heyitsrama

I had to go to AutoZone twice to get a compression gauge that works. i oiled everything once again, and i did not realize that the motor does not have an oil pressure unit, and now i have a pool of oil on the floor. Dry: 100 60 60 100 90 60 Wet: 110 120 105 115 100 70 Not looking good, esp 70, looks like at this point the head is going to be removed to get a better inspection on the valves. I suspect beat valve seals, and piston rings.... i hope the bearings are within spec.

that worked out perfectly, ran into another issue with the compression checking tool, there is hose that goes into the spark tube, but it seems like there is a leak in the system, when i crank the motor it turns over super smooth, but does not retain pressure on the gauge. I switched out the hose fitting, with a smaller stub that i found, but it appears that there is still loss of pressure somewhere.... i think the hose to the gauge is leaking, there are some cracks on the hose itself... unless im running the test incorrectly. The oiling is also concerning to me, just dont wanna run anything dry....

CLR lists aluminium as something to avoid on there website, i have some evaporust sitting around ill throw that in there for starters, its mild enough to handle the aluminium and the iron. But that's after i get this resolved; I was able to get the motor on the floor,and get the trans + starter hooked up to it, i just need to figure how to setup the remote starter that my buddy let me borrow (dont wanna fry it) so from what i think i understand, i would want to; ground the motor to the battery; run a positive from the battery to the "b" post run the remote starter off that same positive wire to the little tab for the starter...... i think, im not 100% on this remote starter, and dont wanna ruin it...

Alright, well that was a quick 24 hours, I found out that my buddies Porsche is going to be done within the next 2 weeks, so i can get my rotisserie back soon. I think I know what happened to the motor, it appears at some point someone let some hardwater sit inside of it, and based on this there is a $^!# ton of mineral depots in the block. It looks clean when you peek inside the block from the plug hole, but as soon as you look around specifically up the cylinder wall there is hard BLACK mineral deposits. I removed the other plugs, and pumped water through the heater core exit on the head, a ton of gunk came out, but there is still some in there. SO tomorrow i plan on getting that crate setup, and check the compression across the cylinders, assuming there is not a HUGE loss of pressure I'll install the plugs (why waste them if we find the block is messed up), and attempt to remove the rust. This leaves out 2 methods of approach for this. Get (White Vinegar / Distilled water) or (Prestone Radiator Flush) and plug lower radiator hose exit and let it sit for a while, then flush and repeat until satisfied. Get the same stuff, however run the lower rad hose into a bucket, and pump the water back into the top of the head. The benefit of running number 2, is that it does not let the stuff sit inside the system for too long.... I found a swimming pool pump for 10 bucks, I'm considering trying it, it might come in handy later on when doing coolant flushes. Another issue is that it appears that the harness was cut at some point (unless its tucked into the dash), so i need to find something to address that... gotta peep at old harnesses, or a EZ wiring harness.... and a 15/16" master cylinder.... PRE: POST: Engine Bay :

Oh I've been reading this thread for a while, I'm impressed with the way that the copper slag handles the accessories that were treated, it looks great. I'm about to start on one of my chassis, so I'm attempting to absorb as much information that i can, i appreciate the advice. Have a safe return!

Mark, the media blasting treatment you did looks very good, was the copper "soft" enough not to cause issues of warping the metal? #50 Copper Slag (Medium?) Grit, How did the floor pans come out? That's the first time I've seen them being welded around the outside of the chassis rather than being cut and welded from the inside.

