blitzkraig

Bad ignition switch? I dunno, electrical drives me nuts:tapemouth

Without a doubt I'm going with Konig Monsoon rims on my Z. I was just wondering for those of you with 16x7" rims, what offset should the rims be? Most of the Monsoon rims I've seen have a 40mm offset.

Hehe...steve you just made my day with that joke. I wish he would really do that and someone would get it on video. Oh well....hopefully the Gropinator won't do too much damage to our state.

Well for the wet sanding process itself you'll need a good wetsanding block (ask someone for help in the store), and some 1000 grit wet sand paper. Wash your car thoroughly so there is no dirt on the paint! Get a bucket full of water with a clean rag. Soak the rag and use it to keep the surface wet while you sand. Wrap the sand paper around the block and go at it. Remember only to take enough off so that the surface is flat ;if the surface is shiny now, you can dry off the area you just sanded and if it is perfectly dull then you're finished there. Be careful around the edges because that's the easiest place to sand through your paint. Also, listen to the sandpaper as you're sanding, if you hear anything out of the ordinary like something is dragging on the surface between the sandpaper and the paint WASH THE SANDPAPER OFF. Little pieces of dirt can get in there and dig into the surface creating a nasty scratch. Once you've gone over the entire car, take it to a shop and ask them to buff it out. PS: If you have a clear coat then the stuff you sand off will be a clear to light gray, but if it comes off the same color as your car then either there is no clearcoat or it's single stage (most likely single stage). Good luck

If it's on the left of the middle mark then your alternator is probably not putting enough out to keep the battery charged. I'd yank it and take it to a local autozone or kragen and have it tested.

I'm assuming there should be a bleeder screw on the underside of the mastercylinder (or the side?). Anyway it's a screw with a nipple on it. The rubber part is a cover to prevent any small drops of brake fluid from getting on the paint, but those are usually long gone by now. If there is none on yours you could always use the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder (passenger side of tranny) which is where you bleed the clutch system from anyway. Good luck

Do you have an amp or volt guage working in the dash? If it's amp, check to see if the pointer is left of the middle line. If it's a volt guage, be sure it is around 13 volts. I think you can take the cable off and that might work too. My suggestion, shell out a few bucks for a volt meter, it's well worth the cost.

No kidding, there have been numerous times that I have wanted to take a baseball bat to my car, but a couple hours later when I get to drive her it's like nothing ever happened and she can do nothing wrong.

My turn signals didn't work either recently and I tracked the problem down to the flasher. Since the Z has two flashers (unlike old american vehicles), the hazards can still work but the turn signal flasher under the driver's side dash can prevent them from working. Not really sure about the rest of that. Good luck

I guess I'll be looking into new switches then. Thanks for replying, sometimes it seems like the question isn't important enough for response.

Hellllllllooooooooo out there!............Is anybody theerrrrrrrrrrrrrre.........therrrrrrrrrrrre hmph......guess not:sleepy:

I need a steering column headlight switch compatible with a 71 240z ASAP Email: blitzkraig@hotmail.com

I sanded mine off. Didn't really think anything of it since I'm keeping the stock components on the engine. Anyway, it's your car so make it the way you want it to be

Well my car is trying to fight me every step of this restoration. A little plastic piece inside the headlight switch on the column just broke so I need to get a new switch assembly. I'm planning on hitting the junkyards first so I was wondering what years are ok to pull from? Or by chance does anyone have a spare they want to sell??? Thanks:tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth

Yeah normally I like to keep as much of the car reworkable to stock as possible but I figure this headlight upgrade is well worth keeping for any owner. I wish I could go back and wire them another way but I already cut into the harness. As for the fuses....a couple years of driving classics cars and trucks has taught me to keep extra fuses and a flashlight in the glove box:D

So I've been told that the original 240z hatch vents were the worst idea for the Z car. The aerodynamics of the car were such that it sucks all the fumes right back into the cabin. So on later models the vents were on the quarters where the emblem is. Now I'm not as big a fan of the later 240z quarter emblems as I am of the originals. I'd like to weld up the hole on the quarters of my 71 and stick the original emblems on but I'm worried about getting suffocated by invading gas fumes. Does anyone know if this is what really happens or should I experiment with some duct tape over the holes?

So I installed some relays into my headlight system and the lights came out great! However, now my amp meter and temp guage are on the fritz! At idle everything reads as it should, but the second I hit the gas the amp meter jumps all the way to the right. The temp guage kinda does the same thing but at a delayed pace. I checked the system and the alternator is not overcharging, nor is the car overheating. I changed nothing but the wires for the headlights. Has anyone else had this problem with the relay upgrade or have ideas on this subject? Here's the article I used for the upgrade. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm

Got my new clutch hose in last night. I've been having trouble with the car starting right away so I changed where the negative cable from the battery bolts to the firewall and now it starts great. I'm also not reading any voltage going through the clutch hose. I don't really feel like moving the negative cable back to see if it was the problem. I'm guessing that when I was trying to get the car started that one time, the current was trying to find a better way to ground and the clutch hose turned out to be easiest for it for some reason. Anyway, back on the road again!:cheeky:

So I ordered new main jets and needles from Ztherapy. After comparing the new jets to the old ones I found that the old ones were very worn, leading to the rich condition on my polished 4 screws. So I put in the new jets, but I couldn't get the new SM needles to seat right. I believe that the clearance between the needle base and the hole in the piston is slightly too big so when I tighten the set screw the needle gets cockeyed and makes the piston stick. I decided to use the needles from my rebuild kit instead. Now these needles need a bit of work to get in the piston, but I've done it before. The first one went in fine with a set of vice grips (barely scratched the needle surface), but the second one snapped right at the base!!!!!! Now I have about 1.5 mm of needle sticking out of the piston and I can't get a good enough grip with the vice grips to pull it out!!!! HELP!!!! I don't want to junk these beautiful polished carbs just because of my stupidity! And while we're at it, is there a way I can get those slightly loose SM needles to sit right in the piston??:dead: :dead:

It seems now a days though that most small companies either get bought out or are smothered by the big corporations when they start making good money. I myself have a business plan for a shop here in Santa Cruz, but lack the money for the initial investment.......damn my car for being a money pit

I'll keep an eye out for it here in Norcal. And don't worry, there will be bitch slapping if I happen to see it here.

Yeah I'm really puzzled by it as well. I've been staring in the engine compartment for about an hour trying to think of what could have done it. I'm guessing my best bet is that it had electrical current going through it based on the smoking and burned rubber. However, the battery nor the starter wires come anywhere near it! I'll look at it again tomorrow when I wire up a relay system for my headlights, maybe I've had a blindspot in my vision today. Anyway, is there any good reason why all my stainless braided lines had 'FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY' stickers on em?

Holy Begeezuz! If I had a job that paid well I'd deck my Z out with all the CF I could get my hands on! Talk about flying! AND great gas milage probably!:stupid:

Hmmm...well I see the topic has degraded a bit. There have been some very interesting views and I've loved reading them, but I think unless anyone else feels obliged to say anything, we can stop this thread. Just want to say one last thing. Chris, you've made quite a few assumptions simply based on my views of the extremely rich in this country. I'm not going to backlash at you; just tell you I am not many of those things you have labeled me. Just do me a favor, get to know someone more before you decide you hate them. And btw, I'm not one of those people who spills coffee on themselves and sues; I think the person who did that deserves to be dragged into a back alley and shot for their own stupidity. Goodnight my friends