whatever it's called at the end of the line.. you can get those in a toolshop for a few bucks.

I once cleaned the valves and they were not even dirty or so.. i think they have a bit of wear.. I will check the fuelpressure when i can and then i know what parts i need to replace, Thanks Mark!

I have a question regarding these old pumps, i got a 50 year old pump on my 240z and i asked myself.. now in this pandemic i use my cars less and less and the 240z starts right up and then after a few sec's suddenly stops.. i then need to clear the carb needle valves (just blow some air as the carbs are vented to the airbox) and the fuel gets in the carb and the car fires right up.. (after a few weeks same story again..) Can it be that i just need to change my fuelpump.. does anyone know what the pressure should be of such an old mech.pump? I think to replace the pump anyways as it's antique! Or are my carb needle valves getting old and need new ones? If i drive the car once a week it 's no problem... also asked myself if that damn "good" fuel 🙄 we have these days is the culprit? (no lubrication in the needle valves.)

Wow.. you have a lot of work there, is that undercoating on the plastic fenderliners? I just needed to clean mine with a pressurewasher.. Most of the paint in my engineroom is still there.. i just need to sand it a bit clean and paint it.. The engine is ready to go in.. Haven't made any pics yet.. now 2 month's pause.. i'm not motivated and the heater in my garage is broken.. so as it is a bit cold i'm even less motivated unfortunately.🥱

And??? 😁 DID you get one?? Use a plastic gauge to test the gaps that way you don't scratch the panels.

I always start at the rear and work to the front.. as there are the most adjustable parts.. a rear part (rear wheel fender is part of the chassis) Then the gap is always smaller on oldtimers than on "modern" cars.. I measured gaps of/between 3-4 mm on my car, that's nice.. i think.

The head of the engine.... or the head from the driver ? 😁

Yes it wheel... eh.. it Will! Just kidding Bart! Yeah as Zup already said: a tabco panel is only 125 $.. but now it's also 1000$ for the paintjob and welder.. at least..

When you use that, first make a test spray on something.. before you do it on your car. Then you know if it's still good and mixed right! (Maybe your wheelbarrel needs a new paintjob! 🙂 )

Very Nice indeed! And these can be used up side down also! (as normally the lower leg of the Z symbol is longer than the top one.. a lot of people don't notice that..) Once a buyer from my 300zx made that mistake.. He changed the Nissan sign for a Z... And.. this one is upside down!

Haha, Yes i have seen the new advert also and bart @bartsscooterservice alerted me on the fact that it was the same one we had seen.. In March or so 2021 , i spoke to the owner on the phone and asked him if he did see something wrong with the rear fender.. i then carfully told him what was wrong.. he then told me it was not so bad.. but i think that he now wants to get rid of the car.. Still a nice car though.

I would place it a foot more to the right.. then you can walk around the post and still drive a car next to the lift.. Have you seen the lift that "hoovie" has got in his garage? It's Hoovies garage on you tube.. haha crazy guy.. with... to much money! 😮

@motorman7 Very nice Garage! But.. did you put cardboard under your 4 post and no bolts in the floor?? I would at least make a construction to the walls just to be sure that the lift does not fall when lifting something on it, like when you lift one axle on a car your working on, it will be very dangerous to work on a car on a lift thats not attached to the floor.. ( If you have a heated floor and can't drill holes in it? always make (detailed) pictures of the tubes before you cover them with concrete. (write the dimensions on the floor so it's in the picture. ........yes for future people that read this.)

Congratulations.. you have 30 followers! must give you a extra boost to plow on!

Just a thought.. could it come from lose (rusty) dust from a compressor tank? Is there a airfilter on the system? I also can feel your pain.. i once had to paint a bike (motorbike) and i had terrible problems with silicone in the paint... after 4 ! times i was happy with the result... pfff... 4 x high gloss black..

I think your to late for those prices.. i paid 200 euro a piece.. years ago.. Yes a flattop can be had for less.. but then. they are a Pain in the "you know where"... to get working right! In Europe we have other prices i know ... but if you gave me 1000 euro for a complete 240z (roundtop) carbset with inlet and every right bit on it that i could bolt up to a L24... i would say no thanks..

Double post.. use other one...