Mark Maras

I ran ATF in my SUs for decades and never had an issue with it. I suspect that one could tweak the mixture a bit and get ATF to work. Truthfully I don't know why it worked on mine. Perhaps because I am a bit obsessive when it comes to keeping SUs clean and tuned. I never had a reason to try anything else. I've seen many opinions on carb oil, I'd like to hear some input from people that have used different weight oils. Mark in Portland

I'm inclined to agree with all of you. Has anyone tried any of those rust preventers that run a trickle of current through the chassis either with or without sacrificial anodes? Some people swear by them, others swear at them. I'm assuming the supplied trickle of electricity is a substitute for the wet conditions that would normally drive the galvanic process. Testimonials, Anyone? Mark in Portland

Has anyone ever tried sacrificial anodes attached to the inside or outside of the frame rails to ward off rust? They could be made of zinc, magnesium or aluminum. In the shipyards they use zinc ingots cast with steel straps that weld onto the hull. They had to be replaced every few years due to the effects of salt water corrosion but on a car they should last a long time. Also, any thoughts about the use of cold galvanizing spray as a bare metal primer? My 74 S30 project will be going up on stands soon so I can finish opening my holiday present, Then I'll find out whether I got gold or a lump of coal. I've tried many rust treatment products over the years with dissapointing results. This time, it's going to be phosphoric acid to convert the rust, if I can't remove it, and a topcoat, as yet not selected. If possible, I'm going to include an anode to prevent new rust from forming. I'd like to hear anyone's thoughts about the idea or any products already out there that could be used as a sacrificial anode. Mark in Portland

Welcome.There's plenty of information here, as well as people who love to share it. I wish you luck and patience in your search,The amount of rust that you will have to contend with, will depend on the depths of your wallet, time and talents. That said, what on earth is driving you into Z addiction? If you think there is a way out, you are sadly mistaken. The term Z rehab is for the cars, not the owners, Think twice, It may not be too late....But if it is too late, a Z in the snow and ice can be great fun. they don't use salt on the roads here. Mark in Portland

Sorry for the missed opportunity. Have faith, another one will turn up. I mlssed out on a few before I realized that to get one, I had to have cash in hand and move on it before anyone else had the chance. Although I didn't end up with the 240 I wanted, I did find a 260 that has 92,000 miles, a little rust and 2 engines for $1350.00. I don't know how far you'll go for a Z but if the Pacific Northwest is an option let us know what you want and we will keep an eye out for one. Right now I know of a 260 in a barn south of Portland. Mark in Portland

Automatic vs. Manual transmission I'm going to try to be impartial, even though I despise automatic transmissions more than a prolonged toothache. I believe that driving a stick actually will make you a better driver. To drive a stick properly, you must anticipate your next action. As cars get easier to drive, more and more of the decision making process is delegated to the car. Don't believe me? Self piloting cars are the new techno goal. The texting, tweeting, cell phone talking drivers will welcome the opportunity to be driven by their car, and maybe they should be. It might be safer for the rest of us. However, I love a stick because I love the anticipation of what's next. The more you put into anything the more you get out of it. Not to say, an automatic Z wouldn't be fun, just that a stick would add to the experience for me and keep me much more attentive to my driving. Mark in Portland

Thanks everyone, Portland drivers don't seem quite as bad as I once thought. they are generally courteous but they think using turn signals is a sign of weakness, Yes we have some that do the usual things but we have some that can get quite creative, Cutting across 3 lanes of traffic going 55mph without a turn signal while using the mirror on her visor to put on mascara to try to get to an off ramp that she had already passed. Let's stop with generalities and get down to individual incidents of stupdity. We all have tales about stupid drivers, Mark in Portland

The little clip that holds the window knob on can easily be removed by pulling the center of a rag behind the knob and pull the rag back and forth. the rag will catch the end of the clip and pop it off..Those clips in Portland are known as Dammit clips because you can't find them after removal. Mark in Portland

If you want refinment go with the 280. The 240s are a basic sports car. kind of like the difference between a Ferrari and a Lambo. Both great cars, but a different driving experience. I prefer the 240's but I'm a little eccentric. The 240's are easier for me to work on, nothing fancy, just a good basic fun car. Mark in Portland

Let me know if you need some help. We almost lost a 1st Gen. RX7 the same way. We rewired most of the burned harness. Everything works great. I also have an early 71 Z that has everything intact should you need anything. Have you thought about the possibility of replacing the burned wires yourself? It always looks like an impossible job, but just like eating an elephant, it's one bite at a time. I recommend soldered connections and shrink tubing. Break it down into single wire repairs and reference a good wiring diagram. You can do it. Mark in Portland

There is only a small percentage of the drivers out there that truly love to drive. For the rest, it's just another thing they have to do to get somewhere on time. In all fairness, they have never had a Z experience, "They" don't understand why on earth anyone would choose to drive and work on an old two-seater especially with a manual transmission. Well, OK, Maybe we're a little "eccentric", But the fact is, we love to drive. The solution to crappy drivers is stay as far away from them as possible and play a prophecy game. Try to guess what the hell they're going to do next. You'll be surprised how well it works. P.S. If you time them right, freeway on ramps can be a lot of fun. Mark in Portland

