jeanp

Well here it did cost me 100$ for the job i think this is not much regarding the fact that I add a price from a body guy and it was around 300$ color match blablabla... I knew about these guys but i was not thinking where the dent was that the job could be done that way. i went there for a dent on my pickup and i brought the Z hood with me. What a chance.

Today i went to see Dboss a guy here not far from Montreal that does body work withou paint in french debosselage sans peinture were the name come from Dboss So i took my hood to the guy and i am amassed with the results so i share So here are the pictures the guy did only taping and streching with rods from beind he did made 2 holes in the second layer of metal inside the hood to get his rods in that is it. took 1 hour and 15 minutes the last 3 images are after on the pictures ou cannot see the dent at all and ou have to be very good to see something even while washing by hand. for me this is like magic

oups should read will the piston get all the way back iin the cylinder

I understang changing you brakes for disk and 280zx calipers but i would not modify anything in there. I do not think these brakes are the type that fail much with all the parts in. if it is for weight cut the unused lenght of the bolts on the car, remove seat rails (they are suprisingly heavy). Use lightweigt wheels I think that rod is for adjustment and it is a kind of memory as the pads get tiner it keep them closer to the disk. I dont khow what will append if you remove this will the piston get all the way back in the piston

Yesterday i did refresh Brake and clutch fluids but back some fuel in he tank started engine (one of the fule hose feeding a carb was leaking) fixed it cleaned the garage floor of the mess and HOURA today was first drive (I love the sound feel and smell well you know) and had first ``what is that car`` of the year Love it!!!

Here are the after images

At start i wanted to change my diff for a VLSD that i found last summer And Z31 Axle that i also found last summer remembered the u joint problem that i had with my previous Z. And that i was starting to have on this one to. I had found modern motorsport stub axle and companion flange all i had to do order them. My brake were very durty so i figured i would work on everithing anyway. So here are a few before pictures So started by jacking the car on candles highest that i could Removed wheels, and muffler up to midle of the car Removed brakes no broplem`s there Try to get in touch with modern motorsport (no answer) post something here and was suprised that the guy has a superb web site but is very hard to reach found chequered flag racing does same stuff a bit more expensive but i needed parts I am not the kind of patient guy. By that time i also fount T3 control arms that i bought First battle was the spindle pins them they are hard to removed had to call a friend made that easy we did cut them off anyway i do not need them anymore. So he helped me to remove the diff easier with to guys it is heavy under a car for one person. So then the fun began Painted every part that were getting back under the car. clean the underbody removed every loose stuff underbody coating that was there from PO. did not remove every thing some of this was very well bounded. While there i remove the gas tank (suprise all the hoses that go to the expension tank where completely dry 42 yer of drinest. Brough bak the thing to metal and repaint. Rewashed everything and prep it Paint all the underbody from back to under the floor in from of the seats Rebuilt the brakes then i found a used but almost new set on ratsun $75 So i used those they are in much beter shape than the one i had. Called my friend to put back the diff under the car. we went to put the Z31 axle in the R200 vlsd diff. Keep on learning the yokes are to small. So i found a guy that could rebuild my noisy CLSD with the good part from the VLSD. cost me 90$ and i made a new friend this is a 60 something guy he as about 20 cars from Nova SS 1971 to MGB`s, Firebird`s when he buy a car he never sell it. He can repair almost anything as long as it is not front wheel drive ans it is naturaly aspirated. So realled m frien and we did put the diff under the car. lower control arms I already had installed stub axle and companion flanges. found that i need to push the wheel 1" out of standard to have these Z31 fit under there and that the sway bar was touching the outer rubber boot on the CV'S machined longer spacer paint cook the paint. So what i did today I did put back the muffler under the car Put the battery on charger 2 thing left to do (for now) put fluid in rear brakes And have the car aligned. Wait for shorter Z31 Shafts from DSS (i can drive the car while i wait) they call for 6 to 7 weeks of delay.

Remove the to short link kit, Machined two longer spacers (paint them) clean the car as it was in the garage all winter and i did lot of parts sanding and lots of dusty work under the car. Got some octane booster some brake fluid almost ready for action if the spring can finaly get here.

There is a guy in montreal looking for somethng to start with i saw that on Hybrid Z in the forum where you present yourself Bonjour from Montréal, Québec! - New Members Forum - HybridZ maybe he will be interested.

Personaly i wouldnot pay much for th first one I had sold it 22 years ago and it was already a rust bucket So i prefer the one i have now. It is in greater shape.

nothing is easy in that rear end resto. now that i figured a way of using my 300zx half shaft without braking the bank installed the link kit i know that these early S30's are not straight it apen that one sid on my car left swa bar touches CV rubber boot i will need a bit of custom fitting again. at least i am almost done

For anyone who read this, I called the guy that sold me those CV halfshafts cause they are exac same lenght from flange to flange so lenght from diff to companion flange are exact same. but yokes are 1/4 inch different. I dont know how this fits on a 300zxturbo but i know it cannot be direct fit on S30 as some would say here and there on the internet and swithching left to right will do nothing. only that the clip in the diff will be 1/4 inch to far to hold the yoke in place. So i am now in the process of having custom shatf made for those CV's. Z mod is a journey sometimes cost a little more then anticipated.

