Inf

I bought my FSM last year from Andy Russel for $75 (1972 year with chassis/body in one volume) brand new. I haven't really done business with him since (he did however do a good job, I just have been dealing with midwestZ and MSA mainly). Not sure what his prices are like these days. You could try shooting him an email at z@datsundude.com Bambi is right about the FSM being pretty vague on certain things. It does however have a lot of useful photographs and some good prints of the wiring schematics.

This might be a dumb question... I've been looking through my FSM and I can't find anything about this part. It's not in the wiring diagram, the ignition diagrams or the emissions control diagrams. It's got one wire and its connected to the positive post on my ignition coil. This is on the drivers side inner fender. What is it?

I can tell you from first hand experience, the half covers look absolutely terrible (in my humble opinion). The big edge across the horizontal axis of the dash just breaks up the lines. The previous owner of my car slapped one on there and I am looking forward to the day I can have the dash restored professionally. The full-face dash covers (and someone correct me if I am wrong) will make it impossible (or extremely difficult) to remove the tachometer and speedometer without pulling the dash.

Well, the cold seemed to cause the putty stuff to gum up slightly. I was able to use some small screwdrivers to pry up the inner edges of some of the holes and pry it out from behind little by little. Now I just need to wait for it to dry off. It's a pretty humid day today so when I bagged it up and put it in the freezer, some frost developed in the few hours it was in there :stupid:

My only experience with courtesy was in person. I drove over and went in to buy some shift bushings last year, the guy behind the counter was very cold and unfriendly. Suffice it to say, I avoid doing business with them now. I would much rather take it to midwestZ whenever possible. I wasn't around when MSA was 'in their prime,' but ordering some stuff from them earlier this year did not leave me with a positive feeling. The job they did on packing my stuff was very poor and i'm amazed it arrived without any major damage.

Hrmm, I think i'll give that a try. There aren't any sensitive components mounted in that backplate really, just the power input leads and the negative trigger lead. If the ~0F of the regular freezer isn't cold enough, I will try getting some dry ice or something and make just the back of the housing cold. I don't want to make the whole thing extremely cold since i'm not sure how the caps and other parts on the main board will take it. I've been taking a ton of pics so I will probably throw a little writeup together if I get everything working.

And here is a picture of the inside of the tach housing. Note : there didn't seem to be any residue left on the housing from the glue/putty once it came free.

Today I started started on swapping out my 240z 4-wire tach internals for a 280z 3-wire. I've already figured out the wiring, so that's not the issue here. Have any of you guys found a trick to getting that second PCB off the back of the tach housing? In the tach from the 240Z it was glued on by some bondo-looking stuff, and I only managed to get the board off by using a punch on the hardened-putty stuff from behind (and shattering the PCB on the other side of the putty in the process). This isn't a big deal, since I am swapping it out anyway, but the 280Z tach has the same stuff holding the back board down and I certainly don't want to damage this one too. Attached is a picture of the stuff in question that was between the back PCB and the housing.

Find the notches on the dampner when the engine is not running and clean/mark them with some whiteout or something similar. They might just be filled in with road grime or something.

So I guess animal and inmate are the same person? Edit : also, my vote goes to MikeW's from the previous thread on the same topic

What year is the car? On my '72 240Z there is a connection on the front carb where a line connects to the diaphragm on the distributor. I'm attaching a picture of the connection, the line the arrows point to is the one that runs to the advance on the dizzy Purists, forgive me for using fuel lines for vacuum stuff!

I briefly did some research and found that Trust is mainly known as Greddy (http://www.greddy.com) here in the US. The US website for greddy didn't seem to have any stuff for the S30, or any products marketed as Trust. The Japanese website for Trust is http://www.trust-power.com . I poked around with my limited knowledge of japanese, but couldn't seem to find anything for the S30 other than an NA exhaust manifold, and a pretty nice looking stainless twin turbo manifold (but expensive! 190,000 yen). I saw a new (or maybe NOS?) Trust 432 style exhaust system on ebay a while back, and it had a pretty high base bid. Don't remember if it ended up actually selling or not. Edit : found it by searching the forums - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33630&item=2459181642 According to the seller the parts are discontinued. It would probably be cheaper to have someone local put one together anyway I would expect.

Thanks for the pic and reply Alan, this will be a useful reference. Andrew

Thanks for the reply v12horse, I was thinking of gathering together some pics and finding a decent exhaust shop to fab up something similar connected to set of 3-2 headers without the collector. This will help a lot. Pics of the system installed would also be very useful Thanks

I searched the galleries and couldnt find any pics of the 432 exhaust plumbing (based on keywords people put in). Could someone post a pic of the underbody with a good view of how the twin pipes are arranged? Thanks in advance

That just takes more energy. There is no free lunch.