Mark Maras

So, Not knowing squat about AC, what other parts are needed to complete this system? No acronyms please.

Dave WM I'm not sure about previous AC. I'm sure that Sam,the fellow who is working on RedBird is very capable and would rather rebuild an orig unit than try this exercise in futility again. Zed Head Sam got the unit in but the radio sticks out about 2" Also on the first trial run home the AC blew cold but started warming up until it was useless. I don't know the miles, duration or ambient temperature but I don't think it took very long to stop cooling. Also, just for the record, I don't know much about AC, so if I sound ignorant, I am. Jai should be reporting in soon. We'll know more then. No answer on the 78 AC in Seattle yet.

Will a 78 AC unit work in the 76? There's an AC unit (I think is complete) on Seattle Craigslist post # 5746157056. Sent him an email. This may be the one that Jai @Redwing can use. $70.00 takes all. @Dave WM

You may want to check Craigslist, Seattle and Portland. There are a few up here that appear to be good, for a better price. If you found a good one, you could drive it home.

10 seconds? Don't give up so soon. Maybe you should take another look at it with this in mind. Greyhound Package Express is the cheapest way to ship auto parts. Hatch glass from Portland to Denver, $62.00. Oddly enough about the same price to ship a non odoriferous ___ tank (S.T.C. misc. auto parts) from Portland to New York. What else do you need besides quarters? The cost may be affordable. Keep an eye out for parts on Portland Craigslist too. If you find something you need, I'll see if I can buy and ship it to you for the cost of the part, shipping and a small donation.

Was the float adjustment a major tweak or a little one? Yet another thought, float pivot needles can get crusty. To operate properly they should slide and rotate easily in the float base and the needle bosses under the float cover. Anyway, It sounds like you're on the right track. One more question, Is it backfiring thru the carbs at any particular throttle position or RPM and what wt. oil are you using? Oops that was two.

Agree with the needle tuning especially if you have an A/F meter. Much more accurate than old school "reading the plugs". One of the things I love about SUs is, if you suspect the mixture is lean a gradual pull on the choke will not only tell you if it's lean but also give you an idea of how lean it is.. Madkaw The leaking (overflow) needle and seat in the offending float bowl will still need to be addressed. IMO, There's still something amiss in there. Unless the overflow occurred after a major float adjustment and the overflow stopped after another major adjustment, theoretically, I guess it's possible. but if the needle, seat and float tang are operating properly, logic tells me that there will be no overflow. no matter where the float is adjusted. If the floats were saturated the bowl would overflow but then you'd be flooding the carbs with gas all the time. Did you ever turn the mixture screws down to see where it ran good without the chokes?

Needle shoulder flush with the outside of the groove. Enriching the mixture won't cause the float chamber to overflow. That's a problem with the needle and seat. IMO, IF, (BIG IF) the floats are adjusted properly the problem is the SM needles. Many in this club have an opinion on them. Good and bad. I've always liked the stock needles. But your original description confirms that the engine is running too lean. Are you double dog sure the float level is correct? That's the most likely cause of a lean mixture at 2 1/2 turns down.

Interesting. The adjust is 8" on the 240's. A stretch of the imagination but is it possible you have a 240 pedal box in your 280? It could be, if your Z was originally an automatic. The problem did exist when you bought it. If that's true, I think you would need a 240 master cylinder. Anyone know what the difference in the pedal box and clutch cylinders from 240 to 280?

Haynes Repair Manual says the measurement is from the upper surface of the pedal pad to the metal surface of the toe board.

I've heard grumblings from people who have had their car repaired there. I think a million dollars a year spent on advertising may have more to do with his previous success and growth than real quality. Good commercials though. He comes across as very sincere and honest.

Yeah, I saw that one too. Those damned voices keep reminding me of it. At this time, the pressure is terrible It's only a few miles from me. I know if I go look at it, I'll probably buy it, but I don't know where I'll put it. That was how this post started. I took a break and ate lunch. When I came back and read what I'd wrote, I thought, "That's just sad." So, like so many other decisions in my life, I set reality? aside for a little while I went with my gut. I emailed him about my interest in it. I'll give him a call this evening. It'll be interesting to see how this plays out. I'm not going to force anything. If it supposed to happen, it will. Onward thru the fog.

Looks like you have an early 240 judging by the fuse block location. I believe all the shift knobs from the factory were wood with the shift pattern in the top. The extension on the muffler looks too long.

Interesting. I haven't seen that brand before. I guess I never looked at my orig, bearings. Googled NTN, it appears to be an excellent bearing manufacturer with a long history of quality.

Wow! Beautiful countryside. Those hairpin switchbacks must have been fun to drive. The stretch of highway in the 10th picture is interesting. It looks like one of the turns on a roller coaster ride.

I realize the car is for sale but have you priced fixing it? It seems a shame to part out a solid car with low miles. Parts are available. PM sent, I have the entire section (in orange) to repair it.

The carbs don't have to be removed. Do you have a manual (Nissan, Clymer, Haynes, etc? that deals with SUs? Any that I've seen have good information for noob's about caring and tuning SU's. BTW, these SU's are the simplest, easiest, most dependable carbs I've ever used and worked on. I was amazed at the simplicity the first time I worked on them. I would recommend getting a copy of the DVD "Just Su's" from ZTherapy. It goes into detail about them but for now a basic SU tuneup manual should be all you need. If you have any questions in the process, just ask.

Is the retainer ring fully tightened? I remember Cliff @siteunseen talking about how tight the ring was supposed to be.

Judging from your description of the problem, the engine is running lean when the choke is off. Giving the engine choke is richening the mixture. Places to start. Finish the complete tune up including adjusting the valves. Make sure the rotor is in the right position when the engine is on TDC, top of power stroke, check and or adjust the float levels in the float chambers and lube the outside of the jet nozzles. Start it up and tune the carbs. You could also throw a compression test in there too. These basic procedures will usually fix most poor running engine problems but if they don't fix it, you'll narrow down the options of what else might be wrong.

Win! Win! Win! Trans. does look good. I think you could hold the quarter panel for ransom. What a find. Please share any new-old info you find in the tech bulletins. There's always great trivia hidden in those.

Agree with the 1000 volts but you'd end up with a GT40 "Gurney Bubble" in your top.

$20.000, Hope you get more.

Is it leaking around the o-ring or at the elec. connections?

Excellent advice. I've never disassembled one to see what was wrong. It was always, out with the old and in with the new. Odd now that I think about it. I usually tear down my throwaway parts. I love reverse engineering.

If the car runs fine when it finally starts, it's probably not crud in the tank. I'd check the pump for pressure and volume flow. IMO the pump is weak.