Hi Jon i know you are out of business with this to bad for me. And i got chequered flag racing axle and companion flanges but my z31t are to long do you have the lenght that they should be so i can have mine shorten ? Regards Jean-P

Thank you for these valuable infos I will do some reading on hybrid Z Note i also read on hybrid Z that the travel on standard 240Z half shaft is about 2" 3/8 witch is much longer travel then what you will get from CV shafts Regards Jean-P

Actually I had 2 goals in my mod. I was running a CLSD R200 that was noisy and had suffer from overheat. I needed to replce it I was tired of changing U joints So i found this nice VLSD on E-Bay and Z31 half shaft These shaft were sheaper then a set of Ujoint. Found modern motorsport stuf nerer could order them so found chequered flag racing axle and companion flange Then i found those nice adjustable lower arms at T3 When i went to rebuild the car i did put the Z31 in the VLSD oups not same spline So i did a swap kept everything from the VLSD except the diff itselfe wich i took from my CLSD so i got a CLSD with new gears berings housing and adjustment freshly done. And also if i would not have done the swap i would not have notice that the ring gear was mounted with to small bolts and everything would have break if i would have put power on it. But almost everywhere you will see that Z31 halfshafts are direct fit the thing is they are longer. So i wonder is there any place i can find info on lenght of the lower arms for this fit and I hope not to cut my rear fenders.

I am converting my rear end. After a few problem's with a VLSD R200 that was not fitting my Z31 halt shaft. Not same number of splines. Had my CLSD R200 rebuilt with the VLSD gears. Started remounting the back of the car and got into another headache. I have R200 with T3 lower arm's and Z31 half shaft. Chequered flag racing Stub axle and Companion flange. when i measure the distance between upper and lower bushing from originale lower arm i got 14 1/2 inches (center to center) For my Z31 to be at middle travel i need 15 1/2 inches right side and 15 3/4 left side. that is with no weight on the suspenssion. It looks like i have about 1 inche of travel on the half shaft so were shoud i start my allignement? Should i cut the half shaft's to be closer to the 14 1/2 ? Look like my tires are going to be a bit off body at 1 or 1 1/4 inch further out. Any advise Thank's

Here i a little post on a repair technique for cracked plastic panels. As long as you have all the pieces and you see only one side of it. Just take a piece of plastic I used plastic card that i have cause of my job. It could have been any plastic or even sheet metal. Use your prefered glue. I show the one i use. Just cut small pieces wide enought to give strenght. It is a good idea to glue the last piece overlaping the end of the crack. put some glue put the plastic pieces on the glue wait for dry that is it. you have 2 exemples. The hashtray cover came out fantastic you cant see the crack at all. The panel you can see a little crack but it will not continue to split. If you want you could paint with plastidip and this will make the crack invisible.

Maybe a little late but if it can help here is my 240Z with no wheel not strut

Well today did nothing, But lately i did remove all suspension, break, Driveshaft , muffler just to have room to work. then i fidured that i would look at my gas tank while you are there so removed it. Removed every layer of paint, undercoating and surface rust on it. painted the tank replace all rubber hoses. repainted the straps. did a refurb on the 280zx brake calipers that i have (then a week or so after found a brand new set on ratsun. that i bought for 75$. Bought T3 lower control arms, and broke a tooth last week had it repared on friday so could not get the 2 bushings and bunch of bolts and nuts that are waiting for me at the warehouse in Maine. So i will not work on the car today or tomorow. But i am ready i got every parts. It will be VLSD R200, Z31 CV's, Chequered flag racing Axles and CV Companion flange, T3 lower arms, Urethane Bushing, 280zx Brakes, tokico suspension. I will post pictures when i am done. By the way thank's to all of these very helpfull posts that i looked at while disassembling. Note that this is just the start next year i will do the front.

[quote name= Here's a great site on this topic' date=' parroted from Tony D: Information related to bolted joints ««i did a quick look on the thing looks interesting i will certainly read all. Note that the question is more like who does and who dont consider the difference and when not specified consider dry torque??? Thank's for the link keep on learning There are a lot of chart for torque by size and bolt grade with both values but look at let say Haynes manual there is only one value and i did not read where they say if it is dry or wet torque. so normaly i consider dry torque so i will reduce the torque a bit.

[quote name= Here's a great site on this topic' date=' parroted from Tony D: Information related to bolted joints ««i did a quick look on the thing looks interesting i will certainly read all. Note that the question is more like who does and who dont consider the difference and when not specified consider dry torque??? Thank's for the link keep on learning There are a lot of chart for torque by size and bolt grade with both values but look at let say Haynes manual there is only one value and i did not read where they say if it is dry or wet torque. so normaly i consider dry torque so i will reduce the torque a bit.

Just to see who does and who dont? If not do you decrease at all or not at all?

Ok with this kind of rust nothing will do. The damage is done. there will be no magic you need a big fix. But for your info i bought a accent 4 or 5 years ago for my kid. it was a 2002 model or something like that. We did look about 20 of these before buying. and the one i bought was treated yearly at 'antirouille a l`huile metropolitain' witch are specialist in appliyng anticorosion oil treatment on cars. After 2 or 3 cars we checked we already had spotted the critical areas of rust and that car had no rust at all. Body wyse it is still in good shape. So i think this is not a coincidence. To go everywhere in the cavities they use long hoses that finishes with a kind of octopus end. They do so many cars they may garanty body rust even if the car was not treated for 2 or 3 year after it was delivered first time. and also they know that some cars may be delivered with rust already eating them on the dealer terrain.

Sorry for that John but In Canada we are more likely to get rust on anything then you are in California and RUST CHECK have a product that will spray on. it will slow the process of rust for sure. If you only have surface rust it will definitely help. The further the rust is in the metal the less it will help but it is formulated to go throuh the rust to get to metal so it wil stop the rust. Do not use WD40 as rust prevention and/or for lubrication purpose it is kind of a liquid wrench use it to loosen stuck parts then wash it off and lubricate. And for visible and reachable areas check POR15 on google. It is paint and this stuff is good applied as directed it will not peel or crack it will stay there for very long.

Ok sorry guys i just found this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/47542-aftermarket-rear-adjustable-control-arms-one-best-design-material.html but i would appreciate any input anyway