Freez74

I found some 1mm diameter galvanized steel wire at Ace Hardware, and used the original staple holes to pass the wire through. Folded the ends over and crimped with pliers, as you suggested. Some of the holes needed to be enlarged slightly with a tiny drill bit. The worst part was getting the old staples out, they are very tight and made of some hard wire, no way to cut them with pliers and pull them out. So I cut each staple in half with a small cutting disc on a Dremel-type tool, and wriggled them out. Repeat many times.

You're welcome, let me know if you have any questions how I did it. There are a few tricks to getting it right.

I bought these and installed them. https://zcarsource.com/door-upper-molding-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new You have to reuse the original metal backing strip, but it was not that hard. They look exactly like original when done.

I just wire brushed mine and sprayed them with black rustoleum. It's been holding up fine.

John, I had no idea you worked for O'Reilly. All the other stores (the usual suspects) I called on this hose just said "We don't sell that", or "What is that?". The lady that answered the phone at O'Reilly said "I'll order that for you and it will be here tomorrow. And, you don't have to buy it if it's not what you want". So, I was very happy with the parts and service I received.

I used the same Gates hose as you did, which I purchased at O'Reilly. They were the only store willing to order this. It came in a 6 foot length, which was perfect. My car also had the plastic elbows with the small outlet on the bottom. They had a roll of rotted foam where they were connected to the diverter box, and the small outlets were covered with a rubber cap that looked factory. Since these elbows didn't seem necessary, I connected the flex hose directly to the diverter box without using them. It does seem curious to me why they would manufacture and install these parts with no function.

I would like to temporarily remove the relay panel on my 260Z in order to access the seatbelt interlock unit. I found two screws on the lower part of the relay panel into the kick panel and removed them. The panel came loose, but apparently has another screw higher up which I can't seem to get to. Could it be under the intermittent wiper relay? Does anyone know how to get to this screw, or have a picture of the relay panel removed?

I like those, good idea!

Thanks to the people who contributed to this post, my driver's side window rolls up and down normally for the first time since I've owned the car. I took the regulator out, bent and hammered the arms back into the correct shape, and it works great! Now to do the passenger side, apparently it had the same gorilla on the window crank.

I'm sure the only way to damage the arms is to use too much force when rolling up the window. This was done to my car before I got it, so the windows never worked properly. I had no idea what the regulator arms were supposed to look like, until now!

Well, mine is not fixed, but after reading this post and looking at your pictures, I inspected the arms inside my doors without removing the regulator. Sure enough, they are bent! This issue has bothered me for quite some time, and had no idea what to do. Next, I must get the regulator out and do the vise and hammer treatment. Quite a relief just knowing what to do.

I think this post has really helped me a lot, bent arms are the cause!

I hope you can get a definite answer. I have the same problem.

Good idea, I didn't think of that and used a grinder to make a notch in the mount for standard hex socket clearance.

Yes, the indentions in the body were covered by the rubber bumper ends. But, since the 280 doesn't have the indention around the bumper, it might hit the body.

20181201_103822[1] 20181201_103803[1] Here are my early 260 bumpers pushed in on my early 260. They don't interfere with anything, but I have no 240 bumpers or 280 body to compare. See my post below for pictures.

I have an early 260z, and the bumpers look the same as a 240. The reason they stick out further is there are small shocks between the bumper and the frame. I'm sure they could be adapted to a 280.

Those caps look exactly like the ones I bought, and they seem to fit the same way. My wheels are the mesh type, but the center and lip of the rim look exactly like yours. So, I am pretty sure they are Western, that's what I wanted a picture for. I think if I ever buy any more caps for these, I will shave them down like you did. They have been in the wheels for a couple of years, and I popped them off one time to change tires. No cracks so far. Also, I was sent a little "Z" sticker with the caps, but I didn't put them on yet. Thank you!

Nice idea, I have some 14 inch wheels I believe to be Western, and had the missing center cap issue. I did a pretty good bit of searching, and also found a cap from MSA that was a very close fit. I was able to push them onto the wheels with some effort, without grinding. Could you post a picture of your wheel and the whole cap? Thanks

Engine compartment looks amazing!

It's not leaking? Why do you want to remove it?

Thanks for posting the chart, very useful information!

Nice work!

They look very nice, and only 1000 dollars a pair.