Mark Maras

"To Serve Man". The very best ending to a Twilight Zone. Thoughts on Utopia. When I was young, I felt that way about old people. Anyone over thirty just didn't get it. Now that I'm almost seventy I realize that it's kids that screw up Utopia for the adults.

Cross firing.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

I'd never "bundle" plug wires the way I see in the pic.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Looks like an afterthought to me.

Just cause you can, doesn't mean you should.

I had one that had bonded the shoes to the drum. After a lot of frustration and no success, I screwed the lugnuts on flush with the stud ends and with the help of a 4 lb. hammer and several blocks of wood the studs came out. That allowed me to tip the drum back and forth and finally break it free from the shoes.

My old Mopar friend cleaned his 56 Fury lenses with steel wool and shot them with clear years ago. No adhesion promoter and they still look great.

The pot-metal? lock barrel seems like a good item to submit to an Aluminum 3D Printing Service to see if a group buy is feasible.

Windows 7, Chrome. My screen looks like Grannyknot's.

I haven't used Soft Seal. A quick search says it's for unfinished metal surfaces and dries to an amber color. Instead of the Soft Seal how about spraying the interior with a clear finish (epoxy, your choice) to add to the protection and not screw up the reflectiveness of the unit.

I'd wait to see the Doc. They're probably just flashbacks.

Been there, done that. I drilled a hole in the ends of the crack, ground a vee in the crack, preheated with a butane torch, welded the crack with nickel rod (I've also used rod for stainless steel) and buried it in dry sand to let it cool slowly.

I've never seen or heard of them. Do you suppose that they go in that indentation in the rocker alongside the seats in the 240's?

You didn't mention if you found any foreign matter in the rear float bowl chamber or the needle and seat. My thought on the front carb acting up is, it has now picked up some crud like the back one. I'd start by cleaning the float chamber in the front carb, reset the floats to the recommended level, reset the nozzles to 2 1/2 turns down, use a Uni-Syn to balance the carbs. As it's been running kinda poorly, I'd also change the plugs, and reset the valve clearance too. Basically, a complete tune-up to eliminate any other possibilities. It's also possible that the nozzles are sticking in the down position when the choke is off. With the choke lever off, reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzles. If you feel the nozzles move up, lube the outside of them with some lithium grease. It may start better, for now, by using no choke and part to full throttle to compensate for the extra gas.

I've either cleaned them or replaced them if the needle tip shows wear. The problem is likely crud in the needle and seat. Check the filter in the banjo fitting while you're disassembling things again. Have you made any carb adjustments since the problem started?

The U district was a fun place to hang out "back in the day".

I'm surprised it's that easy. A Bill of Sale as proof of ownership? Oregon DMV wants a lot more paperwork than just a Bill of Sale.

I've always used anti-seize thread lube.

I've used Mr. Gasket RTV for years. Probably the orange sealer that Cliff described.

Got to thinking about how I'd go about making one. I'd use several wraps of wire instead of the tape and heat the cable next to the wire clamp to spread it out.

It must have been another. I remember the tape and the 45` flared end. Same idea though. If I had a strut tube to clean out, I'd try this first.

@240260280z

I remember a fellow who made a long rotary wire brush using a length of wire rope (cable) to clean the interior of a piece of tubing. He taped around the cable about 2" up from the end and frayed the cable end out to around 45`. He chucked the other end of the cable in his drill motor and scrubbed out the interior of the tube until it was shiny.

It will probably work for a while but two things need improvement. The first problem is the wrong size connector on the chassis ground wire to the cable clamp. The weak link in that style battery clamp is the exposed, bare copper wires at the end of the main cable. The wires will start to oxidize very soon. The oxidation starts under the clamp, unseen. Replace the cable with one that has a dedicated ground wire. Probably less than $25.00 at your local parts store. You'll be glad you did. One less thing to screw with and another item checked off the list.