I found the thread you were referencing; I think he was able to flush it out properly due to have intake / exhaust parts removed. I'm thinking based on this image I should be able to flush the block out by pouring water down the connection that goes from the head to the heater valve. The only thing I'm worried about is having removed all the passenger side caps already might become probematic in attempting to completely flush out the system. It might be worthwise to attempt to flush as much as possible, install the caps, then do another flush.. I was thinking about the head warping too, im hoping that the leaks were caused by the steel plugs corroding with the water mixture, and not due to overheating because of clogged passages. I do believe that a compression check at this point would also be useful in attempting to see if there are warps in the head.

popped the old ones out, should i be concerned about rust along the walls of the cylinders? Looking at this worries me about the condition of the water pump....... I'm gonna attempt to flush out the crud and get it all cleaned out, what yall think? -

I called my local O'reilly , they did not have it (2 week order time), i ended up getting them from another store, Dorman 565-093 35mm plugs, for the block $2.54 each was not able to get the ones in the head, but ill change them at a later time i suppose Pulling out the old ones is straight forward? It looks like piercing them then pulling them out would be easy. That guy had so much space on his land, there was another one of those m35 in the shadows of the shed behind the lift, a bit hard to see.

Alright, i went to multiple stores in the area, none of them had the correct size plugs, the stealership is closed still tuesday, BUT im going to try to go to Napa Auto tomorrow and see if they have anything there. Someone said i can go to a Home Depot and peep around there, its close to Napa so ill check it out tomorrow.... if not order it i guess

The gentleman had several WW2 and Korean war vehicles on the sides of the property, i guess his wife was cool with all the trucks. I believe that was a APC he had, 2-stroke (turbo?) desiel that apparently takes any type of fuel in there to handle fuel constraints. a have a dolly... but it has another motor on it, You guys know that Europeans ship expensive stuff in oak boxes? I build some cabinates in my room with some from that were are the wearhouse, i think i have some 2x4 left over that i can build a little dolly out of. I'm going to run to the store real quick and check out if they have the plugs, if not then off to a stealership.... brass is the way to go to avoid corrosion?

Oh i completely forgot about the engine carts, you think it would be possible to build one out of wood, or if i could weld one up? I found this source for plugs https://zcardepot.com/engine/engine-rebuild/freeze-plugs-plug-set.html Indicating that I need 50mm x1 40mm x1 35mm x7 (8 for late blocks, mine has 4 plugs on the spark side) Now i as able to find some sourced at Autozone // Napa but they are all Standard sizes where something like 1.375" == ~34.925mm, would this be okay to fit inside the block? I assume that I fit them dry, and without any form gasket.... Ill try to run to the store and finish this tonight, not doing anything anyway. I think i have a coupon somewhere too!

Im super tempted to just keep this dirt color on it, but im really considering painting it, as i have the time now, and after university starts im not going to get much time to work on it. Plus right now some of my buddies are car guys the extra hands always help . The wiring harness appears to be cut at the firewall, ill double check. However i do have a harness from the 73' 240 in the garage i could use, but that still brings out the issue of having to upgrade everything to relays (indicator stick/switch almost melted in the 73 when we were troubleshooting it) 73' has a radiator i have to verify that it does not leak... or you know aluminium They have little holes in the center of them, I plan on ordering a new set, but i want to pay shipping the least amount of times as possible from "theZstore" unless this is something i can run down to an autoStore and get. Hence im attempting to plan out what i need to order, and shoot for 1-2 orders of items.

Howdy, So I picked up another Z.... another because the other one is the garage waiting to get worked on, this one is now in the driveway waiting to play. Could not have been "better" timing as the syncro's in my daily seem to be on their way out the door. I digress, my buddy let me know about this 260 one night super late, I figured because there were no pictures it was going to be absolute mess, but I called the gentleman SUPER early in the morning, and he said to come on down. So I come across this 260 sitting in the yard with no motor in it, and surprisingly "very little rust" ( i say surprisingly because i assume there will be rust on the car once i start working on it, BUT the battery tray was not shot at all, so that looked good in my book. So I picked it up, and I also picked up what would appear to be a L26 block from another individual whom decided he was going to do a gt3 spec car, and was going to swap an LS motor into it. HOWEVER the price was correct for this one. (150 bucks for motor + carbs + intake box + linkage + all pumps + dizzy). When I picked it up it appeared that the motor had been sitting inside for a while, the oil filter says 1989 on it and the freeze plugs are shot. Currently I have planned to go through the car, I found some rust in the spare wheel well, and under the floor pans. I need to address these first, I'm actually debating if I want to sand down the car and give it some primer, I have access to warehouse space, and i have a rotisserie, so i cant imagine it would take more than a couple of days of work (we all know how that goes tho....) What I wanted to get some input on, is what would be the best way to approach this motor? Is there a way to estimate mileage based on the wear of the motor? (my honda motorcycle has wear in the crankcasing from the primary chain ~30k miles) I know that I have to order some freeze plugs for it, currently its able to retain oil in the oilpan, however with it being on the engine stand would it be a good choice now to replace water pump + gaskets? (head gasket?) valve seals? etc? Now I know why you are really here, and that's for pics.... so

