Mark Maras

That shows my ignorance about electric fans. I've never dealt with them. Members here may have recommendations or check out the discussions over at HybridZ for advice. The only time I had an issue with overheating was solved by re-coring the rad and adding another row. When my fan clutch froze up I replaced it with a flex fan. Never a problem after that.

Will this be the final and concrete solution to your problem? No one here has a crystal ball as far as know and if they did they'd be looking for that unrusted barn find Z that most of us know is out there somewhere. The shrouded fan(s) would seem to be the best solution, IMO, but but there has been some discussion at HybridZ lately about upgrading the alternator when using double fans.

I hadn't thought of that. Removing a float bowl top and having a peek inside would confirm fuel evaporation.

3 - 4 psi should work on most carbs. A fuel pressure and fuel volume test will tell you if the pump is working properly. I'd also pull the floats and needle valves and clean everything.

I like the simplicity and driveability of the SUs. Weber's would be fun to fool around with but I'd want a Dyno to check the tuning of them.

No tools needed to remove parts, just give the cars a good shake.

@siteunseen Cliff has a Z with ceramic coated headers. As I recall, he says it does help.

I think electric fans may be a good idea considering where you live.

Prior to changing the radiator in my 71 240 I had similar problems in stalled and stop and go traffic. I found the best solution at that time was to turn the engine off until traffic moves again. The Z would restart with a click of the key so it was little inconvenience. Also, when in slow traffic, keep the rpms as low as possible. Every time a spark plug fires it produces more heat.

Have you ever tried driving with the hood unlatched to see if the problem reoccurs? It'd be an easy experiment. @rossiz louvered his inspection covers on the sides of the hood. I don't remember if heat was his reason for doing so but it looked good and I'll bet it lowered the engine bay temps.

I'd look into silicone putty. I've not used it but it looks like it would seal out water and be reversible.

I think I'd try to find a later hatch and keep the early one. Add it to your 401Z plan.

The only stainless I've welded was in the shipyards on one of the Army Corps of Engineers dredges using stick welding rod. I found it to be fairly easy to produce a good weld. I think MIG would be easier than stick. I also found the stainless rod works well on cast iron probably because of the high nickel content.

I prefer u-joints in the half shafts. They're not that difficult to swap and the half shafts (because they spin about 3 1/2 times slower than the prop shaft) aren't as prone to vibration if they're not perfectly balanced.

Anti-seize compound on the studs and axle flange will eliminate most of those stuck problems.

My limited experience with new rings in an old bore was years ago. I cleaned the cylinders (that still had light cross hatching), used the original pistons with new moly rings. That combination worked well for another 20+ years as a daily driver. I'd do it again.

No o-ring grooves. I'm much more primitive than that. The crushed o-ring and cap were what I imagined. Or maybe I didn't dream it up it and I don't remember the source.

I haven't seen anyone try it but I've thought about it many times. Surely somewhere in the world someone else is doing it and possibly selling a DIY kit. I've also toyed with a method of sealing worn throttle shafts that uses o-rings secured to the carb housing.

Some years ago one could clean up a branded Oregon title by registering the car in Washington, then back to Oregon. I believe they caught on to this some years back though.

At this point I'd disassemble the caliper.

Is the spring disconnected?

Along with pulling all the plugs, I open the throttle all the way during the test.

I saw another guy duck tape his tank to the front of a small concrete mixer. It worked well.

Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever. You'll be close.

just read your last post. You can try cold but steel bends easier when it's hot.