Mark Maras

This isn't a "normal" vibration. Most vibrations I've encountered started above 60 mph. 30 mph is very slow in half shaft or even prop shaft speed. This one does sound like something is bent.

Taking the prop shaft to a good shop is how I (they) found a little dimple dent in another shaft that had a vibration problem.

If you don't mind sharing, I'm curious at what speed the vibration occurs? I chased a MAJOR high speed vibration (sounded and felt like 500 lb. bee trapped in the car) in my 240 that started at around 80 mph. I changed the half shaft u-joints first. Vibration was the same. New prop shaft u joints cured the vibration. The prop shaft spins 3-4 times faster that the half shafts and is more prone to vibration.

I worked for an upholsterer a long time ago. When we stitched patterns onto foam back material we glued (contact adhesive) burlap to the foam so the stitching had something to grab.

The stock air filter would be my first choice.

My options would be to drill it or use a die grinder on the rivet head.

The GM HEI is a cheap reliable option. I've not heard much negative feedback about reliability. But before you consider my opinion, know that I still like points and a condenser. I like mechanical things.

I've experienced running out of power (no miss) when the fuel filter was dirty. The only time I've experienced a high rpm miss was cured with a new set of NGK plugs.

At 5000 rpms does the engine cut out (misfiring cylinders) or just run out of power?

I can't imagine the tangs got that way accidently but I can't imagine why someone thought that would work. If my memory is correct @siteunseen has dealt with float tang angles in the past.

These forests are Bigfoot country. Yeah, they're real. Not sure what you mean by "roll down my jets" but I raised my jets (leaned it out) when I got near 7,000' with my SUs.

The clue that it happens on an incline confirms fuel starvation. Along with a fuel pressure test a fuel volume test could isolate the problem to the carbs. Have you checked the last chance fuel filter screens in the banjo bolts on top of the float covers? Post #13 you mention the front carb piston being a little sticky and a minor problem with the rear carb choke. Are those working OK now?

I've run into this problem in the past. The clutch alignment tool I used was a bit sloppy. and allowed the clutch disc to drop down a bit before I tightened it. Trans wouldn't go in that last little bit. I loosened the pressure plate just enough to be able to move the disc into the truly centered position, tightened it down and the trans slid right in.

I'd first verify the input shaft fits the bearing

I'd look into UHMW plastic for the button. It's tough, durable and abrasion resistant. Curbell Plastics sells 5' of 1/4 rod for $10.09. That small investment would build well over 200 buttons and put you in the button business.

How about calling it an oriented strand steering wheel. OSSW or just OSW.

That's quite a bit of wheel rotation for the problem to be the brakes. I'd jack up a front corner, grab the the top and bottom of the tire and push on the top while pulling out the bottom, then reverse the direction several times. If you can feel any looseness take a look at the wheel bearing and check to see if it's just loose or trashed.

I remembered 20wt. being used but the oil just slows the piston rise during acceleration. With the butterfly open and the piston slowly rising the air speed thru the venturi speeds up drawing more fuel from the bowl.

California may be iffy too.

Welcome aboard. That's a rare find. You chose wisely.

That makes sense. What I've never understood is the reasoning behind heating the carbs.

I've never understood the reasoning behind heating the carbs unless it was to keep them from icing up in cold temperatures like my 521 used to do. The fuel is already pre-heated in a Z thanks to the routing of the fuel lines to the carbs.

I know little about the grounds on steering columns but I've never heard of using a bearing as part of an electrical circuit..

The parts are structural quality but that is assuming they're installed correctly. Good welds, rust protection, etc.

Next time get a bolt slightly smaller than the bushing id and stuff the hole with bread. Hit the bolt with a hammer and add more bread. Repeat the process until the bushing (or bearing) slides out. It really works well and clean-up is a breeze.