texasz

Thank you, those really do look useful.

Update....I have brakes!!! Short story, I managed to get the Z up to the local Z shop and get some help. There were a couple things working against me, there was still some air in the master cylinder that I had not managed to get out and probably much more impactful was that the rear wheel cylinders were not adjusted out far enough to properly engage the drums. As he explained, if the shoes are not making proper contact with the drums then there is no pressure in the system and thus bleeding cannot happen...once explained it was like a DOH! moment as it made perfect sense. 😉 So it is back in my garage now and ready to move on to the next part of the project. Yipee!!

Can you please elaborate on this? What is it and why would someone want one?

@Zed Head, as I recall a welded diff is good for straight line racing...anything with turns and it is not so good.

Did some further investigating on this today. I attempted to bleed the fronts and was getting air then fluid flowing through the fronts. I then turned my attention back to the rears and still nothing...no air, no fluid. Since I was already back there I thought I'd crack the line before the proportioning valve (mine is in the rear) open a little bit to see if there was air/fluid at least getting pushed that far through the system. Unfortunately I was unable to loosen the nut, I did spray all of them back there with some penetrating oil before putting things away for the day. Everything in this area was bone dry though so no leaks there. I also felt around the fittings under the master cylinder and the distribution block under it to see if there was any leaking there and it all seemed to be good.

Field??? I'm starting to think that they are pulling crap off the bottom of the ocean! lol

When installing the master cylinder I test fit and adjusted the rod until it no longer depressed the piston at all when installing the master cylinder (it just barely touches the piston). This allows the piston to fully disengage/close when the brake pedal is released. Reason for just barely pressing the brake with the master cylinder out of the way was I just wanted to confirm that it was moving and I am not 100% sure that pressing it all the way would not have caused problems (after reading about people's challenges with the reaction disc I'm probably just being overly cautious). I've read that bench bleeding the master is not required, while many do recommend doing so. Not doing that would just push more air into the lines right? What about using the bleeders on the side of the master (as I described in my first post)?

I've installed new calipers, rear wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, drums, discs, rear brake hardware, braided stainless lines at all four corners, 8.5" brake booster, and 1" Wilwood master cylinder. No fluid seems to be moving! I started at the rear corners (checked both) and no fluid coming out when brakes are slowly pumped (by my son). I then moved directly to the bleeder ports on the Willwood master cylinder and no fluid coming out when brakes are slowly pumped. I can hear air movement in the booster. I unbolted the master cylinder and pulled it away from the booster just enough to see the rod and had my son barely press the brakes just to confirm that it is moving...and it is. What am I missing?

Also agree, it has always been my understanding that things like fenders, hoods, hatches, etc. are all interchangeable on the S30 (1970-1978).

Ok, I've got a question...I got a pair of the '72 or later lines and swapped them out last night. While swapping them the port on the bottom of the 1" Wilwood master cylinder closest to the rear of the car had a constant drip the entire time I had the lines off while the port closest to the front of the car did not drip at all. Should I be concerned about this?

Yep, mine has those also.

I ran BFGoodrich Radial T/A’s on a car in the past and liked them. I've been hearing good things about the Falken Azenis for many many years from people running them on their Zs.

The flat top carbs are stock equipment for the '73. Agreed, why not change them out unless you were going for a factory correct restoration.

Z Car Jail for sure!! 🤣

This is why I have ALWAYS LOVED this site, best, most helpful people and good usable help!! 😄 Of all the Z sites I've been on over the years this is still my fav!

There's no value in the certificate posted, the seller is simply using that as a marketing tactic. I have my Zs registered on both ZHome (Carl Beck) as well as the Facebook group (Phillip). Both are free, neither add one cent of value to the car. They are just as advertised, a registry to help preserve data on Z cars knows to currently exist or data of ones known to have gone to Z heaven. 😉 Great info to have available, I've used both in research my self. @Racer X, don't join Facebook just for this...no reason for that, Carl's registry has been around far longer (and both seem to serve the same purpose).

Awe #$%@#$^!!!!!!!! I'm so glad I read this thread! I just went out and looked at mine and I have that issue also. I did not even notice this and just finished installing the new booster and Wilwood 1" master cylinder...I'm glad I did not have time to bleed the system yet. Now I have to decided how I'm going to fix this. 😕 Has anyone had success in tweaking the stock hard lines to reach the correct hole?

Nope, it's completely gutted and the inner panel is cut out to lighten it...the entire back side is cut out to lighten it. This is posed in one of the Facebook groups and there are pix of the backside. Someone mentioned something about the wheels... I think I looks pretty good with them!

@Sean Dezart, that's great news and really not surprising to hear...there is rarely something that nobody has not already done. 🙂 Question based upon your post talking about the 6-2-1 header fitment...with my 6-1 header are there modifications needed? Really wanting to understand if I will have to take it to a shop or if it will be a bolt in installation that I can do (I do not weld). Are you taking orders now or waiting until you have the items in stock?

🤣

@Sean Dezart, that is great info for those with the 6-2-1 header...as I stated I have the 6-1 header (see pic for clarification).

OMG what the hell happened to that poor Z!? 😞

That's the way I recall several others describing how to do this job several years ago @Persimmon240

That seems like an easy change to reverse should you ever decide you wanted to. I'd go for it if that is what you want. Unfortunately I cannot answer the rest of your questions as all I have is series 1 seats so nothing I can go look at or take pictures of.

@Sean Dezart, already having the MSA 6-1 header I'm curious if your system would work for me (by system I mean from the header back including the JDM muffler)?