Howdy, Often when I'm looking at art pieces that have cityscapes or pictures of downtown areas I keep my eyes peeled for cars that I really like. Yesterday I went to the SF MOMA that just reopened and was amazed to see this Z-car as the secondary subject in this photograph, Market Street by Stephen Shore, Sept , 1974. Anyone else know of any other photographs with hidden Zs? This photograph is really amazing, if your in the SF area check out the museum, its open currently, and tickets were free online when I went, you can get up-to 4 at a time. They added 3 stories for larger exhibits, and the area in general is very extensive from what they had. Regards, Rama

im so sad i did not read this, was it a set of locks and keys NOOooooooooo

@CHL240Z !!!!!!! I've been looking for one of those steering wheels for so long, nice find! keep me in mind if you wanna part ways with it Looks exciting, how have you planned to address the battery tray section?

Howdy, you happen to have a ignition set that matches the doors?

Loudoun, Do you happen to have an ignition with keys, if so do they match the doors/hatch? I'm I picked up a shell, need a set. Regards

I'm just trying to reach 4 digit speeds but yeah driving the Z is usually in cruise mode, not a real big fan of watching the carb drink fuel...

wow, thats pretty neat, how much do these kits run? I need to repair a crack on my daily.

hahahahah thats basically why i do it, although for the Z i was thinking of installing relays, that are controlled from a computer, so i can just "kill" the lights.

0.01 bitcoin says that it was the diff mount...

Yeah when I was cutting out one from a totaled car i saw the smoke and got concerned.. hahahaha Looks like its going to last a long time. Did you use anything for the neutralization of the rust? I think the oxidization will stop when its all covered up, but am not 100% sure. I assume you will be relocating the battery now?

Yeah battery acid mixed with water is H2SO4 + H2O <-> H3O+ + HSO4- Sulfuric Acid is really low on the pH scale (acidic) while the Hydronium formed from the reaction is almost as low. So basically you are pushing around acids all over the engine bay. Most likely you are going to be pushing around large amounts of water the engine bay, this should disperse the acids around, and hopefully off the paint. But the best thing would be to neutralize the acid off the battery top, with Baking Soda (NaHCO3) + H2O <-> Na+ + OH- + H2O + CO2 which should neutralize the acid, and address the Hydronium ions by producing more H2O. then giving it a good wash to remove all the neutralized crap outta the bay. I mean at least that works in my head. 'll take it up with my Chemistry Professor, good thing one of the summer courses that Im taking is Chemistry One alternative thing i can think of is using a Phenolic resin around the battery trays and frame rails. I have a brake piston for my Honda CB500 that is made out of it, its ultra light, as well as being resistant to corrosion from Ethyl-Glycol chains (brake-fluid), but being that OEM pistons are made from Stainless Steel, and the Caliper is aluminum there is going to be a reaction between those metals anyway. Speaking of phenolic stuff, our chemistry lab's counter tops might also be made outta this, ill have to look into it on monday. maybe I can figure out where to get some of this phenolic resin....... or make some man i thought chemistry was boring until now.