EuroDat

This might help you identify your 5 speed. Looks like a wide ratio from a 280Z or a 280ZX 2+2 most probably.

The californian models were fitted with a Cat. Thats why they need unleaded and the floor temperature warning light. The other difference relating to the Catalyticconverter/unleaded theme is the sticker on the underside of the hood. Califorian sticker has, in big letters, "Catalyst" sticker p/n:14805-N4800 and the other 48 states have "Non Catalyst" sticker p/n:14805-N7600. Main difference is the CO emmisions. Cal = 0.5%. 48 states = 1%. Mine is Californian, and I have seen a couple of Non Californian 280Z without the catalysator and all Californian 280Z I have seen have them.

All to do with the catalytic converter. Leaded fuel will damage the catalyst. The catalytic converter will also generate a lot of heat, therefore the floor temperature warning light. As far as I know, they started using cats in California as early as 1975.

If your transmission is noisy, you might want to look into trying the GM friction modified tranny oil. Its mentioned in post 7 of this thread. Nice 280Z. Welcome to the club.

The later proportionjng valve has one too. Im not sure why the made them like that.

Sad. He seemed fairly calm about it, after realising he was alright and not injured. I think I would have invented a threw new words once I got out and seen the car.....

Im with Chickenman on this. Couldn't they think of anything better than tape......

I don't think two part pu would hold up to the stresses on an engine mount. The pu bushes you see in kits is a blended nanoclay-modified PU blend. Can't remember exactly, but it's a little different to what we home hobbiest use, me included. The engine/diff mount insulators are originally HNBR. Nissan uses HNBR and noted in the price. The NBR aftermarket units are a lot cheaper, but will sage much quicker.

My old mount didn't have much movement in it. A litle less than whats on your video. I noticed the difference when I sat it next to the new mount. It had sagged a lot over the years, which is probably what yours has done. The original nissan mount are not cheap, but the quality is very good. I would not go with PU bushing set-up. It will transfer a lot of engine noise/vibration. http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/11320n3000

Couldn't help it, I was bored during the commercials.....

Top tranny is a F4W71B 4 spedd and the lower is a FS5W71B 5 speed. Can't really tell if the FS5W71B came from a 280Z, 280ZX 2+2 or the later close ratio versions from the 280ZX NA coupe.

That would be nice. I think there are a threw of us with pu bushings that would like to go back.

A new form of Ransomware? Im surprised they don't have a bit coin method of payment. I'm glad I have always uploaded photo's directly into the thread.

If someone played with the adjustment of the AFM, you can calibrate it by using the coke can method. Here is a link to the Atlanticz website: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html I had problems with my TIU and ended up changing it to a 4-pin HEI module. It use to work perfectly and once it warmed up, say after ten to twenty minutes, it would start playing up fierce and left my parked on the side of the road. I sprayed it with a can of contact cleaner to cool it down and the problem would go away for ten minutes or so. This thread explains what I went through and it's also in the download section of this site. Section 9 in the download file has some tests you can do. It wont find a problem that happens at random, unless it's happening while you are testing. Goodluck searching.

Here is the leak test procedure I did on mine a couple of years back. It's good to eliminate possible causes. I know you replaced a lot of items, but some of the parts these days are "remanufactured" items and the quality is sometimes lacking. Btw: You can not remanufacture 280Z injectors. All you can do is change external stuff like the inlet filter and hose, and run them on a test unit with special cleaner. Not all aftermarket parts are new parts... Instruction - Fuel Pressure Test 280Z RevB.pdf

Good to hear you solved it, all be it with another unit. It's a pitty the kit is so challenging to fit and get working right.

No need to go to another site, you can also download the FSM for this site too. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/ Wow. Stand back and throw money at it. I tried that once on an Escort. In the end my pockets were not deep enough and I had to resort to diagnosing the problem and then fix it. I say that jokingly now, but it cost me a lot of money for an eventual $30 fix. I can imagine you have spent a lot on the parts and the problem is disappointingly not solved. Most people have trouble with running lean. What a lot of people call ecu drift. You need to start diagnosing stuff and cross it of the list. The things you can check, for starters, are: 1. Is the system holding fuel pressure. You changed the injectors and the csv, but you can't be sure one or two (new or refurbished?) Injectors are not leaking or sticking. I wrote a test procedure on a thread here somewhere. Ill try to find it and post it here. 2. Check the temperature sensor resistance at the pin 13 & 5 in the ecu connector. Check that with the FSM and the 1980 efi supplement (bible) on this site. 3. Check the ignition for good spark while cranking the engine. You can do tests on the ingnition, but a faulty tiu is a process of elimination. When you do tests, write down what you do and the test results. People like to see figures, it also helps with feedback.

Tomo, Im not sue what your problem is. Are you saying you have 40 degree advanced at idle? The way I find TDC is to make a tool out of an old spark plug. I punched the ceramic section out and tapped it out with an M10 tap. That way I could use a section of M10 threaded rod (with the end nicely rounded). Rotate the engine until you see the piston (through the spark plug hole) come up and start going back down. Install the tool and adjust the M10 pin until it reaches the piston. Marked the balancer and rotate the engine forward until the piston comes back up and touches the rod again. Marked the balancer again. Exactly in the middle between those two marks is TDC. If that does not line up with your notch in the balancer, then your balancer has slip and you should replace it. I have never tried to turn the engine by using the alternator. I doubt there would be enough friction on that pulley to stop it from slipping. Your transmission in Drive or Neutral should not make much if any difference when turning by hand. The drag you are feeling could probably be just the oil pump in the transmission. Here are some photo's of my distributor. Mine works perfectly were it is set-up.