Welcome This such a great opportunity for you and your dad. You have found the best Z addiction site. Everyone has plenty of knowledge and encouragement to share. Keep us informed about the selection process and get your dad on here too. Many of us got our first Z experience back in the 70s and love to hear old Z related tales. Mark in Portland

I've got a set of DGVs at home. I'll look tonight and get back to you. Typically tightening the mixture screws will lean them out. Mark in Portland

Pull the brake pads, Assuming everything is dusty, dry and looking good, lightly sand the pads & discs using 220 or finer sandpaper in a tight circular motion, The idea is to remove the shiny glaze and make it look swirly. The auto-parts stores have a product in a tube that you squeeze onto the back of the pads, It reminded me of Tool Dip when I used it. I don't remember the name but there are probably many similar products out there. Good Luck Mark in Portland

Now that's a repair that I like. Nothing to tear down, just another good reason to go fast. I hope it continues to work for you. What brand brakes did you buy? It might help some of us to avoid the potential problem. Mark in Portland

Before you start on the weak electical. make sure that any add-on wiring is from a fused source. I almost lost a 1st. Gen. RX7 that started on fire in the driveway because of a lousy wiring job. I would start by cleaning all connections, both hot and ground. I found that this alone frequently will clear up the electrical gremlins that plague old cars. If that doesn't do it then go at it with your multi-meter and start checking voltage at the fuse block and follow the wire to it's destination. Anything that is dim is probably a poor connection. Mark in Portland

Hi bajcsi I'm not familiar with the item called a timesert. Assuming that it is a thread insert. I'm guessing that the insert is leaking between the insert and the head. If #3 is leaking and #3 was repaired, I think you will have to redo the thread repair or replace the head. Anyone else with an idea? Mark in Portland

When you're finished with the electrical, adjust the valves & go through the basic carb cleaning, testing & tuning procedures. If you're not experienced with SUs, don't be afraid of them. They are the simplest carb I've ever worked on & you'll love the feeling of accomplishment when you're done. A quick compression test will set your mind at ease if you think it could be internal problems. Don't get discouraged, we all started out this way, these are learning experiences. Mark in Portland.

I must admit, I got a little excited when I heard the name Weber, In truth, I love SUs. I've never seen any other carb or carbs that will run trouble free for decades. At least, that was my experiece with them. Anyone interested in the Weber DGVs? Mark in Portland

Years ago my fan clutch locked up on my 71. It sounded like an airplane prop and robbed the engine of a lot of horsepower. My solution at that time was a flex fan. I drove the car for close to twenty years with it on and had no issues with it. Not original but a good solution. I likely still have the original steel fan if anyone is interested. Also, I'm going to be dissasembling my early 71 if anyone needs parts. Dan is using my old ashtray in his project. Glad to see it going to a good home. Mark in Portland

I just recieved my new round top repair kits from ZTherapy. Thanks Pam, Bruce & Steve. After trying the standard jet adusting methods a few times, the piston would drop until that 1/32" from the bottom. I tried adjusting it dozens of times to free it up. The last turn of the wrench would always cause it to stick. I doubt that this is new but I haven't seen it in any forums. Everyone let me know why I shouldn't do this if it works so well. Method: Needle-set to height Install the spring and round top with damper rod removed Loosen the jet adjuster nut Install the jet Using the choke lever, not the linkage, carefully check the alignment of the choke linkage to the jet. Adjust if needed. Then install linkage. While lifting and dropping the piston repeatedly, slowly tighten the jet nut until the piston slows or stops. Loosen the nut a little and using a non invasive item such as a wooden spoon handle put it down the oil reservoir hole and rock the piston back and forth all directions. Tighten the nut a little and check piston drop. I got mine centered on the first try. Mark in Portland

Welcome Gearman50 As you will soon find out this is the best place to discuss all things Z. Please don't leave us in suspense, tell what you have and your plans for your Z. Mark in Portland

There must be some truth in that statement. I've never seen a Z with downdrafts, but I still have a set and I'm curious if anyone has used downdrafts and would like to hear their opinion. Performance is my main question. They may not be as good as sidedrafts but does anyone know for sure? Mark in Portland

Among the goodies that came with a 74 260 that I recently purchased are 2 down-draft carbs, air filters, twin manifolds and linkage. The carbs say Solex on the side but a reliable source says they are Weber DGVs. As you can tell, I know little about them. I hope some of you out there are willing to educate me. I'd like any info and opinions. I was told that one of them needs a power valve diaphram otherwise they both appear to be in good clean condition. Mark in Portland

Makes perfect sense. I got my kits from Z Therapy this weekend. When I compared needles, the factory early 71 needles were the long ones.[1/8"] The new needles[sM] from Z.T. were the same length as the ones I'm replacing. I'm betting that the old ones came from Z.T. too. The car lived 1 hour south of Salem. Anyway, it's time to learn how to get the nozzles centered so that I can hear this engine run.