abas

Put a 250gto body kit on your z?

Could be a UK car then as they started coming here Sept 71. Guus, what's the story with HS30 1342? is it a car that you are looking at to buy? If its RHD in Europe then it pretty likely to have come from the UK. If the only bit that has no rust is the tyres than it DEFINITELY comes from the UK

Guys If it was a UK car it would be a 1971 at the earliest ( only 2 1970 cars were imported here). Can't put my hands on serial number info at the moment but I 'think' HS30 1342 would be too early for the UK market. To re-open the 'fraud' thread here I have seen at least one case of 'passing off' of a later car as an earlier car complete with bulkhead number changed. I also have suspicions about others, but I could be wrong. Not surprisingly it goes along the lines of it being cheaper/easier to dress up a rust free car than to restore a completely rusted out original which has an early VIN. And if the changeover has been done well it is would be very hard to spot.

Yeah, I mentioned Mike a couple a couple of days back:classic: No response whatsoever. What about Kyteler, you know the New Zealander who is not exactly backwards in coming forwards with his views

Not strictly relevant here but I understand that the really early fan clutch ( that goes with the metal fan) cannot be rebuilt as it doesn't have 2 halves that are bolted together and therefore doesn't come apart. FWIW Andrew

Ahem!!!! oldER :classic: I do feel much oldER now that Alfadog at 19 is 'not so young anymore'

NIce one. That certainly brightened up my day:classic:

A few more 'South of the equator' regulars to post yet? Maybe we'll hear from Zkid and Kyteler once the weekend is over. And how about the big cheese himself Mike Gholson? Victor, or should I say Dr Evil (" throw me a fricking bone here") :classic: Andrew

Zvoiture I could have sworn that was Oliver Hardy ( of Laurel and Hardy) in the middle of that picture. Here's one of me taken just after an apologetic frail old lady reversed into my Z:classic:

page cannot be displayed here Boo Hoo!!

The run up to Xmas starts early in the UK. Pretty much after Halloween or Guy Fawkes night (November 5th) you will see the shops decked out in Holly/fake snow etc with bloody Jingle bells on loop in the background. Xmas in Oz/New Zealand (in the Summer!!!) would feel a bit strange for us from the Northern hemisphere experiencing it for the first time. Does Santa wear shorts and a T-shirt.:classic: Surely he would get heatstroke wearing that thick red and white coat in the Summer down there.

Is this video shot in from the US? I haven't seen Mk1 Ford Cortinas outside Europe before.

that complete NOS choke/throttle setup that went on ebay recently for $530 I think had the round knobs. If someone knows who the buyer was maybe he would divulge the part number for it?( if it was still in the original packaging) Be interesting to see if it was the same number as MDbrandy's.

Alan Thanks for posting the pics of the hand throttle linkups. I was about to post a thread to find out it connects up, as neither of my cars had a throttle lever originally. regards Andrew

Kats Just curious, but what is the plaque on the centre console just in front of the choke & throttle levers on your car? regards Andrew

I only think the hubcaps would fall off if you have the really early hubcaps with only 17 'gripper' tabs on the back of the hubcap, instead of 40 on the later 1970 ones and then only if you were cornering pretty hard. Having said that, with the price of replacing the 'd' stlye caps reaching ridiculous levels ( I know as I've only recently managed to buy some), it is not something you want to leave to chance. Andrew

Kats I'd agree with Alan on this one. It seems 'accepted' that the very early cars had the rounded knobs which are therefore much more difficult to find. I have never seen a rounded throttle lever knob for sale but I have seen the occasional rounded choke lever knob for sale. I've just bought a throttle cable unit off ebay that has the more square knob. Probably correct for my April 1970 car. I don't know what came with mine originally as it did not have a choke lever knob when I bought the car. regards Andrew

Kats I look forward to seeing the rear deck on yours. As far as I can tell my April 1970 has the same deck as 26th-z's. I'll post a picture (if I can get my digi camera to work!!!) regards Andrew

Agreed but I and I assume many others do not have access to air tools. An impact driver at $10 is 'cheap'. For fairly 'beefy' items hitting them with an impact driver will not harm them. That includes z seat frames as I have been there. But I would not use one on unsupported sheet metal for instance. Would an 'air hammer' deal with a seized cross head screw? Wouldn't it chew up the screw head if you didn't hold it REALLY tight against the screwhead? The beauty of an impact driver is that it forces the screw bit into the head of the screw it is to hold and as such is ideal to remove seized SCREWS. I agree that for seized BOLTS an impact driver should be un-necessary. A breaker bar and socket ( or air hammer if you have one) is far better. Just my opinion. Each to their own Andrew

For clarification – impact driver looks like a fat screwdriver with interchangeable bits that go in the end – about $10 at a tool shop: you hit one end and it provides a twisting force to remove a stuck screw) Personally I think an impact driver is an indispensable tool ( and frequently the only way) for removing seized cross head screws, which I think is what Shoudt is dealing with. Perhaps I have misunderstood, but I don’t see how a socket set would help.

Do the ones from Classic datsun look exactly the same the originals? I bought some from somewhere else and they are 'close' to original but not 100%