Hi Captain, I am having this discussion spitronics as well. The ecu generates an alarm if the voltage doesn't reach 0.5vac. It will start an run, but it keeps genarating an alarm every time you start or if it goes above 0.5 and goes back under. It's not absolutly necessary, because when I crank the engine the fuel pump runs and I can hear the injectors pulsing. Everything appears to be doing what it should do. Im just trying to get it solved while waiting for a new coil driver. I fryed a HEI module when I modified my TIU. So it seems to be a habit of mine. Spitronics also have a whatapp group. That is handy, because you just hit record and explain your problem, leave a message or a photo. I even managed to help someone with a wiring issue. Thats surprising since I am a beginner on these systems. About the pickup coil. I have checked all three pick-ups (2 spare). The new LX-507 is measuring 724ohms at room temperature and the old original was 708ohm. Can't remember the value ot the third one, but I have not used it. Both were adjusted to 0.3mm and were generating 0.35 to 0.40vac with the occasional 0.45vac peak. The new unit is in the car now.

I think the coil driver gave up through my own doing. Its a combination relay and coil driver and I connected the relay section wrong for a brief second, but like all HEI modules etc, they don't like it. It still worked, but gave up after a minute or so running the car. Because the Spitronics comes in module form, the Coil driver is an external unit and lucky for me can be replaced for €15. I am planning on using one of my spare HEI module to amplify the trigger signal. That should clear all the error messages Im getting from the pickup. Just waiting for a new coil driver to turn up. It's now in Londen, and probably here early next week. Project costs: I kept a note of all the costs so far and its now at €771. Add another €26 for the combo coil driver including shipping and it will come out at €800. That is about $900. Ill probably go over the €1000 before Im finisded. I still want to tape the harness once all the bugs are out, make a new mounting bracket for the ECU so the kick panel will fit correctly and then odd nickle and dime stuff that adds up along the way. I could have saved a little by using the original AFM temerature sensor and leaving the AFM in place. Releasing the AFM spring tension on the flap so it will be always open. Spitronics comes with an App for your mobile. I don't think it's available for Apple yet, but it works well on android. ECU Project.pdf

I made this list in 2013. It's the best I could find at the time when I was looking for a replacement ECU. I have a look on some back-up drive for the PDF file. It was a scan from a Datsun workshop manual. It did mention something about the Bosch unit was in the first 280Z and if needed could be replaced with the A11-000-051.

Just noticed, you have a Bosch AFM. Yes, it's all pointing to the very early 75 model. First four months of production I believe.

The bosch ecu came on the very early 1975 model. I think I have a datsun pdf file somewhere with it listed as being replaceable with the later version. It's a rare ecu and some people like them because it doesn't seem to suffer the lean running condition the later units can develop. I have four AFM's. One is a pre August 77 with all the pins, two are from ZX's and one was uit of a 78, I think it was March iirc. I must say, I don't have any proof the 78 was an original AFM, but all the later AFM's I have don't have the last two pins in the connector or the plug on the afm. That doesn't mean the factory just kept installing the full afm and simply didn't use the switch function until stocks were depleted. You can test it with a multimeter to be sure. Contacts will close when the vane opens. Can you check the stamp on the top of the manifold. You should see N42 or N47. If its an N42, with the double inlet FPR, the really early ECU and the 7-pin AFM. Looks like it's from a very early Cal 280z. Here is a photo of two AFM's I have.

I always get mixed up with the webbed and non webbed manifolds. Did the N42 have the EGR. I have seen the N47 non webbed with EGR, so it could still be an N47. Its definately pre August 1977. The fuel pressure regulator gives it away with two inlet and one outlet. The later version only has one inlet. I can just see the last two pins in the AFM 7-pin connector, which means it has the fuel pump switch. A photo of the ECU sticker would be nice.

A quick update. I have been buzy, but not making a lot of progress. The O2 sensor is fitted and I calibrated the air temperature, water temperature, map sensor and tps in the ecu. The engine started and ran for about a minute and stopped. When I checked the components, I found the coil driver wasn't working. How did that happen? It took me about 4 hours playing with the system and swapping components, but I found my problem is in the trigger coil in the distributor. It produces about 0.35 to 0.45Volts AC and the ecu needs between 0.5 and 1.0 volt AC. Thinking about my options. 1. Find another model trigger coil that will fit in the distributor without too much modifications. 2. Go to a 60.2 crank wheel with wasted spark. I was planning to go with a bosch 3x2 coil pack 0 221 503 02 later, but I could fast track that project. 3. Use a HEI module to trigger the ECU. I might try this tomorrow and see if that cures my problem with the trigger. Also need a new coil driver. Luckely they only cost €12. Hope to have the replacement by the end of the week.